ThugFordEdge3.5

Sorry I took so long to get back. I guess it's completely normal. I'm assuming it may be a junction connector. Or at least that's what I found on another forum discussing that wire. I had gotten the code on that black plastic harness 33472-0723 And then did a Google search, and only one discussion about the wire came up, along with the actual harness connector plug for sale at a few sites. Here is the link to a Ford fusion forum that discussed this exact wire plug http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=9060&pid=145646

Where can obtain the wiring of that location? I think the whole situation got much more serious when I reached back there and all the wires in that taped up area are cut. I been getting some strange behavior from one of the dealerships. I called and spoke to manager about the vehicle taking a long time to warm up, and that was a month ago. Before finding these wires I felt like they where afraid to deal with my vehicle or go near it. It's been 30 days of excuses and told this and that. Also they where the ones who replaced my rear main seal. So I think those wires may have something to do with it. Somehow I'm not getting any Codes from it, so if these wires are important. Then whoever did the cutting, did it intentionally because they also did something else to block these codes. I'm hoping I'm wrong, but I don't think 3 to 5 wires just randomly go in Ford edges and connect to nothing lol

I tried that, nothing happened. Just strange to have wire not connected, but also no codes from it. I would think something would have been noticable by now. I do have the engine taking a long time to warm up when it's cold and winter, and this symptom goes away in the summer. So I've ordered a motorcraft coolant temperature sensor, Stant SuperStat Thermostat with gasket. Also ordered motorcraft cylinder head temperature sensor. I got intake manifold gasket already for when I remove the intake manifold. The coolant temperature sensor is faulty for sure. Just the other day I noticed this sediment at the bottom of the degas bottle, and I ended up flushing the coolant, but there is still some in there. So I plan on draining the coolant and removing all the parts and leaving thermostat out and going nuts on flushing using zerex super radiator cleaner, and then I'll use Thermocure and flush using hose for a while before running 80 liters of distilled water. I'm hoping to take care of this issue that's been around for 9 months. I went to 3 different Ford dealerships, and they couldn't come up with anything. I bought a diagnostic scanner and found the faulty coolant temperature sensor, and right after I found the coolant system full of sediments that is dry like chalk when I rub between fingers. Now I'm just hoping to figure out what that wire is. After all this I'm never bringing my vehicle to a Ford dealership again. I been chasing problems for 15 months. New one with each visit to Ford lol.

Here is a few more pics.

I have a 2017 Ford Edge Titanium AWD 3.5L V6. I was looking around under the hood the other day, and I noticed right between the battery, and the metal frame this 3 inch taped up wire with connector harness plugged in to another wire harness connector. It also is held in place by a push in type clip that holds it neatly in place. I've been able to find a picture of another edge. Not even the 3.5l V6 and I could see the plastic harness, but I couldn't make out anything else from the picture. So this wire seems common enough, and I was hoping someone will know what it connects to. I'll add pictures below. Also I should mention I had the rear main seal replaced a few months ago, and transmission was removed for this. So it could very well be some sensor connecting to the transmission, or one of the sensors around the drivers side of the engine. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Might be a little late, but I had that exact issue. The only difference is that is came from the passenger side front door. I figured out what it was..... small little rocks that go in this small open space right behind the mudflap that is behind the front passenger wheel. There is an area from where the front door begins, and the mudflap. When going faster these little rocks swing right up in there and then they do the bingo roll at highway speeds. I stick the hose to it and blast them out.

Very true. I think I meant the EVAP canister in the rear.

I'll know what it is for sure in a few days. I just ordered the Launch X431 V+ Professional diagnostic scan tool. The first thing I'll test will be the EVAP system, then fuel pump. The air hissing noise starts off low when the SUV starts for the first time of the day. If it's running for about 20 minutes or more it gets much louder. I wonder if that might be the EGR valve causing a build up of pressure from the suction.

Well, I figured out why I'm getting amazing gas mileage. I went in to grab coffee instead of drive thru, and I could hear what sounds like a full pressurized propane tank wide open leaking air just below the rear of my Edge. Basically the gas tank area. I'm assuming my fuel pump or fuel line is losing pressure. There isn't any gas leaking, just pure air sound coming out from around there. So I think that rules out fuel line leaking air. it might be the fuel tank ventilation system that's plugged up. I'll have to check it all out. I did notice that when I press the gas pedal I don't get the same torque as I used to. Slightly less power. That 35 MPG was unfortunately to good to be true lol

Ok, I just came back from driving around the city, and while driving I found the option your speaking of. I switched to MPG. I also hit ok to reset, and last 10 minutes of driving I got an average of 22 MPG but it was bouncing from 21.4 to 23 when I looked a few times. When I got home I checked before turning off and was at 22 MPG. Seems pretty good but it's really depending on how many red lights I hit. It's most likely gonna get worse as I sit in drive thru for coffee all the time lol.

I do have the trip 1 and 2 on. It's been calculating for couple months. Mostly in town driving with about 30 minutes of highway and it's at 14.2l/100km conversion in MPG is 16.56 MPG, and the newer trip 1 that's about 3 weeks old is showing I think 13.8l100km but I'm guessing it's gonna slowly get up to trip 2 at 14.2l/100km. I get horrible gas mileage in town. Is it possible one or 2 of my injectors are plugged or dirty causing less gas to be injected when going faster? Maybe that's why I'm getting such good results when going higher steady speeds. Or maybe cruise control activates the AWD less when it's maintaining a specific speed instead of having constant different acceleration inputs that usually activate the AWD. BTW, I don't think I have MPG calculation option on my 2017 Edge Titanium. It has pretty much all other conversions. Wonder if that's because I got mine in Canada? I'll have to check to make sure. If I have the MPG I'll certainly use that from now on.

