ThugFordEdge3.5

Actually I came up with best of both worlds, low viscosity and motul brand. Going to use motul Dot 5.1. Says it has lower viscosity that works great in cold, and great for ABS, and can use to replace Dot 4

Would they all perform in colder climate the same? I live in Ontario, Canada. One of the reasons I'm unsure about the motul RBF600 is how it would work in colder weather. The low viscosity is formulated to withstand cold temperatures without thickening. I would prefer motul if it doesn't get thick in cold temperatures.

I have a 2017 Ford Edge Titanium. I'm changing the whole brake system with stop tech rotors and power stop performance red electrostatic powder coated calipers, and I'm still looking for some stainless steel brake lines that are a fit to my 2017 edge. I'm trying to decide on what brake fluid to use. In the edge book it calls for motorcraft high performance low viscosity dot 4. Now im not sure how important this low viscosity thing is but I've narrowed my choices down to 4. I would think motul RBF600 would be best, but I have no ideal how it would preform in a edge, and with low viscosity recommended. I also live in Canada where it gets cold sometimes and i cant have fluid thickening in cold weather. The brembo low viscosity seems to be the better one for low viscosity, but I could be wrong. Price isn't an issue. Just looking to use the best and be done with it. Anyone had any experience using any of these in there edge or has information that would be helpful? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank u. 1 - Motul RBF600 Dot 4 2 - Pentosin Dot 4 Low Viscosity 3 - Brembo Premium Brake fluid Dot 4 Low Viscosity 4 - Motorcraft High Performance Dot 4 Low Viscosity

I have a 2017 Ford edge Titanium and when I change my PTU fluid i use front wheel ramps that are max 1 foot high, and the fluid should fill right up to the top fill hole on the PTU and actually slightly above the hole so it leaks out slowly. So half way in middle of the top hole and while it's leaking I hurry up to seal the hole. Now if u can have your SUV leveled on a lift or something, then it should be filled right up to the bottom of top hole. So fill til it leaks out, and just let it leak til its done and seal it up. That will be perfectly filled. The only reason i fill slightly more if on ramps is because the fluid moves back a bit and will cause it to slightly leak out when u remove top fill plug before removing bottom drain plug. It's best if u can do it with SUV leveled. This way u just fill til it bleeds and stops, then seal.

I have a 2017 FORD EDGE TITANIUM AWD 3.5L V6. It now has 35,500 km and I bought it 8 or 9 months ago when it had 32,760 km. I had the rear main sealed replaced 3 weeks ago. From the moment I got my vehicle back I noticed issues. First the coolant level was 2 inches higher and took 3 hours of driving to get it burped back to where it was. The engine temp was 89 Celsius at that time. Also AWD was shut off somehow, but got that fixed right away. Then the next day or 2, after SUV sat over 12 hours I used remote starter and it crank over about 7 to 8 times straight before starting. Its been doing this for 3 weeks now. If I wait 12 hours or more it has long cranks turn over before catching and starting. If I try starting it before 12 hours or less it starts right up. Only one time after sitting 6 hours only did it long crank 6 or 7 times. I also have a ticking noise that gets better as vehicle warms up. Pretty much goes away unless if you listen where exhaust manifold is, then it sounds like a diesel engine there. The ford tech removed the exhaust manifold in bank 2 by firewall in order to remove transmission and transaxle PTU. I'm not sure if he even needed to do that. He ended up braking 2 studs and drilled to get them out. I'm pretty sure there is a leak in exhaust because noise. I did notice after the repair that the oil level went down slighty and oil smells like gas. Temperature has been between -7 Celsius to -27 Celsius. Mostly -18 Celsius. Before this repair vehicle would start up in a flash by remote or push button inside. Another strange symptom the other day was when it was colder and I let my vehicle warm up 10 to 15 minutes and drove off and I could hear a slight growl coming from engine... almost like a ruff sound grinding. Hard to explain. But I felt as though the oil wasn't getting to the moving parts maybe. This actually happened once before when it was hot out in summer about 5 months ago. I never had it come back until just after this repair and starting issues and ticking noise. Any ideal what could be going on with this intermittent remote start long cracking time? The only time I tried push botton start is when its already started within the hour. So I don't know if this would still happen if I push button start instead. Also I've had the odd moment when I'm coasting and not touching gas peddle or brake before coming up to a stop, and I quickly feel SUV push forward slightly speeding up but stopping as soon as it starts. Like a forward spurt that happens fast and goes away and I'm left wondering if that even happened. This has happened since 7 months ago, maybe once every 45 days if that. I've also had couple times when I tried accelerating and it seems like it hesitates and has no power. But most of the time power is there and drives fine. I sent my oil out this Friday to Blackstone labs for testing to check if mechanic closed and protected exhaust hole when drilling, encase metal got in and this is a compression issue from damage? I do hear air leak sound when I'm looking under hood and engine is running. When I shut off engine with remote and I stand in front I hear air hiss as the last sound for a second. Another time I heard a winding down electric sound sort of thing. Kinda like a robot dying and running out of power. Or like electric motor dying Maybe. Was just odd. The oil was lower and darker it seemed. Also seemed thick to me but I'm not sure. I use Amsoil 5W20 signature series and was changed 3 months ago and only has 1300 km on this oil. System says 70% life left on this oil. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

