Decojuicer

I ended up picking up a new hub and bearing from a local Auto Zone. I would rather buy from a local business, but not if theyre not going to stand behind their products. Ive actually been picking up a lot of the parts that I need for other things from a local salvage yard. I wouldnt use those parts for steering, suspension, or brakes, but I got a driveshaft, exhaust, and cooling fan all for well under $100. The windshield is next. Thats only $35.

No. In fact, last year when I replaced the engine, I ended up having to replace that wheel bearing. It wasnt bad, but I need to replace one of the lug studs, and to do that you have to press the hub out. The shop that sold me the part is a local place, and they pushed me to buy the $60 bearing because it had a 5 year warranty. When I took it back to them yesterday because I didnt have my receipt. Even though they entered my name and number into the computer for warranty purposes when I bought it. The shop that pressed it in for me is a local place too. They said that all of that stores records are computerized, and that it sounds like they just dont want to take responsibility for their crap product.

Im pretty sure that this bearing is going to have to be replaced.

It turns out that the spindle nut was incredibly loose. Im not sure if the bearing was damaged or not. As of right now, Im going to retighten it to torque, and then check for play in the wheel again. I may not have to replace that bearing.

Last year, I put a used engine into my 2010 Edge SEL. in order to activate the warranty on the used engine, I had to install a new timing set and water pump. It wasnt easy to do, and I cant imagine trying to do it with the engine still in the vehicle.

For about a week, my 2010 Edge has been making a fast clunking noise when I turn the wheel left. And kind of a metal on metal noise when Im driving. I put it up on the jack and the wheel has a ridiculous (dangerous) amount of play. The tie rod ends arent moving, and neither are the ball joints. I replace the wheel bearing last year, when I put the new engine in. Also, my brakes have been really soft. Heres a link to video that I took of the hub. Let me know what you think.

Im having the same overheating problem, and the same problem with the fan. Luckily, a local salvage yard has a low mileage replacement for only $27. And someone was kind enough to already take it off the vehicle.

ROFLMAO!! I don't think I'm that good. Hahaha I got the alternator from Advanved Auto Parts, and it is under warranty. It's just a giant PITA to replace it. I'm going to throw the code reader on it tomorrow.

By the way, thanks to everyone who offered suggestions and helpful tips during this project.

It felt great driving it home from the dealership. However, the battery light came on about halfway through the 7 mile trip. It's a brand new battery, and I replaced the alternator about 3 days before the car went down. A quick Google search suggests that the problem may be that the alternator has a module in it that wasn't replaced when it was remanufactured. Which means that I may have to replace the alternator...again.

It turns out that it wasn't the PATS. It was a loose nut on the starter solenoid. And the power steering pump is leaking from a bolt that the Ford mechanic said that I wasn't supposed to take off. Apparently I broke a seal. It's for the return, so it's not under high pressure. I'll pull it off tonight and put some Permatex on it and see if that solves the problem. If not, I'll replace the pump on Saturday. It did start though, and sounds great.

Well, the bolts on the power steering pump were all tight ( I got an 1/8 of a turn on one of them), and it still seems to be leaking. I guess I'll just ask them to check it at the dealership tomorrow.

I already tried wishing really hard, and that didn't work. Fortunately, I have roadside service through my insurance, so I guess that I'll just have it towed in. I'm going to give it one more try to fix the power steering leak myself. If I can't get it tomorrow, I may just see home much extra the dealership will charge me to tighten those connections up.

I contacted the dealership today. $100 to have the PATS info reset. On top of that, I have big hands and forearms, so I can't get to the power steering pump to figure out which connection is loose to fix the leak I have. One step forward, two steps back.

From my understanding, no. The key just has to be in the "on" position.

I just bought this today.

I checked, and yes, the PATS security light IS blinking continuously without the key in the ignition. I also took a picture of which lights stayed on when I turned the key to the on position. The check engine light is blinking. I assume that's because I drained all the fluids.

I'm not saying that a dead battery is impossible, but it is brand new. I didn't look for a blinking red light anywhere. I'll check that in a bit.

Everything is back together, but the stupid thing won't crank. Not even a little. It's acting like a bad starter.

That green wire connector is a power steering pressure connector. My Ford dealership has a catalog with all connections broken down by the amount of wires, and has pics. Now to get it plugged in.

I Googled that, and it doesn't appear to be that connector. It doesn't have any markings at all, except for the word "push." That leads me to think that maybe it's something aftermarket, like maybe something for the remote starter.

Mac, you were 100% right. I found it in less than 10 seconds. I love your videos, by the way.

Never mind. I get what you're saying. I think you may be right. I'll check on it first thing in the morning.

So you believe that I've got it upside down? It's very possible.

Ok, I'm almost done with this job!! I'm just putting all the wiring back in place, but there are two connections that have me puzzled. The first is a big connector that seems to want to connect between the cooling fan and the engine. That's where it naturally wants to lay. I can't find the other end though. I seriously don't remember taking it off. The second is a thin green wire that seems to go back toward the firewall. I can't find anything to plug it in to. Does anyone have any ideas?