It's was the inst fuel economy that I had on. Also pressed ok button for reset first. I'm just changing my rear differential oil today. Draining as I type this. 38,543 km and is it ever dark silver color. Looks like 500 ml total left in there. Supposed to be 1.1 liters lol. I'll say there is 600 ml since I can't get it all. I wonder if I'll get even better gas mileage after this.

It could very well be the wind helping out. I can't remember if I had watched the gauge both ways going and coming. I'll have to test that next time.

I pick the option called fuel economy. Not trip 1 or trip 2. It's looks like this after driving for 10 minutes on cruise control at 80 MPH. It's says fuel economy on top and then says average 6.8l/100km and I also press OK and hold down to reset it first. I'll add a screenshot of the example I found online just now. When I do the conversion to U.S miles per gallon it gives me 34.59 U.S miles per gallon. I do have over 3/4 of tank full of gas and lately I been using premium 91 octane, and I also use Lucas upper cylinder lubricant or marvel mystery oil in every gas fill up. I use 0W-20 Amsoil Signature Series with liquid moly Cera tec friction modifier along with K&N oil filter and Wix engine air filter.. First time using Cera tec friction modifier was in my last oil change 3 months ago. I still can't see these products making this much of a difference on gas mileage, but Maybe it's the combination of everything I'm using. I hope it's because everything is working great and not something that's about to let go lol. BTW, I have the basic duratec 3.5L V6 no turbo

I have been driving on the highway at different speeds with cruise control on at 70 MPH and then 80 MPH and also 90 MPH. I have the dash set to watch fuel efficiency and I get 6.8L/100km. That turns out to be 34.58 MPG. Now I'm not sure if the reason I'm getting such good milage would be because something is broken or not working correctly, but I don't think I've heard of anyone getting this before. Usual the milage is worse than the claim on the sticker. Has anyone gotten these numbers before?

Thank you, i been looking for a ages. I'll look into them for sure

Very true. I'll need to bring the local mechanics report with me to the ford dealership once it's confirmed the vibration isn't regular. I got bumper to bumper til September 19th 2020 and engine/ transmission for another 2 years. I think I'll change the camshaft synchronizer myself. I looked at a few videos on how it's done and seem easy enough.

It is still under warranty but the dealership in my city isn't all that great. I need to bring it out of town to a different dealership. It's a 3 hour drive to get there. So I was hoping to find out if this slight difference in vibration was normal. This way I could avoid the trouble. I might just bring it to a local mechanic before going to ford dealership.

My only worry is if this half sided vibration would cause more wear on rear main seal and other infernal parts. Also camshaft synchronizer that just started making a chirping sound a day ago. I've already had my rear main seal replaced and I only have 37,000 km on my 2017 FORD EDGE so I'm wondering if it's all because of this slight off sided vibration. It may be a small vibration but it must be making thing wear out faster and on one side faster... making things even more unbalanced. It's a V6 so it should be perfectly balanced since each side is exact. I do all maintenance myself and I take good care of it so it just seems odd that I already had a rear seal leak and now this camshaft synchronizer chirping away.

I have a 2017 Ford Edge Titanium AWD 3.5L V6. The other day I was looking over things under the hood, and when I placed my hand flat on top of the engine guard near the front end bank 1 while it was idling in park I felt hardly no vibration, just normal operation vibration. But when I slowly moved towards bank 2 with my hand constantly in contact with the top of engine with the engine guard in place i could start to feel more vibration going towards bank 2, and once i got there on top the bank 2 I can feel much more vibration then bank 1. It's not a fast vibration that has a tickle like to it, it's more of a slight shake that can't be seen with the eye, but felt only. I'd call it a shake that would be a vibration if lessened a bit. But either way it's noticeably shaking more then the front top of engine by bank 1. I also got under my vehicle while I was idling in park and I felt the bottom of Transmision where the flywheel black dust cover is, just beside it nearer to engine with my hand completely flat and I get almost the same vibration as bank 2 on top of engine. I then placed my hand under the oil pan and felt the same vibration there also. There doesn't seem to be any abnormal vibration like that anywhere else. Without having a second ford edge with the same motor with me, I can't really tell if this is normal or not, because if it wasnt for me actually feeling around I wouldn't of gotten any indication that something is off. Does anyone know about this or what it could be? If someone with a 3.5L V6 could feel the top of there engine next time there checking things out that would be greatly appreciated. 2 thoughts I'm having is a misfire, or worn out piston or pistons on that side of the engine that would be causing half the engine to have more vibration/shaking going on. I don't get any dash light warnings. Everything is running normal. If anyone has any advice or info on this I would greatly appreciate. Thank you.

I just had to email a few different places since they didn't post specs on websites. I checked summit raccing and they post from 2011 to 2015 ford edge with stoptech stainless steel brake lines. Seems odd to me since there isn't much visible difference between years in that area. Unless it's just the connector clamp that is different.

Good point. I'll check out the specs for the Stoptech ones online, and I may even send them a message to confirm.

The line that connects to the caliper. Most kits come in 4 lines and should be around 17 inches to 18 inches long and has 10mm Banjo caliper fit thread for the 2017 edge

I'm trying to find Stainless Steel Brake Lines that will be a custom fit to my 2017 Ford Edge, or at the very least a universal Stainless Steel Brake Lines that will fit without any issues. All I found was some Stoptech stainless steel brake lines for a 2015 Ford edge, but any ford edge year beyond 2015 i cant seem to find anywhere. Anyone know of a stainless steel brake lines that will fit my 2017 edge?