I actually have the same problem. I brought my 2017 FORD EDGE TITANIUM 3.5L V6 AWD at 32,000 km. It's now at 35,175 km and I've only had it for 9 months. I been obsessively doing maintenance, and changing everything that is a liquid, and filter. When I bought it I didn't notice it had a rear main seal leak. The leak was so small that it didn't ever hit ground. Would only leak slightly 2 months after doing oil changes. Anyway I ended up getting it dealt with at ford dealership. The technician removed transmission, PTU, and he also removed the exhaust manifold completely. I told him he didn't have to remove the exhaust manifold, I tried telling him I think u only supposed to remove up to the exhaust manifold, but he keep on going on how the WSM work sheet material tells him he need to remove it. Anyway he ended up braking 2 exhaust manifold studs right flush, and he drilled them. Considering he wasn't even able to get my mud flaps on straight and with all the hardware, I'm pretty sure he made a mess out of this rear maim seal replacement. When I left the ford dealership with my edge after this work got done, my coolant level was rising high and looked very hot, but engine was at 89 Celsius only...this led me to think it's clogged somewhere or from drilling he got massive air in coolant system. Hoping he didnt drill through to the water jackets since there really close to those studs. Ive noticed a ticking a sound around throttle body, and 3 days after that rear seal got replaced, I now have a hard time starting my edge by remote starter of it has been 13 hours or more since I started it. It I start it before that it is fine to start by remote. If I don't start my edge in 13 hours the starter will turn about 8 times without stopping and will start on the 7th or 8th time when I use the remote starter. The remote just keeps turning and turning until starts. If I go inside the edge and don't touch the remote, and I push down the brake and push start button it will start instantly no matter how long it sat. But I think that is from the fuel pump getting primed by pushing brake down right? I'm not sure what's going on but I got ticking, problems starting, and seems like I have loss of power and slow acceleration. All started after that technician did the rear main seal replacement. Maybe that ticking is just the fuel injectors....a few people have told me it might be that. It's possible I'm much more alert and my hearing is sensitive because I'm looking for issues, and I'm assuming there will be so,e issues since ford technicians around here aren't intelligent at all.

True. I've actually driven off with one plugged in before lol

Does a 2017 FORD EDGE TITANIUM 3.5L V6 come with a block heater installed? I have that hole on the front bumper that has a flip lid and it does have a 3 prong plug in showing. I been plugging into that, but I'm not completely sure if it's connected to a actual block heater. Vehicle was bought new in Canada north of Ontario and it does get cold here. So I'm just wondering if that 3 prong plug on the front bumper means I have a block heater. I tried looking for where it would be in the engine but can't locate. Neither can I find a diagram anywhere online. Any information would be appreciated. Thank you.

