jokaankit

So even though the bellows boot is torn, the play isn’t at the ball joint of the inner tie rod. The outer tie rod end is easily twistable on the driver side. If my clunking and movement is further past the inner tie rod and originating in the rack and pinion it means the rack could be shot? Is there a way that the play could only be with one side if thats the case? No PS fluid lose sure is curious. Only thing I haven’t checked is steering link/u joint, I don’t have steering wheel play so I don’t think thats it.

Oddly the play is on the 3&9 o clock position and the movement causes the other wheel to move a tiny bit. Trying to move the wheel on the passenger side is much harder and moves less. I haven’t lost any PS fluid, and the inner tie rod boot on that side is ripped and covered in gritty grease. I’m just not sure if the rack is shot or only the inner tie rod and LCA need replacing. The outer tie rod ends move snoothly.

Is replacing the front LCA doable with a basic set of tools, borrowed fork tool, spare hardware? I would be changing the outer tie rod as well. I’m at 220k miles, not sure if I should change out the right side as well. I’ve got a bushing clunk, and a very rare bind initiating a left turn (no leaks, changing fluid is hit or miss). 2010 Edge sport. I’ve seen some of Mact’s video on changing it, but boy did it look like a lot of work. Doing it on jackstands looks like a pita. I have to check the bushing holding the r&p as well. A major motorcraft parts supplier is a block from my home so getting replacement parts is not an issue.