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MaX83_ZA

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Posts posted by MaX83_ZA

  1. On 6/14/2019 at 2:32 PM, vmaxbaby said:

    Called Flowmaster about this to get more info.  The sales guy was very knowledgeable about the device and he claims that the computer will adjust for fuel when the computer call for it at the level this adjust which is 3lbs of boost factory.  They have tested this for a year on different vehicles before they released it and according to him and to date nobody has called them about a blown engine.  Now if this did something like 10lbs boost than I would not walk away I would run away from this but for 3lbs I will roll the dice since the motor has a 60K warranty and the dealer can't tell it was ever on.  But having less than 300 miles on my car will wait for a while.

     

    Yip, like i said :)

     

    Let us know how it goes.

  2. I had something similar on my Jeep CRD; that one plugged into the diesel rail (and I think one other sensor, cant remember, I am getting too old...) and adjusted the fueling, resulting in the ECU requesting more Boost to get fuel ratios right. The way we tuned that one was to increase boost incrementally till the car went into limp mode at WOT. Then we dialed it one step back. 50 000km no problems and that thing literally went up and down mountains. Before modifying the Jeep, we agreed that if we blow the engine, will will just get a new one. We knew the risk, we were willing to pay to play.

  3. This only fools your Boost sensor, all other sensors (including knock sensor) remains unaffected i.e. ECU still manages all other sensors and AFR's. You will see the shape of the power curves on the dyno look virtually identical, just higher. With tunes, you will usually see the shape change completely change as the tuners remove boost limits/adjust timing etc. You can make much more power with a tune, but you can do just as much damage with a bad tune. 

     

    At the end of the day, you pay to play. There is no such thing as a free ride :)

  4. 2 hours ago, akirby said:

     

    I know you hate Ford Performance but try reading the article before commenting.

     

    They threw another revision of a de-tuned Focus RS engine (i.e. an engine that they are already using in the mustang....) in a Mustang GT Performance Pack body and they are calling it an achievement.... 

     

    What did I miss?

  5. On 3/28/2019 at 7:46 PM, Nick Halstead said:


    My main issue is the label "ceramic made easy" false advertisement cause it's more wax, than it is ceramic, it's like having 5 gallons of water and pouring in a shot of pine-sol (without the strong smell..lol)

     

    same with the mothers product that says "coat like a pro the affordable and easy way" marketing words aimed at people thinking they are getting a $2,000. ceramic job for less than $15.

    I'm not a professional, it's a lil bit more than a weekend thing for me though but my day to day activities are controlled via U.S. Army. Every weekend for the past year or so I had a different car in my garage getting some type of work done, It was a big leap, cause I never wanted to do other peoples cars, but I did my boss' truck and then his boss saw it and his brand new hellcat with 4,000 miles ended up in my driveway and it spread from there.

     

    I hear you about the false advertising. I genuinely think it was the Megs marketing department that tried to leverage the current "IN" thing in detailing to push the product. I frankly dont care what its called, I applied the second coat to my Mustang yesterday and I am genuinely impressed (will upload a pic in the next post)!

     

    Back in the day, I use to do my family's cars just for the love of it. Thought about doing something on weekends but I am too lazy LOL! 

  6. 57 minutes ago, Nick Halstead said:


    cutting compound def removes the product, I haven't seen said video, but if a water test was done, water will always bead if used after any type of compound, something that takes swirls off the top micron of a clearcoat will def wipe away a chemical shield on top of the clearcoat. 
     

    Most real ceramics can't even prevent most micro-marring so there is no way an OTC highly diluted SIO2 ceramic/wax infused spray will do this.

