Sanoa

When I purchased my 2013 Ford Edge Sport some time ago I did not know that the physical key is inside the key fob itself. When I got the key fob I noticed there was a portion that looked broken off but it was where the key was inserted. I didn't know it came with a physical key. The dealer told me that the car only needs a key fob to get in, start, open the trunk, etc. I noticed there was a keyhole in the driver door eventually and thought to myself that this is some retarded designing by whoever created this. Sometime after owning the car I began having battery problems. I was at work one day, went on a 15-minute break, walked to the car and used the key fob to unlock it but nothing happened. I tried to start the car with the fob and none of the electronice on the car was working at all. I knew what the problem was right away. The positive battery terminal was overheating for whatever reason and started to sink in the battery over time. I didn't think this would affect the electronics. I had the thought that what if the battery never works again then the keyfob would stop working as it did for that moment. I had this problem a handful of times later and realized that I need a physical key so I can get in my car. I called the dealer and asked how much is a physical key. The man told me that for my car it was $350 dollars. I was disgusted. Why would a key cost that much? It's only a physical key.

Does changing the cabin air filter really make a difference in relation to cold air in the cabin? I just can't see how.

When I bought my Edge last November about two weeks after the low oil pressure light came on and went right off when I pressed the gas at a stoplight. I got upset because I thought the dealer sold me a busted car. I know how serious low-pressure oil can be to your car. I knew it was actually the switch based on the fact that I am a mechanic with knowledge about the issue and I didn't need a manual oil pressure gauge to check it. When you are sitting at a light and the switch goes off repeatedly randomly, but then you press the gas to get up to 2000 rpm, or when you have it happen so much and then it stops for 2 weeks but then starts randomly again and you go under the car and see oil leaking from the switch, it might be the switch. I replaced the switch and the oil pressure switch connector because the wiring was soaked in oil and it was bad. The leak got so bad that I drove for 2 days while knowing the leak was so serious that I ran out of oil. I was doing some testing and I placed 5 quarts of cheap oil in it and it was gone in 2 days. You could start the car and watch a large puddle arise within 10 minutes. It was bad, but once I replaced the switch the light never came on again. I first replaced the connector and the light came on right away, but then replaced the switch and the light on the dash went away. At one point for a few days, the light stayed on the dash and I just ignored it. I did have a thought that what it this beautiful car did have low engine oil problems but then I was like Nah. Sometimes you think that you have a major engine issue but it's just a sensor. The oil pressure switch is one of those things that would make someone say that you should stop driving and it's understandable but it wasn't bad oil pressure, it was just a faulty switch which caused me about $50 dollars in oil loss and the switch was $13 dollars at Autozone. I bought the switch when the light came on 2 weeks after I owned the car and did not replace the actual switch until about 7 months later. Off and on the switch would throw the indicator on the dash but I just ignored it. Maybe I got too confident with my analysis instead of doing a check and chose to be lazy, but it was still the switch and nothing more.

What was the point of doing this? What role did it play in getting the AC to work as needed?

Can this be done by the owner or does it need to go to a dealer? I know this is an old post but I was thinking someone knows something about this that can give me an answer.