vega

If it's not available through the settings for trips on the dash, her IPC may need updated firmware.   

On 6/13/2023 at 8:51 PM, WolfgangJT said:

Hi all.  New here.   I have an Edge, but my wife has a 2017 Explorer.  I've noticed on a few Fords we've owned, there was a split 4 part screen trip summary, however,  I do not see that on her Explorer.

 

I saw several here seem to have had some extensive testing with Forscan.  Do any of you know if there is a way to turn this on in the IPC in Forscan?

 

Attached is an example shot of the screen I am talking about.

If it's not available through the settings for trips on the dash, her IPC may need updated firmware.     

3 hours ago, Sunnyorlando said:

@vegawhat kind of 'programming' are you referring to? The mods listed here with Forscan? Are you saying not to use Forscan with an ODBLink?

I bought the ODBLink MX+ as recommended here.

Thanks

True, I mean for flashing you should use VCM.  OBDlinks work also but way too slow when reflashing a module.  They will do the flash but once in a while you get a time out failure.  All failures I have encountered are when the adapter is slow and seems to time out.  When I try again with a VCM adapter, which is really quick,  I have never encountered a failure yet.  I have 6 Fords in the family so I do a lot of repairs.  

2.4.3 was a beta which was released, but then taken down due to abuse by novices who bricked certain modules.   For a while, you could request a link if you had an extended or life time license.    This 2.4.3 allows you to program modules.  2.4.7 is the latest but if you want to flash anything, it is preferred and recommended that you use a VCMII or VCMIII to do so.  I do and have had no problems

You can find download links to the 2.4 series here:  https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=19552

USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.  2.4.6 may cause problems and 2.4.7 will cause problems. 2.4.3 is best for now.  Remember,  Use a VCM not the Elm if you are going to program to be sure.

.

1 hour ago, 2FAST4U said:

-->To prevent getting into the car with a warm engine but a frozen windshield and cold leather seats, the best way is to turn them on before turning the car off. Then later on, when you re-start it the previous settings should be there.

Claude.

I think the IPC has to be flashed.  ie. firmware update to the module which you can't do with forscan that I know.  When I installed remote start I had to go to the stealership to have it updated.  Sorry, maybe someone else  can come up with a solution.  Good luck.  

Yes, 2 things of note.  One, you need the relay for it to work.  Two, if you get flickering, you will need inline capacitors.  Mine did flicker a lot.

6 hours ago, Ruben said:

So if i get switchback led and install to it. After i disable parking light does switchback gonna work? Have you tried it 

No, switch back will need extra wiring.  I put these in and they are really bright and work well on my 2015 gen , No dimness or any problems casue the come with built in capacitors.

 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0742R3GLT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

How about the thumping?  Is there some dimple or gouge in the old ones bearing race responsible for the noise?   Inquiring minds need to know.  

16 hours ago, Barry F said:

I first tried to do a "factory" install on my '17. I bought a new fob and then when it wouldn't program I realized that they are different frequencies.

 

Left: FCC: M3N-A2C93142300, PN: 164-R8163  Freq: 315

Right: FCC: M3N-A2C931426, PN: 164-R8182  Freq: 902

 

 

I ended up adding an aftermarket module where you have to press the lock button 3 times.

 

• I also got the three press aftermarket off ebay.  Always works and took literally, 10 minutes to install.
•  

I've had the opportunity to remove one on the driver side cause it got crushed.  The underside was pretty clean and free of rust.  I fixed it and put it back.  I live in chicago and my 2015 has seen a lot of salt and grime.  I can't imagine not having them.  The whole bottom would start to rust quickly.

I am in the same boat and gave up as being too pricey.  

https://www.4dtech.com/2015-ford-edge-sync-3-upgrade-for-myford-touch/

This should show you all you  need to know.  Put in your VIN.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/vindecoder.php

I doubt it very much.  Either you must use your keypad or valet key.