    My current detailing routine depends on what the customer has me doing, Am I ceramic coating it, Just washing it? My Edge is Ceramic coated in Cquartz, My Audi has Gyeon Cancoat on it to test it's durability and how good it is with swirls since it's a short life ceramic with extreme hydrophobic properties but not so good properties when it comes to marring and swirling, that was applied in Dec 2017, The glass on the car is till amazing, the paint, still beads but the coating is gone, but it far exceeded 6 months. Though as the military moves me from Hi, to AZ to NC withing one year, the Audi looks horrible since all it gets is waterless washes with ONR and live in a desert apartment. When I get to NC, I already have it set for, wash/chemical decon/mechanical decon/tar remover/2 step paint correction via My FLEX 3401/then wiped clean with IPA and then ceramic coated with Kamikaze Zipang and Myobi combo. Normal for my car is just a foam with Swissvax and then a 2 bucket wash with the soap, dried with a Klin Korea Duo drying towel and then a blower in tight spaces. Though most my jobs are coatings, so they go like this...

     

     

    Awesome, didnt know you were a professional detailer! I am more of a weekend warrior. I did a couple of show and shines back in the day (before ceramics were this mainstream) but now only do it once, maybe twice a year depending on whether I buy a new car or helping a friend. So for me, ease of use, speed and cost is very important. I try to get a decent base and then maintain it so naturally when the quick ceramics like HC and Adams Spray Ceramic were launched, I jumped on it.

     

    If I find the vid on the HC i will post it, but seems like you made up your mind anyways so dont want to waste both our time lol! 

  7. 3 hours ago, Nick Halstead said:


    take a APC and dilute it 3/1 spray on surface, let it dwell for 5 mins then spray off and hybrid ceramic wax will basically be gone. A dedicated SIO2 spray sealant like Carpro Reload or Gyeon Cure is a better option. You can literally get the same look from a bottle of windex (this test has been done also) as you can from hybrid ceramic wax because the main reason the paint looks good is based on the polishing of the paint, just wont get the hydrophobic properties.

     

    I have seen as many great reviews as negative reviews, I am testing this one myself and will then make up my mind. At $14 a bottle (Canadian) it is a cheap experiment. If it provides more protection than regular Wax, its already a win. If it doesnt provide the protection, it at least looks like and applies like a regular wax so its also a win. The one review I watched, the dude ran a DA with cutting compound over it and it didnt remove the HC i.e. it should provide relatively good protection against micro-marring when drying which is a step up from just a wax. I fully agree that it provides virtually no protection against chemical cleaners but both my cars are relatively pampered and will never see harsh touchless wash cleaners anyway.

     

    What does you current detailing routine entail? 

  8. 13 hours ago, Nick Halstead said:


    not a fan of it, horrible durability and like 90% of all OTC products, all hype, to profit off the people who don't know any better.

     

    I only applied it this weekend so cannot comment on durability. What I can comment on, the finish is incredible! I was going to top it off with Fusso King of Gloss to get that deep gloss but HC looks great on its own. The pic above is genuinely 1 coat of HC on a prepped surface. Incredible.

     

    Also, it takes no longer to apply than a regular wax (first application) and then to top up you spray and rinse (although I will probably use it as a drying aid and not a spray and rinse). A lot of reviewers complain that it is wasteful, at $14 a bottle, does it matter LOL! I had Adams new Ceramic Spray Coat in my cart and ready to go but after watching a couple of head to head shoot outs between the megs and the Adams, I decided that at the price, I dont mind giving the HC a go even if it only lasts 2 or 3 months. Heck, for that price, I wont mind if it lasts only 1 month. LOL! (Its obviously easy to please me...)

     

    My big question is; what is going on my new black Mustang GT this weekend... So far, it seems that the base will be HC, I am just not sure if I will apply something on-top of it. 

  9. On 3/24/2019 at 3:51 PM, John Rom said:

    I finally got the chance to start on this today. I only did a front fender as a test but I'm please with the way it came out. I started with Mother's clay bar followed by Meguiar's Scratch X in a few deeper scratches. Then a buffing using Maguiar's Ultimate Compound, Swirl X, then Ultimate Polish and gold class carnaba wax. All of this was done by hand and applied with a foam pad. What a difference between the finished fender and the untouched door.

     

    Thanks again for all the guidance and and suggestions.

