Oranga

@Haz Thank you! I clicked the link and stared confusingly at the diagrams for awhile. Showing both the 1-piece and 2-piece options together is confusing as hell.

Hopped a curb in the car and looks like it ripped off the whole center underbody tray. I'm having a tough time finding a part number specific to our model, which is a 3.5L V6 FWD. But I did find the part for the 2.0L I4. Does anyone know if it will fit my car? Tray for 2.0L vs. Diagram for 3.5L (Doesn't even have a part number!)

As stated above, you might not need to replace them yet. Try to look down into the caliper and see how much pad material you have left. Yes, drilled and/or slotted rotors have no real benefit on a street car besides looking cool as hell. So you'll have to decide if its worth the premium over a standard blank rotor. FWIW, i paid quite a bit more for cross-drilled rotors on my BMW 335i and I always look at them longingly after I park. (Also, just to be pedantic, when you said vented, i assume you mean slotted. As in slots that are cut into the surface of the rotor. Vented means they have vanes inside of the rotors that help move air for cooling. Almost all disc brakes are vented.) Powerstop is a good brand, Stoptech too. I strongly doubt a Ford service center will touch parts that you bring in. Some independent shops might let you bring your own parts, others may not, so you'll just have to call around if you end up farming the job out.

Update: Fixed! Wanted to circle back on this in case anyone else experiences the same issue. I know I saw the suggestion to disconnect the battery for 10-20 minutes, but for some reason I just kept forgetting to do it. So I eventually remembered and did it the other night. And just like that, the remote start worked just fine again! It must have cleared some codes in the system - probably related to the battery dying and being replaced. Having a code reader to read and clear the codes would probably have accomplished the same thing, but I don't have one handy.

@Rob4652 Were you able to get this sorted out? I am experiencing the same thing myself. One important detail for me is that it seemed to stop working after the car's battery died and we replaced it. I can't say for certain that it stopped working after the battery change, because i last used the remote start probably a week or more before that. No open hood warning, the System box is checked under Remote Start in the menu, the key fob locks/unlocks and opens/closes the trunk. I think the only thing i didnt test is the Security Module fuse, which one is that? FWIW i tested the fuses under the hood and they all seemed good. I didnt get into the interior fusebox yet. I get 3 red flashes on the key fob when i try to do it on either of the 2 keyfobs. I'll change one of the batteries tomorrow. The battery was changed by AAA, i didn't double check them at the time because I am too trusting of people, but the new battery has 650 CCA, is that enough? I assume so because it is enough to start the car normally.

That is awesome, thank you omar302!

I'm in the same boat, the mirror turn signal got caught on the garage while backing out and the clear plastic housing broke. Light still works, but it's now exposed to the elements. Jsb2601 - were you able to successfully do the install? WWWPerfA_ZN0W - thanks for the extra steps, do you have a diagram of how everything goes together? The only thing i've found is this: https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-signal-lamp-ft4z13b374a/?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9b3V0c2lkZS1taXJyb3JzJmk9TVMxNTYxMDUmcj02JmE9Zm9yZCZvPWVkZ2UmeT0yMDE3JnQ9c2VsJmU9My01bC12Ni1nYXM%3D which is not particularly helpful. I also plan on buying the part at that link, is ~$55 a good price for the part?