Dmtaurus

I like all bands but AM will always be a top choice. Yeah, Boss radio (Drake developed) was not only in LA but that format was spreading everywhere. Anyway, my 2013 Taurus has the same radio setup, no fender antenna like the '69 Mustang, and it pulls in AM just fine and the stations are clear, local stations, and distant at night. Why the Edge is poor is a mystery. But there has to be an antenna somewhere or the AM stations would not even work.

No, I haven't tried that. And I'm not trying to be rude, but I guess I look at it this way; the radio should work as well as the AM radio in a 1969 Ford Mustang, and it doesn't.

I finally got around to working on this. I bought a new Antenna Isolator Module. As written above, the upper liftgate panel needs removed and there it is to the left of center on the liftgate. I bought a used AM/FM1 Antenna Amplifier because Ford doesn't show it on the Ford parts website, so apparently it is not available. I removed the whole liftgate panel, and it is not on the liftgate. I removed the large right and left rear panels and the panels that surround the small, sail panel windows. It is not there. Maybe Wubster 100's illustration above is for another year or radio setup. Replacing the Antenna Isolator Module didn't improve the reception.

To Wubster, is the AM/ FM1 antenna on or near the rear small, left side sail panel glass and behind the big plastic interior wheel-well cover? Can you say where the amplifier is located? My first attempt would be to check the connections for corrosion.

Have a 2015 Edge SEL with the satellite radio. Satellite radio works great and the FM does too. But the AM reception is fair at best. I see the sail antenna on the roof and was wondering if that IS the AM antenna or is it somewhere else. I looked in a Ford parts catalog and it appears there is a $40 module in line. I am not sure where to begin. Any help is appreciated.

Another couple of things I like about the Denso part is the box says they are made in the U.S.A.; I applaud that! The second thing is the engine acceleration is so much smoother than when the Motorcraft units were in place. Now maybe the Motorcraft units were starting to wear out; maybe coils weaken over time rather than just quit; I never got a check engine with them. Nevertheless, so far I am happy with the Denso performance.

Well, I finally got around to performing further testing of the ignition coils. I reviewed everything that I could visibly see and also by using a DVOM to check across the plug terminals for any resistance differences. The meter showed meniscal differences in resistance readings. So, I decided to buy new coils and replace the originals from RockAuto after reviewing the offerings and the prices The spark ticking is now gone. The new coils are Denso brand and the housings are almost a carbon copy of the Motorcraft coils; even the mold numbers are the same except for 2 blanked number sets. Maybe Denso makes the Motorcraft units. Thanks for everyone's help.

No, I did not. That would be the next step, or, to buy a known good coil as a substitute test unit. One curious thing I noticed is that when the engine was cold, when I was doing the removing and re-installing of the coils, and next started the engine, that the ticking was gone and that it didn't come back until a later engine start up. The breakdown of the coil must be taking place when the coil gets warmed up. What I did find when looking into how the three-prong coils work is that a transistor is built into the coil that receives a signal from the PCM through one of the prongs to switch the 12 volts coming to a second prong, that is going to the wraps to build voltage to fire the plug. The third prong is a ground, my guess for the transistor to function. So what you said earlier makes more sense in that the breakdown isn't something you can see on the outside of the housing but instead takes place on the inside, where it is hidden under the encapsulant, and under a condition where the coil is somewhat warm.

Well, I removed each coil and used a 4X eye loupe to look for carbon tracks over the entire housing and in the receptacle entrance. I found no tracks or cracks. Each electrical plug at the harness appears to be in good condition. What I wonder is why there are three male prongs in the coil. There must be a dielectric test that is performed on the production line to screen for voltage breakdown, to make sure those coils are rejected before shipment. My guess is that one of the prongs is a ground; I don't know which one it might be.

My guess is that I should see carbon tracking around coil housing if the leakage is there.

Excellent hints. I will check the G110 ground too. I am curious about the capacitor; what does it look like? And I wonder if the 2015's had the same RNR capacitor.

All great answers; thanks. If I remember correctly the radio noise problem from my after-market radio days some 40 years ago, there were 2 major divisions between noise interference. First, whining signified that it was noise generated by the alternator and this would change to a higher pitch with increasing engine rpm. The second noise was a noise generated by leaking ignition wires or non-resistive spark plugs and the noise would change as engine rpms changed but it would not vary much in pitch. Mine is the second. I'll try to pull off the cover over the engine top and turn out the lights to see if any stray sparking around the ignition coils is taking place. I am stumped, though, how a bad alternator can cause poor reception. I have a 2013 Taurus and AM works great and pulls in the distant stations with ease. But the Edge has always been somewhat lousy on AM. And e2, you are right; it doesn't make noise on the satellite or the FM band. Their signals are clean.

Have a 2015 Edge SEL with the touch-screen, radio and HVAC controls. When listening to AM radio with the engine running, I hear a ticking sound from the speakers that varies with the engine speed. It is not a whine, like the noise that is generated by the alternator, but rather a ticking noise like the noise generated by a bad spark plug wire. Since it is a 2.0 with coil on plug, I am stumped as to what is causing it. I was trying to find grounds and I found one under the hood, on the driver's side towards the strut tower. I cleaned it's ring terminal and applied Never-Sieze, but that didn't help. I'm not sure where to look. Any ideas or TSB's out on this? It has the antenna for satellite radio, but an antenna for AM might be between the roof and headliner.

Have a 2015 Edge SEL, 2.0 Ecoboost, FWD, 86K miles, with what sounds like a bearing groan. I replaced both front wheel bearings with SKF units 1500 miles ago, so I don't think the groan is from them, and I don't detect any noise from the rear bearings. I have BF Goodrich tires on it and they are like new even though they are 2 years old. It drives straight as an arrow and tire wear is excellent. I was thinking bad front CV joints on the axles but they don't click or skip at all. Turning left or right makes no difference in the sound, like when the wheel bearings get loaded in a turn. Driving on asphalt or concrete doesn't change the tone or loudness. Then this thought occurred; the support bearing on the front passenger axle that is saddled to the engine block. 1, Do these go bad and groan when the miles accumulate? The groan seems to be coming from all directions, so it is hard to pinpoint the direction. 2. I see on RockAuto that the listings for this model make a point to say that the front axles are an updated design. What does that mean?

Thanks for the replies. While waiting for replies to my question, I took a close look at the Motorcraft photos on Rockauto and see that they are FAG bearings, and they are made in Slovakia. So, I took a chance and ordered the SKF bearings and when they arrived, they too said FAG on the hub. I can only deduce that FAG makes them for other bearing companies, depending if it makes sense from a business standpoint for both parties. I also wrote direct to SKF and was told that this model number is made in Slovakia, like the FAG unit. SKF also attached their warranty for this bearing, which appears to be 3 years or 45,000 miles, if installed correctly. I uploaded the document. I tend to think that they are a quality bearing because SKF is a renowned bearing maker for all types of applications. I have used them in past material handling projects and they performed well. Timken makes quality parts, but I was surprised they don't provide a replacement unit. Warranty.pdf