     

    If I remember right, Swirl X has a stronger cut than Megs Ultimate compound. So your sequence should be Swirl X, UC and then Polish. Also note, Megs UC breaks down to polishing crystals if you keep on working the product. You will actually see the product change from a white paste to a more clear color so keep working the UC. If you apply Megs UC right, you can skip the Polish step. Also, if you had a DA polisher, I would bet you will be able to use Megs UC with a decent pad without having to go through a multi stage correction. (hard to give advice without seeing the car) 

     

    Pic below is of my Edge after the winter, had some serious swirls, process was: wash, clay, 1 Pass Megs UC with a medium cutting/polish pad, 1 coat of Megs Hybrid Ceramic. The paint isnt 100% perfect but as a daily driver that is 4 years old, the purpose was to clean-up the clear coat and then seal. This is my daily, not a showcar so I value layers of clearcoat over a 100% perfect finish (i reckon finish is about 85% corrected)

     

    Edit: Picture below

     

  10. 17 hours ago, vmaxbaby said:

    This is why I created this post I wanted to hear from real people (owners of the ST) not someone trying to pump up their hits on youtube to make more money.  There has been some very honest reviews of it especially the guy that put the car on the lift and walked under it explaining it doesn't have allot of change.  In fact I subscribed to his channel now just because he seems like a stand up guy.

     

    If you are like me, you will end up watching all of his previous videos. I sub'ed to SavegeGeese probably 2 years ago and think he is one of only a hand full of guys that truly understand what it means to review a car. Like I said, I dont care much for his subjective views on styling and even engine tuning, but the rest of it is solid!

  11. 19 hours ago, akirby said:

    I believe what happened is that they were planning to use the new 8 speed but ran into problems and decided that only easy solution was to updated the 6F55 to a 8 spd and they just ran out of time to tune and debug it properly.

    The bigger question  is whether that can be fixed with software or not.  Hopefully most of it can be.

     

    The 1 and 3 gear ratio in the ST box is exactly the same as the 1 and 2 ratio on the Sport. The way the 2.7 makes power (have a look at the dyno graph, shorter shifts at the top will actually result in the car using less torque and not much extra HP), it does not need the extra shift between 1 and 2. Even if they get it to shift properly/smoothly, it is still a wasted shift. If the ST was a peaky aspirated motor (like the Mustang GT) that made peak power at 7000+ rpm, and you wanted to keep it on the boil under acceleration, then the extra shifts makes sense.  That is why I said, Ford marketing gave Ford performance a list of requirements that would allow them to sell cars and given their time constraints, this is the best they could do.

     

    If you read reviews of the new Focus ST, you start to understand what the badge complaints are about on the Edge ST. The same team that slapped a ration between a 1 and 2 shift on a torque heavy 2.7 twin turbo, built, once again, one of the best handling hot hatches on the road, with a proper double clutch gearbox and even a anti-lag system!!! (edit: wasnt going to talk ST badge again, sorry)

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  12. 18 minutes ago, TomCinMI said:

    So many of those who commented directly on the video came off as though, "Wow, Savagegeese. May as well have come from God Himself!" There are all kinds of agendas at play, let alone sloppiness, in the making of YouTube content.

     

    Did you watch that video? Did the video or the presenter at any point in time come across as "sloppy"? He is the first reviewer that actually went the extra mile to research the transmission. That is all... I dont care much for his opinion bits (i.e. his song around black plastic is getting old and he complains about fake engine sound all the time) but his technical reviews are some of the best out there. That, and his driving impressions. He spends a lot of time on the track; he doesnt just talk about how a car should drive, he understands the essence and physics behind it. 

  13. 15 minutes ago, IWRBB said:

     

    Unless it's something physically hitting/rubbing the edge of the glass pane that they are correcting (which I doubt), I'd guess they limit the voltage/current to the rear window defroster to slow down the thermal change rate.

     

     

    I am pretty sure it is something along those lines; prior to the fix, the rear defroster would clean snow and ice pretty quick off the rear window. Tried it the other day and it took easily 3 to 4 times longer than prior to the fix.

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