Perspective

SOLVED: the battery junction box was replaced and now both fans are working and everything seems to be working fine. Don't know why the it went bad but it did.

Well, thanks for all the help. Yesterday I started my car and some sensor warnings came on and I had a low voltage code for some of the PIDS. I believe power steering and brakes or something was showing low voltage. The e brake didn't work either. After the car ran the warnings went away and brake started working but after a short drive and then parking at idle the temp started to rise. I also noticed the 32 relay would click from just touching it. After trouble shooting some of the wires I could tell something wasn't right at the fuse box but had to accept that this electrical stuff was out of my skill set and took it down the road to my local auto electrician. He quickly determined that the junction/fuse box was shot. I'm guessing this might be why I have had to replace the 38 fan relay twice over that last two years. It's been awhile since I've had to pay someone else to fix my car but thankful for the online help.

Thank you. I really appreciate your help.

Thank you, very helpful. Thanks for the links. I have no reason to suspect water pump at this point and coolant is within parameters and I have only had to add a little bit over the 80k miles I've owned this vehicle. I guess I can assume the low speed isn't working since I see it triggered but nothing happens and when high-speed triggers the fan comes on. I received P0217-00 Engine Coolant Overtemperature Condition for the overheat and P0481-00 Fan 2 Control Circuit. It runs fine now and no codes so I am unsure if there is even a problem anymore. I did buy a new relay and nothing changed and also swapped relays. If I pull the 38 relay the fan will stop so I know/think it has something to do with the 39 relay circuit. I noticed the fan has two wiring harnesses. One obviously for the power and I am guessing the other one is multiple different signal wires for the variable speed is this correct? I should probably test those for continuity. Do you know which fan is considered fan 1 and 2? It seems like you would want the passenger fan on with A/C since it is in front of the condenser. I just checked the COOLPMP_A_STAT on forscan and it says "Short to..." which is either "Short to GND or Open" or "Short to Power" according to forscan.

I have a 2015 Ford Edge 2.0 with 109,000 miles and the other day I had to replace the battery. The next day,my wife was driving it and it overheated and the A/C was warm. As soon as it overheated it corrected and ran fine. When I got home I started it and the cooking fans wouldn't come on. The next day the drivers side fan comes on with A/C. I purchased the OBDII Bluetooth scanner and downloaded Forscan. When run the car and turn on the A/C I can see the low speed fan come on within the app and I can feel the 38 relay click but no fan. Shortly after I can feel the high speed fan come on in the app, feel the real 39 click and the drivers side fan comes on. After this, the 38 and 39 relays click together and only the drivers side fan comes on. I checked continuity of both fans, and wire between relay 38 and fan and 39 and fan, checked continuity of all three relays, and I have tested the fans directly off the battery. In the past I have had issues with the the 39 relay getting stuck and the fan staying on after the car is shutoff. The car runs fine now. Any ideas? How do these fans work? Is one fan high speed and one low speed? Or are these fans multi-speed depending on circumstances? When should the driver's side fan be on? I ordered a new Motorcraft fan from Rock but don't really want to use it if it isn't the issue. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

PROBLEM SOLVED: So this was definitely the problem. I went to my local Ford dealership and provided the part number but you had to buy the entire vacuum hose system. He told me he didn't even want to tel me the price. I went to my local parts store and just purchased a length of rubber vacuum hose and installed. Drove it for a while at steady speed and no issues. I believe the leak was preventing enough pressure to overcome the turbo pressure on the wastegate that would build up at steady speed. When driving around town there was enough adjusting the throttle to not build up pressure.

So I did find a very clear vacuum leak but need help identifying the part. It is the vacuum line that goes to the left and circled in the below photo. Does anyone have a good diagram they can look up the part on? Not visible in the photo but it is cracked on the underside and hisses really bad. Not sure if this would affect the turbo but I figured it probably isn't good anyway.

Thank you! Ended up getting P1016 wastegate Control Pressure Higher Than Expected with a recommendation to replace the turbocharger wastegate solenoid. Finished this afternoon and it seemed to fix the problem. Last night it did it again but I was able to prevent by not maintaining speed. Seems to only happen when I maintain a higher speed for a while.

2015 Ford Edge 2.0 eco-boost. Hello, today I was driving my edge with a full tank of gas and was cruising along at 67 mph and my wife reminded me it was a 70mph zone. I tried to accelerate and it down shifted but wouldn't speed up. I figured out that if I accelerated slow I could get it to 70. I decided to stop and turn off the car and restart which fixed it. After driving about 20 minutes at speed it did it again. After restarting again it ran fine but the engine light came on. It seems the transmission is working fine but there isn't any power until I restart. When it starts to have the problem it won't accelerate at any speed. The auto store reader could only get a generic code. Anybody got any ideas. I'm thinking maybe MAF. Feels like a fuel/air issue to me.