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paker

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  1. Both are missing. Bought caps from O'Reily but didn't fit. Went back to O'Reily. They said what they sold me was the only one they carry. Are these caps model specific? Or manufacturer specific? I thought all R134a ports are same in size and shape. I guess not
  2. paker

    PTU drain plug

    Thank you forum members. I was able to complete the project with your help. Summary notes: 1. Buck Newby had another youtube video. Drawing for the exact hole location is in this other video. 2. I used a T-handle tapping wrench with both hands for the first 2 threads to ensure straight threading. The remaining was done with a socket and a socket wrench. 3. My drain hole is 1/8". I used 1/8" npt tap, 5/16" 12 point socket, 3/8" extension, 3/8" ratchet. Casing was at least 1/2" thick. For 1/8" plug, I tapped about 2/3 of the hole depth. No worries of shavings to enter the gear box. Thank you.
  3. paker

    PTU drain plug

    Found the drawing I was looking for. It is embedded in this youtube video at 2:40.
  4. paker

    Surprise in spark plug change

    Odometer read 94k miles. According to this forum, time to replace spark plugs. Bought spark plugs, PCV valve, and plenum gasket set as recommended here. Watched a few youtube videos. Front 3 were easy. Now rear 3. The coils wouldn't come out. Did twisting and pulling alternatingly. No use. Yanked really hard and they came out. Dropped 5/8" socket into the well to remove the plug. No engagement. What the heck is going on? Pulled out a mirror and looked into the well. There is rubber at the bottom! Apparently, the rubber boot was welded to the spark plug ceramic (due to heat and age I suppose). When the coil was pulled up, the bottom portion got torn up and remained in the well. What a mess! Beer time. I need to calm down. I remembered a dental pick set. Relying on the feel, I slowly detached the rubber from the plug post. After 30 miinutes all rubber pieces came out. Old spark plug gaps were between 70 and 80 mils, really worn down from 54. I thank the forum for recommending plug change at 90K miles. Could have been earlier like 70 or 80k miles. My next plug change will be after 70k miles. Lessons learned: 1) Be prepared for boot damage. Apply silicone dielectric grease to the boot to prevent boot-to-spark plug welding. 2) This video was most helpful except for a bolt in the far back (2:45) and an electrical plug (8:00). Both are missing in 2010. The electrical plug is apparently for heated PCV valve. 2010 has a non-heated version.
  5. paker

    PTU drain plug

    I am looking for the TPU drain drill location photo I have seen before here, but cannot locate it. Does anyone remember where it is? Thank you.
  6. 2010 AWD with navigation Info posted on Crutchfield is confusing. Recommended speakers are 5-1/4". But the photos of the door with trim removed show oval speakers (5x7 or 6x8). Which is the right size? Thank you. EDIT: This thread seems to answer my question. I am not sure if my 2010 has 9 speakers. Anyhow, according to this, 1) door speakers are 6x8. 5-1/4 or 6.5 will fit fit with adapter. 2) The OEM door speaker has a crossover for A-pillar tweeter. Thank you for the info.
  7. Thank you for sharing the information.
  8. I read about the ball joint socket getting loose on repeated ball joint replacements in pickups. But I have never experienced (limited experience based on 4 or 5 cars I have owned) the socket being loose after the original ball joint was removed. May I ask if this is your first hand experience with Edge?
  9. I watched MacT's video on the subject. There seems to be sufficient room to remove the ball joint without removing the entire lower control arm. I wonder if anyone has done it. Thank you.
  10. paker

    No hissing when coolant cap is opened

    That's smart, really smart. And I am much relieved. I really thought no vacuum meant a leak somewhere. Thank you for the explanation.
  11. paker

    No hissing when coolant cap is opened

    Thank you for the confirmation. Coolant level has not gone lower over last 2 months (of no hissing). By the way, it hisses when you open the cap while coolant is warm. The vacuum doesn't seem to hold as long as my other Ford (pickup).
  12. I don't hear a hissing sound when I open the coolant overflow reservoir cap after engine is cooled. On my other Ford I hear a hissing sound even after a few days of parking. Should I be concerned? I see no sign of coolant and oil mixing. No sign of coolant leak. Thank you. EDIT: Coolant reservoir cap was replaced a few months back because of no hissing. Still no vacuum leak sound.
  13. Rear going before front is out of norm imo. I would suspect lack of lubrication of moving parts. Sticky caliper sliding pins, caliper piston not retracting fully, etc. Were both sides (driver and passenger) worn about the same? Were both pads (inner and outer) worn about the same?
  14. paker

    PTU drain plug

    After reading multiple posts and watching "mact" videos, I am now convinced that adding a drain plug is the better long term solution. So here is my question for those who drilled/tapped the aluminum case. How thin/thick is the case? Is it thick enough to get 2 or 3 threads? Thank you.
  15. paker

    PTU drain plug

    I used the wrong word. I should have said oil level check plug. Thank you for the link.
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