ldruth61

12 hours ago, omar302 said:

There was a Special Service Message 44354. "2011-2013 Edge, Explorer, MKX, Taurus, MKT and FLEX - 3.5L/3.7L (Ti-VCT) - Oil in the Air Intake. Some 2011-2013 with 3.5l or 3.&L variable cam timing engine built on or before 3/31/2012 may exhibit engine oil in the air systems may be caused by an accumulation of oil in the left hand valve coverbaffle migrating through the fresh air intake carnkcase ventilation (PCV) system. Oil on the ir flter or oil at the electrocnic throttle body may also be observed. Valve cover BR#Z-6582-M has been released to resolve this concern. Residual oil in the intake air system damage and can be removed using a clean rag. Use available service labor times for left hand valve cover repairs. EFFECTIVE DATE: 13-JAN-2014".

 

There might be a more clear documentation out there, but this is what i found quickly.

omar302 Would this be something the dealer would due as a recall type of thing or will I have to pay for it. 

6 hours ago, 1004ron said:

When I changed spark plugs on my wife's 3.7L Mustang I found oil in the intake - I replaced the PCV valve and installed a catch-can and no longer get oil in the intake.

 

I doubt that the engine braking would cause this.

1004ron -What kind of catch can? So you remove the breather tube from the air intake manifold and put a can on the end of it?

thanks

Dean

2012 SE, 3.5 L V6 - I keep getting oil in my air intake manifold between filter and throttle body.  I was reading a while back and saw that a bad PVC can cause this so I replaced it. But still doing it. Then I read excessive engine oil pressure will be created and cause extra oil to push through the PCV valve and into the air intake. You can tell it's coming from the breather tube on the left side of intake manifold that goes to engine. Could this be happening from me using my manual shifter when going downhill to avoid excessive braking? It causes engine back pressure when Rpms go up and engine shifts down while going down the hill. Any thoughts about that being the issue or something else. Engine is well maintained and serviced regularly by me.

Thanks for help

Dean

Bb56

you have the wrong guy. I never said my calibers needed replaced. I have a scanner and have no codes. 
thanks for your help

dean

bb56

Thanks for all that great info. When I did the brakes I made sure the slots in piston were aligned. This just suddenly happen. I would thing if that was the issue this would have happen along time ago. And I always use my parking brake (e brake). when I was bleeding my brakes I my rotors looked clean, if I remember correctly. I am going to do the drive test first and if there is a difference in temperature from front to back I will pull the back tires and put it on jacks and pull the calibers and make sure everything is working correctly. I really appreciate all your in site. Hopefully I can get to the bottom of this.

By the way. I did try the driving backwards and braking hard and no noticeable difference, but I did not try it with my parking brake. I will give that it another shot also.

Dean

UPDATE - Just went out and did the braking backwards and using parking brake. May have firmed up some. Checked the rotors. Front was hotter then back. Then driving back home i rode the brakes for a while and then checked. Both front and back were about equal as far as hot to the touch. 

Dd56

thanks for the great explanation. My rear brake pads are pretty much new, less then 10k on them. But when i had the tires off and had someone put on the brakes i did not see any movement and no gaps between pads, caliber piston and rotor. Everything looked tight. I assumed it was because the pads are new. I did the brakes myself and i believe i lubed everything property. But maybe i need to reinspect them. By the way a fast brake or double pump does make the brake pedal stay high and brake hard. So maybe that is because the backs are not engaging making the front end dive when i brake, like maybe it is only the front brakes engaging. 
How can i confirm the rear are not engaging? Should i see the caliber me at all with new pads? Maybe i need to touch them when someone brakes to feel if they are engaging. I just had to waste more time. They worked fine and suddenly stop. Don't get that 

dean

.  

The e brake works but is not super tight. I did not know you could manually adjust the e brake cable on the edge but i will look into it.

An update on power bleed. I thought it did not help at first but it did firm them up slightly where as they still go to low to floor, but are more firm as they go down. The bleeder did not push Fluid very fast and i contacted motive  the manufacture and he suggested applying slight pressure on brake pedal, so i may try that. Im thinking maybe with such low pressure maybe it was not enough to get all the air out from all the Crevices in brake components. I was using 20 psi per instructions
dean  

The push rod on a 20** edges are not adjustable. 

BB56 & Mikeyhd

Well I tried to bleed with a power bleeder and it made no difference. I basically pushed new fluid in but did not help tighten up my brakes. Still go to the floor. I tried removing the ABS fuses and it made no difference either. I checked calibers to make sure they are putting pressure on brake pads and there is no gaps. I have no idea what to do now.

I have loved my edge, but I am so disappointed in ford at this point. I have never had so much problems with any newer car EVER. 

Any other suggestions?

Dean

Thanks BB56 & Mikeyhd. 

I will check the caliber and if all good will likely get a power bleeder. I have the auto bleed scanner that is supposed to bleed the hmu into lines and then you bleed the lines. But I suppose having it under pressure would be even better.

Thanks

Dean

H Mike

Thanks for the reply. The first time it happen I was just driving on a normal road with normal dry conditions braking for a turn. No ABS even. The bleeding has been all manual other then the auto bleed using my scanner. After using the auto bleeder it makes them even worse, which makes me think it is bleeding air out of the HCU. After changing out master cylinder I introduced a lot of air into the system. I think the system is firmer and I believe the master cylinder replacement may have solved the original . I read that it can take 8 to 10 bleeding sequences to get all the air from the HCU and lines. I am going to do another 8 manual and auto bleeds. I am thinking I still have air in the HCU and need to do additional bleeding of that unit with the Auto system followed by manual bleed of each line at wheels. Do you think pressure bleeding would be more effective? I am hoping this will help. Will keep you posted.

Dean

Here is my story. Brake Booster replaced about 4 yrs ago under warranty. Brakes went out again a few months ago and took to ford. They said booster pump again. I did not want to pay 1100.00 so i did it myself. Brake still go do floor. Replaced Booster Vacuum Line & Check Valve and no change. Just changed the Master Cylinder and did auto bleed and manually bleed brakes 3 times. Tried the driving backwards bit, they may have firmed them up some. If there is any difference it is hardly noticeable but they do seem to be a little firmer as they go to the floor to stop.  What the hell do I do now? I don't know where else to turn and Ford can kiss my ass. Thank you for your help

Dean