Ok sounds like that might work. I'll look into it. Thanks

I have upgraded my whole brake system to Stop Tech Sport slotted rotors, akebono ASP performance pads, and Power Stop red coated Performance Brake Calipers. now im looking for SS Braided brake hoses but i cant seem to find any that are made for 2017 ford edge. I was able to find power stop ss brake hoses for a 2015 FORD EDGE only. The only brake hoses that are exact fits that I could find is motorcraft and dorman, but there all rubber. Does anyone have any advice on how I can get stainless steel braided brake hoses for my 2017 FORD EDGE TITANIUM 3.5L V6 AWD? If a direct fit stainless steel doesn't exist would a universal fit work just as good? Or should I just go with the Dorman brake hydraulic hose that is rubber? I'm looking for the best option. Price isn't a issue. I do have one manufacture that says they can build it but I haven't been able to reach them yet and I'm not sure if that's a better option. Any information would be appreciated, thanks.

I have a 2017 ford edge Titanium 3.5L V6 AWD that is white platinum and has only 32,000km. I have a chip type scratch that is deep to the metal. If you take a cigarette filter and cut it in half it would look exactly like that in shape.....maybe slight longer hut not much. For the time being i used ford motorcraft touch up paint pen UG for my exact model but it looks horrible. I called a paint shop in my city and they want to spot paint the chipped area and then clear coat that whole panel. The scratch/chip is right next to the rear wheel and on the rear door. So I assume they would be clear coating the whole rear door panal after paint the chipped spot. My concern is having that erea look much different than the rest of the SUV because the top coat will be newer and cleaner then the rest of the vehicle. Plus the touch up paint is exactly the same paint already on the SUV but it looks grey and not white like the rest of the SUV. Does anyone have any recommendations on how to get this fixed the best way that will look great? Besides having to remove all the paint on the vehicle and painting the whole thing. Has anyone had this type of fix where the scratch got painted and then the whole panel got clear coated? Where I live in Canada we have tons of road salt in the winter and this open metal will rust quickly. For now that pen paint is gonna help for rust.

I should be getting the Z23 kit anytime. Hopefully these don't warp like oem brakes. I did notice something recently. In the manual for the 2016 to 2018 they specifically say to torque lug nuts to 162 lb.ft. I looked into it and it's not a typo either. The usual for M14 x1.5 is 150 lb.ft on the F-150 but I'm wondering if the reason I got a warped rotor was because I torque them to 162 lb.ft 2 months before one of them warped. It seems the reason for the extra 12 lb.ft is because the F-150 has 6 lug nuts and ford edge only has 5. I guess the extra 12 lb.ft makes up for the lack of one. I'm not sure how precise my torque wrench is but I did put it at exactly 162 lb.ft on the setting. So possibly could of been 10lb.ft more who knows. I might just go to 145 lb.ft on these new rotors.

Sorry, I should of quoted. I'll resend msg below this msg Does the Z23 kit come with blank rotors? I was looking on Amazon but only shows slotted and drilled.

Does the Z23 kit come with blank rotors? I was looking on Amazon but only shows slotted and drilled.

I was thinking drilled and slotted would help in preventing warping from happening. Helps eliminate water, ice and keep cool. I'm sure that helps with warping issues. A few times in rain I got warped rotors. I may just get slotted to help remove water and snow, ice. When I think about blank rotors I just imagine ice rotating around rotors and staying wet. But when i think of a grove, i can see how it would help grab ice, snow and water and direct it outwards. What do you think? I could be wrong. The drilled holes aren't necessary and I can see how it should weaken rotors but I was thinking slotted may have a benefit as a cleaning help.