I really don't think these reservoirs hiss at all.  I have never heard a hiss  from my two vehicles, 2012 and 2015.  But I do make a mark with a magic marker when it is full cold so that I can monitor any leakage.  Every time I lift the hood for any checks, one of them is to give an eyeball to that mark to make sure all is OK.   Cheers.  

True, they look great with a very good fit but do let air in.  You can only notice this at very high speed.  Not very loud at all.  I'm happy with them especially during the rain since they stop any water from getting in with the window open up to 4 inches on the highway, 2 inches while stopped.

3 hours ago, Gadgetjq said:

That's probably the easier way but at the local $140 an hour dealer rate plus extreme markup on materials it would be an expensive option.  More importantly, I enjoy working on my own cars and (even at age 71) can handle a simple drain and refill.  

 

 

Dealer charged me 180.00 on my 2015   3.5engine for the flush.  Not cheap but acceptable price.  Just call them and they will tell you upfront the cost. 

5 hours ago, ONEDGE16 said:

2015-2018 EDGE SE trim level is the only trim that came with the Auto start-stop feature.

 

I have a 2015 SE. No auto start.

19 hours ago, omar302 said:

 

Few questions:

How was the install?

Can you post the link to the eBay listing?

For the turn Signals, can't you just use the wiring for the stock turn signals? They are immediately above those lights at the bottom of the headlights. Might want to disable the stock front parking lights first as they operate on a dual voltage setup (link to how I did it).

Couldn't you have used the stock signature lighting's wires for input for the DRLs?

 

Install was straightforward, add a fuse used to get 12v with engine on.  I know I could tap off of the turn signal socket but I wanted something further down the harness so that it would not interfere with removing the headlight anytime in the future.  I didn't have signature lighting (nor any wires from the harness) since I have a 2015 SE.  Here is a link to these lights. (for some reason this item now has a little circle on the end which you can easily cut because it is thin rubber)  I think if you have the signature light wiring, yes you could probably use that since these things hardly use any amperage but still incredibly bright. 

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-12V-LED-COB-Car-DRL-Daytime-Running-Light-Fog-Driving-Turn-Lamps-Waterproof/152533056341?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I think if you run your vin number at ford it will list all your features.  

http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do

Also this:  http://www.wikilender.com/ultimate-window-sticker-vin-decoder-tool/

https://vincheck.info/vin-check/vin-check-by-make/ford-vin-check/

I put in some ebay leds.  They lie flat and not too bad to wire in.   They are VERY bright.  I tied into a "on when running" circuit.   Although hard to see, the center has a yellow strip of led for a turn signal which was a little harder to tie in because I had to chase down the appropriate wire from the harness.    The two lights in the lower front are a pair of Phillips DRL's. 

Yeah, Ford noticed how everyone is covering up the chrome and now want to charge you for them to do it.  As mentioned, they should default to black with the option for chrome. 

I imagine its a Generation  2 thing cause my 2015 SE uses the same terminal.

2 hours ago, Nick Halstead said:

the hardest part is getting the bottom piece right. I've had my Edge headlights out about 15 times probably in 3 years. I can literally remove both headlights under 5 mins. It does take longer to get them in, unless you get lucky and the bottom goes in the right spot at the right time.

I can't tell from your picture, but when you remove them do you also have to remove or loosen that plastic cover just above the radiator and grill? 

OK,  I have removed these assemblies before but it was very hard to do.  I done this on hundreds of cars but My 2015 Edge headlamps are very stubborn to remove.  Last time I had to remove or loosen much of the grill assembly top in order to get the units out.  Also, I done both push them in, or pushed them out, to remove.  Anyone have an insight as to why they are so stubborn or am I doing something wrong?  I installed my hids last time and this time wish to access the area under each to put in corner DRL's.

Not sure of a 2014 but for 2015 there is but man its 2,400 with gps and nav.  Too pricey for me and doesn't seem worth it.  Long live my iphone.

https://www.google.com/search?q=4+inch+to+8+inch+sync+3+update&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS839US839&oq=4+inch+to+8+inch+sync+3+update&aqs=chrome..69i57.10808j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8