vtchopperdude

Ford Edge factory floor mats out of my 2013 Edge. Will fit 11-14 Ford Edge models and 11-15 Lincoln MKX models. We have the heavy duty rubber mats in the car and never use these. This is the full set in black carpet. Excellent condition, no stains, rips, or tears. $60 OBO. Local pickup only. No shipping.

For anyone who has this problem in the future, here are the part numbers they replaced: DT4Z19980H: HVAC control module DG1Z18495A: HVAC heater control solenoid assembly 7T4Z18476A: heater core assembly VC3B: anti-freeze top off R&R HVAC module, heater core, and trans cooler valve The trans cooler valve, or heater control solenoid assembly, or whatever you want to call it, was the root cause. It was about $100...

Finally got the car back today!! All said and done, I paid $1523 out the door. That included replacing both blend door actuators (not the problem), replacing the HVAC control module (not the problem), replacing the clogged heater core (not the real problem), and replacement of a valve (real cause of the problem). They had to pull the dash completely apart, and in the process, broke the trim around the touch screen, which is about $500 to replace (at their cost). So, all said and done, the job was about $3k total, but because they misdiagnosed the problem TWICE and had the car for 2 weeks, they gave me a $750 discount, and are covering the $500 broken plastic piece. Long story short, I spoke directly with the technician. Apparently there is a valve connected to a hose that goes into the transmission. If that valve fails, it lets debris into the heater core, which causes it to clog. I'm not really sure of how the design works, but essentially a $100 part fails, which causes a $3k repair. Seems like a bad design to me. All in all, the dealership took care of me when it came to final cost, considering the multiple failed attempts at properly diagnosing the problem, and breaking interior pieces along the way.

Well...they called back yesterday and said even with the new HVAC module, it's blowing intermittent heat. So, as suspected, they are saying the heater core is clogged. I've already paid $430 for replacement of blend door actuators and the HVAC module. They are saying it's going to be an additional $1059. Does that seem about right? Or am I getting bent over a barrel? I know the dash has to come out, so it's time consuming, but if that's what is required to be done, I'm ok with paying that, but hope they aren't taking advantage of me since THEY misdiagnosed the problem after I told them I changed the blend doors and reset the system.

They called back yesterday and said the HVAC module itself is bad. They are going to order it, and replace on Monday. I'll let yal know if that cures it...

UPDATE: Took car by dealership this morning. Told them that I already changed the blend door actuators and reset the system multiple times. They called around noon and said the blend door actuators are bad. I told them I highly doubt that but according to them, their diagnostic tool said that both actuators had faults and that the system couldn’t be reset until they were changed. I show up after work and they said it’s all fixed. I paid almost $500 dollars and NO CHANGE!!!! I went back in and they said that 2 different technicians checked it. I told them to come out and see for themselves. They said they’d figure it out tomorrow.

My wife came home for lunch, and I had her keep the car running. I checked the hoses going into the heater core. The bottom hose is extremely hot to the touch, and the upper hose is only luke warm. I'm not sure what the orientation of inlet vs outlet is, but does this tell me anything? Of note, still no heat, and when I turn the temperature all the way up to HI, the airflow seems to become restricted and doesn't change temperature.

Coolant level right on the mark where it should be. Engine temp right in the middle once up to temp and stays there. No overheating issues.

Well, stopped by the auto parts store and picked up some new blend door actuators. Installed both of them. No change!!! So, I pulled them back out, and had my wife sit in the car while I manually operated the linkage. To my surprise, no change in temperature!!! The only thing that seemed to change was the amount of airflow, but the temperature didn't change any regardless of where the linkage was. So, unless my Edge is the only one built that way, then something else is wrong. Those blend doors didn't do anything for the temperature. So, my problem must be further upstream. Thoughts?

It's odd.....so it's like they aren't calibrated correctly to the desired temperature. For example, after doing the factory reset, I turned the system off, and then turned it back on. For the first few seconds it blew extremely hot air, like I expected, then it turned cold. So, in my mind, the actuators are initially at the correct setting, then adjust themselves incorrectly. The actuator just listens to commands from the HVAC system right? It's not like they are binding...they are just moving to the incorrect position. I've done the factory reset several times, but is there a calibration mode? Thoughts?

Welp, back to only cold air today. So, resetting the blend doors didn't last. What would be the next step? Obviously they work physically, but they aren't moving like they should when the temperature is turned up to warm.

Ok, so the reset didn't seem to do anything. However, I unplugged both actuators with the car off, then started the car, then shut it off, plugged them back in after 2 minutes of the car being off, and started it back up, and now it seems to work. Hopefully this is a long term fix...

I am able to get my HVAC to reset, but it's still not blowing HOT air when on max temp. It's only luke warm. I do notice that as I turn the heat up, less and less blows out of the passenger side, and the drivers side only remains luke warm. Is this a blend door issue, on both sides?? This is my wife's daily driver, and she just uses the butt warmers when it's cold, and doesn't really use the heat. But when we took a trip a few weeks back I noticed that the air wasn't really warm, even on max setting. So, having done the HVAC reset multiple times, what am I looking at? Blend door replacement? When the system is resetting itself, I hear the actuators moving, and nothing sounds like it's binding. I also checked the cabin filter and it was fairly clean.

