vega

Oh, I got you. There is a round clip ring on the end which locks it into place. Usually, a pry bar will get that end out but use caution not to go crazy cause there is a bushing there. If at first you can't remove it, rotate that end like 1/8 or a revolution and try again, move and try again. The lock ring has a slight opening and you are trying to match the small opening with one of the spline grooves. Good luck

Hello

I need to replace the cv axle on the drivers side on my 08 edge awd. I have never done this but I am proficient with working on cars. I have the shop manual and have looked at youtube videos but cannot figure it out. On the side that goes towards the PTU there is clip on the splined shaft how does one remove this to get the unit out. I know the other end is held by the hub bearing. Thanks alot for the help.

Tony

Clip removal pliers will do the job.

I've never seen a mass produced one but it may exist. When I needed one for my 2015 roof, I was told by the dealer to seek out a custom shop. That means lots of money. Of course a temporary works, Thule makes one. Just google it.

https://www.etrailer.com/vehicle-finder.aspx?hhcat=roof&passmake=Ford&passmodel=Edge&gclid=CjwKCAjw2_LcBRBYEiwA_XVBUyr6Sy8d_qq8g69apKH_BqoYoNrfzUmdNy0bCX6LHPrp5Z2QriMr7BoCoxEQAvD_BwE

use some polishing compound then wax it afterwards and 90% of that scuff will probably disappear. looks like it might be mostly paint from the other car or whatever hit you

Yes, I agree. But to get scuff paint off I use WD40 with a rag and go to work. If it's paint deposited from another vehicle, it will come out with wd40 and some elbow grease. Then go on to the other suggestions to shine it up.

The description of three times of the lock button with a Ford accessory install only applies to the 2018 and up.

Sorry, but third party remote starters are available that use three press start with original fobs or 2015 on up. I bought mine on ebay and for 125.00 dollars and installed it in about 20 minutes with no splicing, plug and play.

Examples:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=2015-18+F150+14-17+FUSION+14-17+MKZ+15-17+EDGE+PLUG+%26+PLAY+REMOTE+START+STARTER+&_id=122475959209&&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2658

Did you have to remove that right panel that surrounds the original light? How did you remove it? Looks good by the way. One light is too dark and then you put something in front of it and you have no light when the hatch opens. Thanks

Just picked up a '12 SEL. Seems like a nice car so far.

It's got the 3,5 V6 and I need to tow. It does not have a hitch.

I know it's rated for #3500 and I'll likely not ever get much past #2000-#2500. I've put the VIN into one of those decoders online and it says #3500 towing capacity but it does not say if it has a specific tow package and, as I said, it does not have a hitch.

My current plan is to put a Class IV hitch under it and one of the plug-n-play wiring harnesses.

My question is, "Since I don't think it really has a tow package, should I go ahead and put an extra tranny cooler on it? I'm leaning heavily towards yes but don't know if I really need to...

I may also put some air bag suspension helpers in the rear coils depending on how it sags with the bike on a trailer behind it.

 

I have searched but not a lot helpful out there so I'd love to hear comments and suggestions.

 

Thanks

If it's just an occasional short tow, then no added cooler needed. If more than that, I would install a cooler.

 

I use a 10 inch painters pad available anywhere. Just the pad, not the holder. I then wrap the pad with a microfiber towel. I can really get to the bottom without killing myself.

Oh, forgot to mention that its better to ge one with plastic edges so you will not possibly cut yourself by mistake.

https://www.amazon.com/XINDELL-Microfiber-Windshield-Cleaning-Detachable/dp/B01CA0OVCU/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1526604211&sr=8-13&keywords=windshield+cleaner

 

I use one like this, but you need to purchase at Walmart or AutoZone and check it out to confirm its the robust higher quality one - I dumped two that I bought online, then decided to inspect before I buy the next one, but that was some time ago and I cant recall where I bought it.

I use a 10 inch painters pad available anywhere. Just the pad, not the holder. I then wrap the pad with a microfiber towel. I can really get to the bottom without killing myself.

So found out either my old pad heater that I put on is either not working, or barely working. When applying it long time ago I remembered that the bottom oil pan is rather a small surface. Is there it anyone's knowledge an after market bottom oil pan that bolts onto the top stock oil pan that has a much larger surface and no janky bends and un-even surfaces? This is on a 3.5 2013 Edge.

