omar302

And only for those with butt dynos 😁. I then misunderstood your post.

You SHOULD feel a difference. The owner's manual also states "For best overall vehicle and engine performance, premium fuel with an octane rating of 91 or higher is recommended." A lot of newer vehicles, Ford's EcoBoost engines included, are designed like that. They can work with regular fuel, but using Premium fuel would yield better performance. Ford also had started advertising their Horsepower & Torque number when using 93 Octane fuel.

There is no video posted in your post. Any warning lights comes on when the issue happens?

I used to put on daily whenever I park as it was along time habit, but recently with it being electrical on the Gen2 Edge I just felt that the actuator might fail sooner if I kept engaging it every single time. So now I judge when I park, if it is a level surface I'd skip engaging the parking brake.

Maybe try to have someone hold the lever pulled while another tries to pull up on the hood.

I am not into tuning, came across this post from the Fusion Sport Forums, the OP seems to have went through a lot to get his tune & misfires sorted out. Maybe he can help you out seeing how the Edge Sport is closely related to the Fusion Sport.

As @ben senise stated above, the "distance to empty" figures are predictive. They use the average MPG of the past few hundred miles, so if your current driving uses has a lower mpg compared to the average used for calculation, the "distance to empty" number will go down quickly. From you posts above, seems your driving is for short drives which will definitely reduce your mileage.

If you have access to the 2019/2020 service manual you should be able to see the engine cooling components. That's how I found it on the 2015 model.

Battery is 22 months old. It's a Motorcraft BXT-90T5-590E, the 2nd battery in the Edge's lifetime.

Yesterday I went to work in my Edge with no issues. In the afternoon when leaving (~8 hours later), the fob was not responding to unlock, so I thought the fob battery had died. But the the Edge still did not start using the fob backup slot. Nothing came up on the cluster which lead me to thing it was the vehicle's battery was dead as it is 666 days old, and not the fob. So tried to jump start it with another vehicle but no success. Still nothing from the start button or cluster. I then realized that using the keypad buttons outside worked, I can lock/unlock the doors find with the keypad, but neither the fob or the interior lock/unlock buttons worked. So in a hunch, I disconnected the vehicles battery for about a minute & reconnected it and the Edge Started fine!!! Checking for codes, I found a bunch or U codes, which usually come after a battery disconnect, but also got a P2610 - ECM/PCM Engine Off Timer Performance. Any thoughts on this? The Edge is now working fine even with the code on. Cleared it is gone. It is a 2016 Edge Sport with approximately 36K miles.

The 2019+ Edge has a different PTU than prior models, is there also a water cooled version of the new PTU? The change in the 2019+ PTU is the ability to disconnect the driveshaft when AWD is not needed, so I am surprised it is heating up in your Edge ST when towing at highway speeds, I would have thought that the driveshaft would be disconnected and thus no load on the PTU.

So the driver door's intelligent access unlock function does not work, what about for locking the doors? I don't recall this issue being brought up before. What if you try the rear driver side door, does it then open all doors? The rear doors on the Edge also have intelligent access. If the rear door does open all door locks, my guess is that there might be a fault in the driver door handle or the connection to it.

The turn signal circuit on the Edge uses a dual voltage setup, low voltage (5V i think) to activate the parking light and full voltage to activate the turn signal. The bulb itself is a single filament bulb. You can disable the "parking light" voltage using ForScan and then you'll get rid of the constant current, but you would also loose the "parking light" from the same circuit. Refer to this post. Though the side marker still functions as a parking light, so there would still be a constant power for parking light going into the headlamp assembly. Another source for the constant parking light is from the signature light in the bumper, it has 12V constant with ignition on and another constant with parking lights which causes the signature lights to dim when parking/head lights are on.

Should take care of what @Cerberus stated in his post above. Since the valve stays in place and has a smaller diameter, the minimum point is raised slightly and would mean that more oil might be left in the pan compared to removing the complete plug. They also state that in their websit: