gwhamilton@gmail.com

I have a 2013 Edge with brake problems. I changed the front pads and rotors about a month ago with no issues. About 2 weeks ago I noticed a soft brake pedal. I do have brakes but it takes quite a bit more travel. One additional odd fact is about once every day or two I get a very short and very light ABS feedback on the pedal while braking. This happens at about the half way point of pedal travel (normal brake engagement position). With the engine off, pumping the pedal gives a hard pedal at the normal pedal travel position. I have a bi-directional scan tool and I ran the ABS Special Functions test of the module and found no errors. I was also able to exercise all of the valves on the ABS module with no improvement. I had the master cylinder and booster replaced at a shop about a year ago. Is this something with the booster again? The shop used a Ford booster because they say they have bad luck with aftermarket. I’m not sure of the booster job is still under warranty. I can call and find out but I’d rather fix it myself if possible. Any idea on how to proceed? I have 2 screenshots from the scan tool but not sure if they are connected. One is ABS temp and the other is “State of booster vacuum…”. Temp seems high if it really is brake/fluid temp. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

So today I get aP2196 and P2197. The car was stumbling at a stop light every 30 seconds or so. It stalled once. I was able to run the ABS bleed test with a bi-directional scan tool. No help there. The pedal did go to the floor during the test which I don’t think is normal. I did hear a squeal when pushing the pedal about half way down. Anyway, I looked up the codes happening together and the first thing o read was a torn booster diaphragm. I don’t want to throw parts at it. Am I on firm ground replacing the booster?

So tonight I tried apply about 17in of vacuum to the booster vacuum line looking to see if I could generate any brake assist. II measured the vacuum with my vacuum pump gage. I know there wasn't any flow but wanted to start low. I didn't see any change in pedal feel so I increased the vacuum with without a any pedal difference. I took all of that off and started the car. I put my finger over the hole in the intake air duct. I couldn't feel any vacuum. Since that's where the vacuum for the booster comes from, shouldn't i be able to feel some kind of suction? I will go after the booster if I can be sure that's the problem. Any ideas?

I was able to get the booster vacuum line off. Item 11 on the pic above is accurate. From the plenum it goes to the booster. I wasn't able to get the valve off the booster but plugged open end. When blowing on the end of the tube, I didn't detect any leakage so I think the line and check valve are good. What is odd is while driving, I can press down slightly and get a little braking. If I increase pressure, I can "push through" the firm pedal and the brakes will grab. I can modulate pressure and slow the car. It is workable but I want to fix this. I have done the booster "depress pedal" test. With the engine off, I don't feel any power assist, the pedal is rock hard. When I start the car it doesn't really move. Is their a way to apply vacuum directly to the booster to actually test the booster?

I finally was able to bleed the brake with parking brake cycling. The flow was bubble free but the problem still exists . I am over the miles for the booster replacement by Ford. It seems like the pedal is easier to push while in park vs in drive. Does that sound normal, I guess I never noticed. I am wondering about the booster line check calve. This is also buried but I'll take the battery out for more access. I am wondering if that line goes somewhere else other than the booster. I got this image from Ford. I was able to remove one end and blow in it, it sounded like air was coming out somewhere. Should the check valve prevent this? I'd appreciate any ideas and I'll post my results. Thanks

I’m looking for help with my brake issue on a 2013 Edge. This might be lengthy bit I want to put out everything I know. My initial problem was a soft pedal. It would go down smoothly and easily almost to the floor. I didn’t have much braking until I almost went full stroke. Seemed like a master cylinder. I had no external leaks. Talked to a few friends and got a consensus so I replaced the master cylinder with a Motorcraft part from rock auto. I bench bled the cylinder and installed. I vacuumed bled the brakes. Now I have a pedal that gives me slight deceleration as soon as I press the pedal and as I increase the pressure it becomes pretty firm without much more deceleration. It then takes a good bit of pressure to break through that firmness and I get more breaking. With the car off, a pump or 2 and the pedal is rock hard about half way down. I looked around online and read something about needing to actuate through emergency brake during rear brake bleeding. Is that a thing? Could that be my current problem? Any other ideas? TIA. greg

Hi All, I'm new to this board. I have a 2013 edge. It just did struts and rear shocks last summer. I noticed a noise seeming to come from the rear before I did the shocks. When I turn into a parking spot I hear what seems like a tire scrubbing noise from the back. I cant determine where or what is causing this. A mechanic friend thinks it could be rear CV joints. I plan to use chassis ears on the back end and will try to isolate the noise. Could be the rear diff, wheel bearings or CV joints. Any other directions I could go?