vega

I have a v6 2015 Edge SE. At the rear bottom, next to, and slightly above, the driver side exhaust tip, there's a female 12pin oval looking connector. Is this for trailer wiring? If so, what kind of a connector is needed for a trailer? Sorry if this isn't the correct forum but I could'nt pin it down to which it belonged to. Thanks

I placed sound mats in the spare tire area and removed the wheel well skirts and coated the interior side with underlayment rubber spray. Improved greatly. However, I find its the type of tires and size to be the main culprit. IMO

Yes, same with my gen2 2015 awd. Thought it was just me cause I stand only 5'5" tall. Also, I noticed on long trip that the gas pedal pressing force is harder than a gen 1 edge. Not by much, but enough that one notices.

Hi,

I just was about to replace a bulb in my 2007 Edge taillight when I noticed that the brake light socket was halfway melted.

Checked the other side, same thing.

Is that normal wear and tear?

Thanks,

Ed

I had two Audi's that did the same thing and was told to apply silicone grease to the base interior and bulb base by the dealer. It worked. Now I always use it for all bulb contacts and connectors.

Well, since we are now reduced to speculation and conjecture about accident causes, I'd venture to say that the number one cause of rear end accidents is tail gating, I will never understand why the fool tailgating me thinks that by doing so, traffic will travel faster.

Primed grill, plasti dipped trim (looks as good as when I dipped it months ago).

I plasti dipped my grill and it looks great. By mistake, I applied Trimshine on it and it's now shiny and sealed! Nice mistake.

Not sure if your question got answered, OP. I just did this with mine. No need to remove the brake light. Open the hatch and remove the center trim piece at the top of the rear window. Just give it a firm yank. The wires from the 3rd brake light are behind there.

And let me tell you how much it does grab attention. I have the flasher on all of my cars. It does not go unnoticed by people behind me. I get calls a lot, "is your brake light supposed to flash?" Yes. "why?" It grabbed your attention didn't it? It does a quick 3 flash, Similar to a firetruck or ambulance. As for it being annoying to the person behind you, oh well. But to be nice, mine has the capability to disable the flash for 10 seconds after hitting the brakes. So in stop and go traffic it doesn't flash every time I hit the brake.

Yes, I did it exactly the way you said. Thanks for the input regardless. Mine also disables for stop and go traffic.

It's scary to think that they give a drivers license to people who can't even ride a bike.

Mine drive great at any speed.

Yes I understand the law and federal preemption but a state trooper cannot write you a federal violation ticket, only one based on state statute. I will risk the ticket. Pretty stupid antiquated federal DOT laws out there. Always twenty years behind. I just can't wait.

The federal law is a safety standard by which all manufacturers must follow while State law governs lighting you display on your vehicle while in use. For me, Illinois prohibits all flashing lights with various exceptions for emergency vehicles. The statute prohibits flashing which in turn is defined as continuous. Three flash then steady brake light is not continuous. It can be easily be replicated by pumping your brakes. Don't know about other states.

That may be true but I see them all the time. On a Kia, it's standard equipment from the factory. As to being annoying, that's the point. Too many drivers are asleep out there. I have three cars and have a flasher on each. I'm tired of getting rear ended at stops with the obligatory, "Oh sorry, I didn't see you."

I don't think so. Open your fob and look for a ID number. Then google that number, or even ebay the number and you'll find the correct one.

Well, I gave up on removing the third brake light. I wanted to put in a flashing module. I found that the trim from underneath popped right out. From there, I found the harness connection to the light and spliced in a connector which in turn hooked into the module. Oh, by the way, because of Ford's modulated type of current, the only module I got to work was Signal Dynamics Backoff. type 1001 (which is the original). Now the third brake light quickly flashes 5 times and then steady on when the brakes are applied.

Well, I got the keys, had them cut at Lowes, and programmed them. They start the Edge, but none of the buttons work to lock or unlock the doors.

Did you program them according to your manual/?

Thanks for the replies, all. I talked to my dealer and am cashing in a "favor" to have the second and third key programmed. Sounds like they will charge me $5 to cut them. So, I'm going to use one of the links above to buy two keys. Thanks again - I appreciate the help!

Shumax

Just to be clear, if you order from ebay, also applies to all refurbished fobs, open your key fob down to the battery and write down the number you see. You want the EXACT number on your new one in order to avoid fobs that look right but will not program. I just went through this mess and it wasn't pretty. Good luck guy.

The hood ajar function isn't enabled unless the vehicle has an alarm and/or remote start from factory. Take a look at your hood latch. Does it have an electrical connector plugged into it? That is where the hood switch is located. It is built into the latch. I would assume (yes big assumption) that all levels of the Edge have this even if the base ones that wouldn't come with alarm/remote start.

 

No dealer is going to cover the programming of remote start/alarm under warranty. There was probably nothing wrong with the hood switch circuit. They are juts giving you an excuse to justify the charge which most would charge one hour min labor anyway.

I have a 2015 se model and have a hoodswitch. I have no remote anything or alarm. If my hood is not latched I get a warning on my display. My point being it may be year specific.

another thing that could be useful for the noob like me is a "forscan for dummies" or a primer of some sort.

 

do i need a license for the forscan software in order to modify the settings on my edge? i don't see a place to buy a license but there's mention of having an account but needing to meet certain criteria, etc. i can't figure out what the deal is here. is this some kind of underground cult with a secret handshake? i was hoping for a more straightforward experience; buy dongle, buy software, hack. it's not clear to me what i need to do/buy in order to proceed. can anyone give me the steps? thanks

For me, knowing little to nothing, this really helped:

http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=4573

Thanks for the reply. I guess three fob will do for now.

Open your hood and start the car. If it says your hood is open or ajar, you have the pin and you don't need to do anything further. The remote start just needs to have one present in order to work correctly. (I think all our Edge's have one. At least 2015 forward) As to the remote install, I did mine myself. The hardest thing was removing the cowling under the steering column and disconnecting and reconnecting the pigtail connectors. Need small hands and lots of patience. Although not for the Ford OEM remote start, this video was for mine and was instructive. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fB3j7hCHYLg

I have a 2015 edge se. Just bought 2 extra keys to program. Programmed the first one no problem but...when I tried the second it said maximum keys programmed. I see that the car says it has 4 admin keys programmed. I only got 2 fobs when I bought the Edge. That means there is an admin key out there in the wild. (programmed before I purchased the car) At least I now have 3 keys. Is there any way to wipe out all extra keys so there are only 2 admin keys so I can program the other two????

How do you remove the 3rd (high) brake light housing? It doesn't seem to want to pry out. Don't want to force it. Yet.