feelin edgy

It is easy to take off, but it will leave you with two holes in the front bumper. The holder is held on by two large pop rivets. If you drill these out from the front (once the plate is removed of course) The frame comes right off.

Sorry, that is just not a look I care for. I have been conditioned my entire life to try and keep the finish on my car from looking like that.

Sorry you didn't find this out first, but the ford sticker type protector is overpriced junk. The bushwhacker described in the above thread is great, and about half the price.

My wifes 08 AWD Limited gets 14-15 mpg driving in town, and 21-23 mpg on the highway.

It looks like BS to me.

What is wrong with factory bumper protector?

Old dog, the problems with the factory protector are that it is almost a peel and stick decal, and it does not extend over the lip of the bumper, leaving the most likely are to be damaged exposed. The bushwhacker product is thick and curves over the edge of the bumper.

You don't have the only Sport in the country.

There are MANY of them at every dealer so whomever told you that is misinformed or lying.

MOS, the poster is in the UK.

Sounds like maybe a wheel bearing going bad to me.

I find it odd that the 8 foot trailer is rated to carry a heavier load than the 10 foot trailer. I would check with your local uhaul guy and find out why that is.

That aside, I would probably get the one with the hydraulic surge brakes.

Leave it clean.

Why did you turn the traction control off?

the driver just lifts off the gas and everything is fine.

For everyone else in the universe, FWD is easier to control than RWD in low traction conditions, but not for wwest.

"..best car to handle.."

 

Not by a country mile...!!

 

Almost ANY R/awd vehicle or even a simple RWD wil outperfrom the F/awd Edge. If you must buy a F/awd then the Acura/Honda SH-AWD is the best of the best by a very wide margin.

wwest has F/awd phobia. His claim that a RWD car will outperform an awd edge is ludicrous. I can attest to the fact that it is nearly impossible to get an AWD edge to lose traction in any winter driving conditions available in the last two winters (two of the snowiest on record) here in Iowa.

There is no switch that needs to be turned on. Is it possible that the factory radio has been replaced with something aftermarket? That can kill the steering wheel controls if not done correctly.

I would have thought it was a snowplow going by.

We had a couple small shakes in Iowa last year.

Search the site for "brassing" and you will find posts about the problem you are having. It is not caused by salt. In my opinion, it is caused by heat.

I have one in my F250, and I installed one in my mothers Pacifica. The wife does not want to clutter up the interior of her edge with one. The install is very easy, and I find the picture quality to be very good. I got mine from Sam's club. It is the one with the 7" screen. They where on clearance for $45.

I have not heard the noise from the dash of my wifes edge for some time. I hope reading this old post won't bring it back.

I was surprised it took you so long to post wwest.

Here in Iowa, you can get a learners permit at 14. With it, you can only drive with a licensed adult in the passenger seat. My daughter has not done any driving since we got snow on the ground back in early December. She will get her drivers license in November of next year. I thought it was important to get her some snow/ice driving experience under adult supervision before she encounters it on her own next year.

We got about 2 inches of fresh snow yesterday afternoon, so i decided it was time for my 15 year old daughter to learn about driving in snow. We went to a large empty parking lot. I had her driving around in a large circle and kept telling her to goose the throttle in an attempt to induce a skid (the car is a 2008 Limited with AWD). Until we turned the traction control off, we really couldn't get the back end to step out. Once we turned the traction control off, it was no problem getting the back to swing out. My daughter could then experience what she needed to do to correct a skid. A little counter steering, and she was able to get things back under control. It was a pretty valuable lesson for her, and a pretty amazing demonstration of the value of the awd traction control system for me. I was very impressed both with my daughter and the car.

The 20" chrome clads on my wifes edge don't have the outer rim problem, they had large bubbles of chrome flaking off the plastic. We had one replaced last summer. I expect more this spring.

A short would cause the fuse to blow, an open ( bad connection in the socket) would act like a blown bulb.

 

Lots of discussion about burnt tail light sockets, did you notice any discoloration of the socket?

 

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?/topic/2594-does-anyone-else-have-burnt-taillight-lamps/page__hl__socket

 

ab

ablb, I appreciate your answer on this topic, but to the non technical world, any problem with a wire is commonly if inaccurately described as a short. I gave up correcting people on this long ago.

MOS, your and my experience have been very different on a couple of different matters. In my experience, all of the bulbs in either the right or left turn signal system are on a single circuit. I don't see how it is possible for a single bulb to blink faster and the rest of them to blink at the normal rate. The blinking is caused by opening and closing of a switch in an electromechanical device that is controlled by the amount of current flowing to the bulbs. This switch is either open or closed for all the bulbs at the same time. How can one bulb blink faster?

I agree with the other posters. I have only ever had a blinker flash faster when a bulb was burned out. Or as in the case of the OP, the bulb was not connected. I don't see how a bulb can indicate that it is about to burn out by flashing faster. Ohms law is what it is. The resistance will not change unless the circuit is broken.