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Bumpin96monte

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  1. Wow, that labor is absurd! That's got to be 5 or more hours total between diagnostic and install. They sure make a good bit of money off the people coming in for that repair!
  2. I've always owned GM cars in my ~20 years driving and have had about 15 of them at this point, a few of which I still own. Ive picked them up a mix of new and used - mostly driven them throguh the 30k-125k mileage range, although I've had a couple new, and a couple up to 150 and 200k. When shopping for a mid size SUV back in 2015, we just didn't like the GM offerings- our biggest complaint being lack of direct rear vents as our main purpose was buying this for child on the way. So we branched out to try other cars and finally settled on this new 2015 Edge Titanium 2.0L as my wife loved it. To start, the buying experience was the worst I've ever experienced (long story), but we figured we'd just never go back to that Ford dealer and that we'd be good to go otherwise. Unfortunately this Edge has turned out to be the worst car we've ever owned in terms of issues. We're considering getting rid of it early before something too major goes bad as we're only around 110k now. Definitely won't buy an Edge again, and probably won't touch a Ford again either. Issues we've had: 1 - Lane assist quit working suddenly. Still broken, not worth the hassle to mess with it. 2 - Clips on plastic trim in front of sunroof failed causing it to flap at highway speed which cracked the panel. Replaced myself and added the adhesive per the TSB. 3 - Navigation failed. SD card died out of nowhere. Replaced it myself. 4 - Evap valve broke. Self diagnosed, but had an extremely hard time finding the replacement (including 2 dealers). Someone on this forum helped find it luckily- but of course they dont sell just the valve, youve got to buy this whole 2 hose assembly. 5 - Hatch electric latch failed. Fixed myself; what a pain to get it released - even with the service manual! 6 - Proximity sensors occasionally freak out at stoplights, 2-3 times/ week. Not frequent enough to bother fixing yet. 7 - Front left brake line failed (before the recall). This alone makes me extremely skeptical of Ford for screwing up something so critical. Paid dealer to replace as I couldn't do repairs at the house we were renting at the time. 8 - Severe coolant loss. Hosed down the engine bay from somewhere back by the turbo- twice. Dumped probably a quart of coolant on the engine each time. Cleaned it up, never found the leak, never happened again, hasn't lost any notable coolant in 50k miles. 9 - AC compressor failed (most recent issue). Locked up and trashed the system. $2500 at the dealer as I dont have AC service equipment. Absurdly expensive repair for what it is. 10 - Sunroof has issues opening. Tried lubing it, but it still seems like something is dragging. Just quit opening it beyond the 'pop up' position. 11 - HID headlight failed. I get light bulbs are consumable, but a $100+ bulb going bad at 60k miles is frustrating. 12 - Both front wheel bearings failed. Replaced them myself. 75k when it happened, about 90% highway mileage, never driven through high water. Earliest Ive ever had them fail on a car. 13 - Passenger glass is scratched from the factory (or dealer tint install). We thought it was just the film that was scratched (again, long story with the purchase issues) and figured it would go away once we re-tinted down the road with nice ceramic stuff. Well, they didn't - the aftermarket tint shop showed us the numerous horizontal scratches in the glass (after warranty of course). Doesnt bother us enough to replace it. Other misc frustrations: -This thing EATS batteries. Stock didn't quite make it 2 years. Aftermarket replacement also failed almost exactly 2 years beyond that. My other cars get at least 3, sometimes 4. -The transmission fluid draining is a pain for DIY fluid changes (I get its a joint GM Ford trans). Only lets out a few quarts at a time and you have to keep repeating, throwing away some good fluid each time if you're doing a DIY fluid swap. -The Ford parts system is terrible. As noted above, someone on this board had to locate that EVAP valve PN as I couldn't figure it out online, and 2 Ford dealers couldn't either. Also had issue finding the correct front rotor. Dealer gave me the first set with the wrong lug pattern, right diameter though. Second set was too big - probably for a sport. Finally had the parts department manager spend some time searching around with the VIN to figure out what we had. Of course its special order only, none of the 4 or 5 dealers locally had it. I just put the originals back on as they still had some life left and I was in the middle of a brake job. -The Sync system is pretty terrible for its age (2015). This was our first car with factory NAV and its embarrassingly slow. Too bad we spent the money on it as it we just use our phones for NAV near 100% of the time. Long rant, but its been the most problematic (both in terms of number of issues and cost of issues I've had - especially at just over 5 years old / 100k miles). Definitely won't even consider another Ford once we finally offload this one; been a very poor first experience.
  3. Curious what the breakdown on the bill was to get it up to $700? The part was only about $150 if I remember right, and it only took me (an average home handyman) about an hour to replace it, so I can't imagine book time is much beyond that. To the other questions above, personally, if I had to do it again, I'd probably have cut apart the ties on the two lines Ford forces you to buy. Since you're only replacing the valve which is on the 1 line, there's no need to replace the other besides it being wrapped together from Ford. Would definitely save some labor replacing an otherwise good hose, and you could always stick it on the shelf for later if you need it.