 

I use a pan heater over the block heater since I also run a space heater inside the Edge. Having both the block heater and space heater on at the same time, even if the space heater is on low will pop the breaker in the house. A pan heater however doesn't take much power, so both can be on at the same time, even on high with the space heater. Having a heater inside helps keep frost off, melt snow on the glass before it has a chance to stick and bind. The best part is its nice and warm inside, even the steering wheel is warm, and that's just fantastic! Once you do it, you really cant live without it, especially with how winter is going so far in Canada!

 

Thanks.

Sorry but I just saw your post. Have a friend near Winnipeg who uses a dipstick heater which has a pretty low current draw and cheap to buy.

Wont the belt stain my clothes after it is sprayed?

Spray only the first 1/2 that comes fully out and only on the side facing away from your clothes. Worked for me.

Agreed, malarky talk from the dealer.

Use Tasca parts for the best and lowest price on these. I just ordered 2 of each of the three for about 10 bucks..

I needed the same and could only get it at the dealer. Sorry, I don't have the part number but just tell them and they will look it up.

I have a 2015 se and put in HIDS, I have never been flashed by anyone and live in a major city. However, I did have to put in capacitors because although they worked when I installed them, they would turn off when I turned on the engine. Just a heads up.

Thanks for the information. Given that these are OEM led lamps, I will proceed with caution and get the kit since it has a controller which should protect the circuits.

You’re not using a kit that’s plug and play?

No. It's actually for a bike rack and I thought I'd make it pretty with some lights on the cheap.

Hello all, trying to splice in a trailer harness. Working on the left light assembly which has five wires. Black, red, orange, green and brown. I am assuming that black is ground. Can anyone tell me what each is for? Need to pin down the turn signal, brake, and parking wires. I did a probe test with a 12 volt meter but I think the module is giving me weird readings. Any help appreciated. Thanks

Then no it won't count as a key unless it had some process to learn a key which I don't think those do?

Well, I double checked and in my case it counts as a admin key. This was a fully plug and play unit that took less that 10 minutes to install, eight of which was the cover from the steering wheel bottom.

What remote start did you install?

A cheap one from ebay that works with your regular fob, Not too bad very limited to the same range as your fob.

Thank you for the information.

Does anyone know if installing a remote start counts against the administrative key count? I have three keys as admin keys. I also have installed a remote start. When I tried to add a key, the car said it had 4 keys programmed and that is the limit.

My old battery tested fine three times at local Ford dealer, showed bad when I used my Solar BA-7 tester. A regular tester measures voltage. A Solar BA-7 tester tests the batteries actually internal capacity, and read's it out in Cold Cranking Amps. My battery was rated 650 CCA and read out 423 CCA. it lasted several weeks from when Ford said it was fine.

 

SOLAR BA7 100-1200 CCA Electronic Battery and System Tester

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PI7A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7vs6zbY665Z05

 

Addl note, I decided to go out and check my battery just to check. New one is rated 650 CCA, read out at 349 CCAs. ???

 

Cleaned the top and checked the electrolyte level. Checked again and now reads 457 CCA. (I do mostly short trips, and it sits sometimes for 2-3 days without being driven). Looks like I'll be buying a desulphating charger to bring it back to 650.

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006G14FK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Zfs6zbXSJTFQR

 

Whats happening is, as the battery starts the car, it draws hundreds of amperes. This causes crystals to from on the plates. The alternator recharges the battety and in the process, re-disolves these crystals and the battery returns to its full state. If you drive short trips, the alternator doesn't have sufficient time to fully re-disolve these crystals and the plates lose their ability to deliver full rated current during the next start. Over time, the plates are Crystalled over and can no longer start the car.

 

One fix is to make certain your Battety always receives a full charge (drive at least 20 minutes highway). Or buy a desulphating charger that will disolve the crystals.

 

These ordinary battery checkers really only test voltage, checking good even though the capacity has dropped to a low level.

Conductive test of the CA or CCA is the ONLY way to really check. I'm shocked at the number of NEW batteries at fault.

Stumbled across this today. Good info to see how and what they look for, and how they attempt to identify and document your performance mods. Anyone see this before? Its good to know this stuff if you are modifying a factory warrantied vehicle.

 

https://ford.oemdtc.com/GSB/G0000128.pdf

 

Wow, anything is potentially grounds for denial of a claim. Just as bad as an insurance company when they lose the bet. That's why I wait until all warranties are expired before I fiddle. Thanks roots57

I think that's a connector for the pigtail that actually has the 4 pin or 7 pin connector. It comes with the factory towing package.

Here's a picture of this connector. still a mystery. I might just have to get my meter out and see what going on there. Just wish I had a male connector to attach with pigtails.