Been looking at rotors and pads to go on my 2017 Ford Edge titanium 3.5L V6 AWD. The stock ones on it don't cut it for me. At 33,000km there pretty much done toasted. I bought it at 30,000km so possibly the owner before me drove the brakes hard. But still seems fast to burn through the rotors. The back rotors are just a bit less then a 1/4 inch thick and one of them is warped. I need to hit brakes a half a block away from red light so I can come to a normal stop. A few times I had to smash the gas down to go through a half yellow and red light because no way was I gonna be able to stop lol. Anyway I'm looking at Stoptech, Power Stop, and EBC. I was specifically looking at the Power Stop Z23 evolution sport performance brake kit or I was looking at StopTech premium Sport Drilled/Slotted Disc rotors with EBC yellow pads or EBC green pads. Im in canada and we get 6 months extremely cold and 6 months extremely hot. So I'm looking for brakes that bite cold and hot. My only wish is no noise. I can't stand noisy brakes. Dust is fine. I'm a bit worried about the yellow EBC pads for noise, and I'm not sure if they would work in cold weather. So does anyone have a good pad recommendation? One that would work best in my environment? Price isn't an issue. I know semi metallic pads are best for cold but I think they would be noisy for sure. I don't race or track. Just do some long highway traveling from 8 hours to 20 hours driving and plenty of city driving, stop and go. Looking for best performance without noise and cold some decent cold bite and hot. Seems hard to get something that fits in this area. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Thank you. That would be great.

I looked everywhere online and the only thing I find on fuel pump being primed is when vehicle door opens that when it primes some fuel pumps or when ignition is turned. The only other thing I can think of is brake fluid being pumped into brakes for a safety thing, encase engine shuts off and you need brakes. it's vacuum air being pumped in so brakes work maybe? Although I'm not sure because I can't find anywhere that someone has that question or issue being asked about strange noise in the rear when pressing brake with engine off. It sounds like the emergency brake releasing but the problem is that this noise happens with my emergency brake already activated.

I actually thought that also. I had my vehicle at ford dealer today getting straps on the gas tank to stop sloshing gas in tank. When I went to start my edge it stalled quickly after pressing ignition, but I think I pressed brake and quickly after hit ignition button. So maybe the fuel didn't have time to prime itself and after they played with the tank it may of left air spots. I'm not sure, but for some reason I only noticed that sound today after they did that TSB strap assembly on the gas tank. I do have a hissing sound near gas tank for last 2 months and I think it's my fuel pump, but each time i tell ford about it they tell me they can't hear it. I'm assuming there in the vehicle and aren't stepping out to hear it. I'm gonna be buying a fuel pump and paying to have it installed. I'm under warranty but pretty much done with my local ford dealer lol. They have 4 mechanics and all under 25 years old looking. Every time I go there I have other problems.

I don't know if this is normal or if this noise has always been there, but today I noticed when I get in my 2017 Ford Edge and I first press the brake before pushing ignition button, I hear a noise in the back that sounds like something disingaging or engaging. It sounds almost exactly the same as when the emergency brake get disengaged. After I press brake when vehicle off and noise happens I can't repeat it and get the noise to happen again unless I start vehicle and turn it off again. Then when i press brake before hitting the ignition button I hear this noise again right before I start vehicle. Does anyone hear this also and knows what it is?

I think it may be gear oil coming out of the ptu vent. I did clean it off and so far so good.

Noticed some yellow clear oil around this black plastic peice near the transmission underneath my 2017 Ford edge titanium 3.5L V6. There is 2 Plastic looking screws holding it in place and that black peice was really loose also. Had to tighten it. But I'm worried about where that oil is coming from. I changed the ptu oil about 2 months ago the only other thing is I got done was krown rust proofing done about 5 months ago. There isn't any oil anywhere else but here it doesn't leak on the pavement either. It's just stays how it is in the pics. The dealership fixed my emergency parking brake the other day and replaced the cable. Anyone know what that black plastic part is and why oil is around it and on it?

What I ended up doing is using 50/50 orange motorcraft coolant. I drained out about 5 liters and filled with 50/50 and ran the engine with heat on for about 15 minutes and rev here and there at 3500 rpms and then I drained again and repeated. I did this 2 times and on the 3rd time I left it in. I will do a flush on the next change. The tap water here is 45mg/L and one of the lowest in Ontario.