A few weeks ago we started having issues with our air conditioning. When I turn the heat all the way up, the driver side blows cold and the passenger side blows somewhat hot. Is that an issue with just the driver side, or both?

Yep, tried 3 times. Drove it around the block, cleared, then came back. Drove to autozone, cleared it, then it came back. Drove to advance auto, cleared it, then it came back. With the hard start after fueling, the purge valve issue seems feasible, especially with the "stuck rich" verbiage in the code. Thoughts?

For anyone following this thread, it is related to my other thread involving low oil pressure light coming on. The codes I pulled are: P2196 - O2 Sensor Signal Biased/Stuck Rich, Bank 1 Sensor 1 P219A - Bank 1 Air-Fuel Ratio Imbalance I replaced the O2 sensor which cleared the P219A code. The P2196 is still there, and from research and symptoms, it looks like it may be the evap canister purge valve. I also get hard start issue after filling up the gas tank...

So, it looks like I need part 9U5A-9G866-AA, which seems to be very hard to find. I tried all the local automotive stores in town and not only do they not have it, but they can't get it. I'll try the dealership in the morning, but I have a feeling they'll have to order it. If the valve is the issue and truly causing it to run rich, then I don't want to keep driving it and foul up the brand new O2 sensor.

Ok fellas, so I changed the O2 sensor and it cleared the P219A code. However, I still have the P2196 code. Looking at some other threads, it sounds like my symptoms (hard start after getting gas) may be pointing to the canister purge valve. However, I can't seem to find the part for the 2.0L. I stopped by Napa and they have the canister purge valve for the V6 engines, but not the I4. But again, the 3 symptoms of the leaky purge valve (hard start after gas, running rich, and rough idle) are occurring on my Edge. Any advice on this? I do NOT have a code for a leaky canister purge valve however. Thoughts?

Ok, you guys are AWESOME!!! This is why I love forums; helping each other diagnosis problems. Soooooooooooooo...................the car has been doing this shutdown almost once a day now, and my wife is afraid to drive it. So, I drove it to work today. It started fine, no issues, and drove to work without issue. I started the car fine at lunch and drove to a gas station to fill up. After the fill up, I hit the start button and the starter just cranks over and over and over and over. No start. I try again, same thing, the starter just cranks, and cranks, and cranks. I sit there for about a minute pondering what is happening. I try again, and it cranks, but stumbles to start, and then finally kicks over. I drive it home. As I'm pulling in the driveway, it shuts itself down again. This is where the oil pressure light comes on. My wife has just given me the run down of " the oil pressure light comes on and then the car shuts down." I think you guys are correct, in that the car shuts down, which triggers the low oil pressure light, which tricks you into thinking that's the issue. With that, I pulled the codes. I get 2 codes. P2196 - O2 Sensor Signal Biased/Stuck Rich, Bank 1 Sensor 1 P219A - Bank 1 Air-Fuel Ratio Imbalance With that, I guess I'm having an 02 sensor issue that is giving an incorrect reading, and messing with the mixture. Again, this shut down issue only occurs at low speeds when slowing down and the car is essentially idling. With that, am I just looking at swapping an O2 sensor here???

Ya, it shuts itself down every time. I’ve read on some other forums of people having the same issue and same symptoms but haven’t figured out why.

And no, it doesn't seem to have issues after an oil change. We got the oil changed, and drove it about 2k miles without issue a few months back.

That's my initial thought, but after adding oil, and changing the switch, we're still having issues.

No. The low oil pressure light comes on, and as a safety feature, the car shuts itself off. After it shuts itself off, I shift into park, and it will then start right back up with no low oil pressure light on, and drive fine. If it were truly sustained low oil pressure, the engine would have grenaded itself 20k miles ago.

The check engine light on our Edge will come on for a few days, and then clear it's self, and be fine for a few days. This pattern has been pretty consistent for the last 6 months or so. I've gone to Autozone multiple times to pull codes and then clear them. The code that keeps coming up is for the air/fuel ratio. Has anyone had this issue, and what's the fix? The car seems to drive fine and perform normally when the check engine light is on with this code, but it's just annoying to see it come on, then a few days later clear itself.

We've owned our Edge for about 1.5 years now and love it! But...........we keep having issues with the low oil pressure light coming on, and shutting the car down while driving. I've changed the oil pressure sensor twice now, so I don't believe it's a switch issue. Oil changes don't seem to affect it. The only real pattern that we've noticed is that it happens when slowing down and turning. For example, my wife will turn into our driveway, and the sensor will go off, and the car shuts down. Or, she will be pulling into a parking lot, and it will shut down in a slow turn. So, I figured it was low on oil, so I've added oil several times after it happens, making sure not to overfill it, but it doesn't seem to solve the issue. Once the car shuts itself down, it will start right back up with no warning lights on, and drives fine. It almost seems like an electrical issue. I haven't taken it to the dealer because there is no check engine light on, and my local dealership charges a $125 diagnostic fee just to look at the car!! We're not at that point yet, but it's becoming frustrating. Has anyone had this issue??