Decojuicer

The engine is back in!!! One minor problem (of course) - while pushing the engine under the car, I forgot to take the dipstick out and snapped off the head of it. Fortunately, I still have the old one. But getting it out could be a pain. My options are, a.) use a dowel with a bit of super glue on the end and try to pull it out, b.) use a small drill bit and drill into it and try to pull it out, c.) remove the valve cover and pull it out that way. I'm going to try the drill method first.

I'm getting very close to the finish line. The engine is put back together, and the transmission is inches from being back on. I just need another set of hands to help me line it up. I'll also need help when I mount it back in the car. Luckily I have some help coming tomorrow. Hopefully I'll be driving it by Thursday night. I little road trip might be in order, after I get the wheels aligned.

I did some Google searching and the consensus was to change the oil as soon as possible. The water would burn off, but the glycol could be an issue. I put the plug back in and ran a liter or so of water through. If there's coolant at all left, it's probably less than a teaspoon. Once I get the engine back and, and the vehicle running, I'll do an oil change after a couple hundred miles when it's hot.

I have another quick question that I'll probably find the answer to myself in a few more minutes. When I replaced the water pump, about 1.5 liters of coolant spilled into the oil pan. I've drained all the coolant and let sit for about 45 minutes. Is this something that I should be worried about? Should I pull the oil pan and clean it thoroughly, or is that little bit of coolant not a big deal? Or is there a way to clean it without pulling the pan?

Yeah, it was kind of expensive, and the post office screwed up the delivery. But I did get the water pump and timing chain replaced today. Now I get to start putting everything back together tomorrow. It's exciting to finally see the end in sight. I'm other good news, my refund finally came through today for the engine that never got delivered. Which is good, because I had to go buy ANOTHER couple of tools today. Lol. Hopefully I'll be driving the car again by next weekend.

I ended up just ordering the tool. Why not? In for a penny, in for $1000 worth of new tools.

After watching a couple of videos, I realize that I'm supposed to have a Cam Tool Set (OTC 6682) in order to change the timing chain. None of my local parts stores rent that tool though. Is it necessary?

I know, but it's apart now. That's the job I'm tackling today, getting the new engine prepped to go in. The old engine is out (came out easily through the bottom) and I'm hoping to get the new engine ready to go and attached to the transmission today. If I can find someone willing to help for a couple of hours, I may actually get it on the motor mounts.

What it took was a strap wrench, half a can of penetrating oil, and a two foot breaker bar. The only reason that I'm replacing those things is because the warranty isn't valid unless I do.

I'm trying to put a new timing chain on the "new" engine. The Haynes Manual says that I need to pull the crankshaft pulley off, but that bolts not moving. I've go my a 2' breaker bar, but I couldn't find a two pin spanner wrench, like the manual says to use. Does anyone have any tips on how to break that bolt loose? The engine is on a stand.

His video wasn't very clear, but I ended up doing it that way. I needed a smaller pry bar. Once I got the right tool and the correct angle, I was able to get it out.

I've been trying for a few hours to get the passenger front CV shaft out. The drivers side came out fairly easy. I just disconnected everything and gave it a few gentle taps. The passenger side isn't moving though. I've been through the Haynes Manual and that's no help. Likewise, I haven't been able to find any helpful videos on YouTube. Thanks in advance for any help.

I took a better look last night. It's actually plastic. I'm going to pull it off briefly today and see if it makes a difference. Worst case scenario, I have to put it back.

I'm not sure if it's critical to the structure or not. Here's a pic.

For future reference, the bolts are grade 8 M10 - 1.5. They need to be about 2 inches longer than the bolts that hold the transmission. Also, they're a pain in the butt to find. Next question, and I know this has been asked before in other threads, but I never really found a great answer. According to MOST of things I've read, the engine needs to come out through the bottom. That being said, I've noticed that after removing the upper and lower plastic cowls (at the bottom of the windshield) there is a piece of sheet metal that holds the wiper motor and a couple of other things. It appears that if I pull that piece of metal, there will be plenty of room to remove the engine from the top. Is there a reason that I shouldn't do this?

Anybody know what size bolts are needed to mount a 2010 3.5l engine to and engine stand?

I've got the new (used) engine on the way, and I've got most of the parts and tools that I'm going to need. My first question (of many, I'm sure) is, does anyone sell a universal engine eye lift bracket? The Ford brackets are almost $80 each. Does anyone have any suggestions?

I have a friend that lives in the area where they're located. He's been bugging me to come visit for a while. If I don't get the money back soon, I might have to go down there. ;-)

Thanks WWW. Here's the status of the project: I ordered a used engine for what I thought was a great deal. It turns out that I got ripped off by the company (AA Used Auto Parts out of Tampa, if anyone wants to know). The company never sent me any info on the engine like I asked, they never sent the engine, and as of today I still haven't gotten a refund, though they swear that they issued it. I found another engine, this one on eBay. The seller has a 100% satisfaction rate, has already sent me the VIN on the engine, and has told me that eBay and PayPal will stand behind the seller completely to work out any issues. Carfax showed that the engine most likely has less than 30k miles on it (24k 4 months before the vehicle was totaled in an accident), and it comes with a 1 year warranty. I'm ordering the engine on Tuesday of this week, and as soon as I order it, I'll start removing the old engine. I even found a used engine hoist for sale locally for $90. I'll make sure to keep a good visual record of the project with pics and video, and update often. I'm taking your advice and replacing everything that you recommended, plus a couple of other PITA items. Hopefully I'll have the car up and running within the next two weeks.

Thanks for your replies. Unfortunately, a reman isn't in my budget right now. However, a friend of mine who lives close to the salvage yard that I ordered the engine from was able to straighten out the situation and get me the motor I ordered. The engine only has 39k miles on it. I'm going to take WWWPerfA_ZNOW's advise and replace the block and all of the important parts. Thanks again.

Hi folks, I've lurked here before, but this is my first time posting. Here's my situation. My 2010 AWD Edge developed a severe knocking noise. I took it to a backyard mechanic that was highly recommended by two friends. He said that it was a rod knock, and that the engine would have to be replaced. I was in a hurry to get a new engine because of an upcoming vacation, but I ended up getting scammed by a salvage yard for $750. Now that I'm not going to get the engine in time to replace it before the vacation, I'm thinking about just pulling the engine and taking it somewhere to get it rebuilt. Most of the low mileage engines that I found (from places that appear to be reputable) run $1200-$1500. Would it be more cost effective to take my engine somewhere to be rebuilt? Would it last me longer in the long run? What would a fair price be for a rebuild? Other than boring out cylinders, is this a job that I could do myself in a reasonable amount of time (I haven't rebuilt an engine since high school, but I have a pretty decent understanding of the mechanics involved). Thanks for any help that you can give.