  4. Curious if anyone has had this happen before and what you paid to fix it? 114k miles, 2.0T titanium, was working perfectly up until a couple days ago. Remote started the car to cool it down and heard a click followed by relative quiet (from the fans coming off high) as we were loading in to leave. Immediately after, zero AC. Took it to a dealer, they say the compressor seized and sent trash through the system. They say pretty much everything except the condenser was damaged. Total is $2500 (roughly $1500 labor / $1000 parts) for replacing all the bad parts, flushing out the system, and refilling. Thoughts? This is the first compressor failure I've ever had and mileage seems pretty low for it to have happened. Price is also more than I was expecting. Honestly kinda weighing fixing it vs selling private party as is. I know we'd probably take an equal beating selling it private party with the issue, but honestly I'm getting a bit tired of all the failures this car has had since new. Its been by far the most problematic car we've had - this just happens to be the most expensive issue so far.
  5. Just to close this one out in case others search for it. Below is the issue mine was having (not my video): Put in a new latch (about $225 in stock at the dealer, look to be about $140 online if you dont mind waiting to get it shipped), but this is for the power hatch. Followed the procedure in the manual for setting it once replaced (manually close / latch the hatch), disconnect battery for 20 seconds, open then close with remote or dash button. Worked perfectly. For reference, I included a picture here of the flap for the release on the new unit. I could definitely unlatch it now without cutting that plastic open, but being the first time doing it, the manual wasn't clear enough about exactly where it needed to go to be able to do it totally blind. Everything else went exactly as noted in the Ford repair manual.
  6. Finally got it today, I had to go above that piece of metal. The window to get a screwdriver in is very short in height so its hard to line it up. I figured I'd post up here in case anyone else had to open it. 1) press the white cinch release button. If you look straight in the rectangular trim plug, you'll see a hole in the sheet metal just to the left of the bolt. Lay your head flat on the trunk floor and look at the very top of this hole and you'll just see the edge of this white button. Press it once with a screwdriver (it doesnt appear to have to be held while releasing the hatch, but it will permanently illuminate the 'hatch ajar' light on the dash unless you manage to get the hatch open and then re closed.) 2) stick your flat head screwdriver down into the flap almost at the bottom of the inside of the plastic trim cover. In the pic below, you'll see I tore the flap off plus cut left and right to see what I was working with. This is not necessary, I've shown the tiny spot the screwdriver has to go into. Once it's in, you just push left on that little bar to release.
  7. The problem is that's not a 15+. Mine looks nothing like that inside. The access hole is about half the height, and what's behind the hole is very different. Theres hatch sheet metal behind the access door, so the only way I can see to get to the latch itself is: A) through a 1/2" hole drilled straight inside (with a white button to release the cinch mechanism). B ) through what used to be a small flap at the bottom of the opening that you're supposed to stick a screwdriver in to release the latch itself. Theres nothing in there to move by finger. The manual says to use a 3.5mm wide screwdriver inserted on the right side of this flap (which is inserted 45 degrees angled down inside the outer access hole.
  8. Attached is the diagram I'm trying to follow.
  9. I've got a 2015 Edge with the power hatch which has gotten stuck closed. The left side appears to push out a bit when pressing the fob button, but clearly the latch is still latched and isnt allowing it to open. I tried to open it via the access panel per the repair manual instructions, but I cant seem get it open that way either. I found and pressed the white 'cinch release button' but I cant figure out what is supposed to slide in the lower release. Manual says to stick a flathead in the right side of the opening 10mm deep and to slide to the left 5 mm. I found the flap they're talking about, but there doesnt appear to be anything to slide inside of there, it's a relatively flat piece of metal that slopes away on the left half. I cut the flap off and cut the opening much larger (since it's all hidden anyways) and I still can't see anything that moves / slides. The flat piece of metal I see inside the hole has some slots in it much further to the right of the access flap, but I cant get that part to move at all. Any ideas on how to get it open? On a side note, I did try just taking it to the dealer. Ones earliest appointment was October, the other was a few weeks into September. It seems silly to wait a month to fix something simple like this. Thanks in advance for any thoughts/ suggestions!!
  10. Wow, no idea how you found that number, but thats exactly it. Hours on Google + 2 local dealers and I was at a dead end. Oddly enough, they didn't even want to sell it to me as they said "it's not even for my vehicle". Thank you very much!!
  11. I have a 15 Edge with the 2.0. I've got a P1450 code and have traced it down to the evap purge valve under the hood. Problem is, I can't seem to find the PN for the replacement. Tried the typical online parts sites, many of which show the cannister and valves in the back, but none seem to show this hose / valve under the hood. I went to the dealer, and they gave me BB5Z-9G271-B. This was not the right hose for my vehicle: -the valve was a different design -the valve bracket was different (90 degree bend, very short) -the valve to splitter hose was 90 degrees (mine is fairly straight) -it came with another T valve built in for 4 total hose connections (mine only has 3) -hose lengths in front of the splitter had incorrect bends and were nowhere near the right length. Any idea what the correct PN is? Car is out of warranty, and I don't want to pay to have it fixed as I've already found the problem and just need the part.
  12. It's not under warranty, hence why I'm asking here...
  13. Anyone ever have issues with the black trim panel between the windshield and front of the sunroof? Wife came home from work today and the whole center was popped up. She said it was making a ton of noise so she put on the hazards and drove home slowly. I found one white clip loose underneath it and it appears to still be attached on both ends, although I'm not sure how. Do I have to buy a new panel or do I just need replacement clips? Any idea how the ends come off? As we needed to drive it asap, I put a strip of black vinyl over it bridging it to the windshield to keep the wind from getting under it and causing more damage. Luckily the panel looks undamaged from the top other than just being loose from the body. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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