Sunnyorlando

I just posted this update in another headlight thread. May not work with 2016, but sure does with at least the '17 and on with HID. BTW - good quality LED bulbs have come a long ways, and with the newer ones having the LEDs positions line up with the respective halogen elements, they do work pretty good to align with the reflectors.

As posted early on, I was not happy with the HID headlight illumination in my Edge Sport with HIDs. I wondered why Ford had not made use of the already provided high beam position and instead applied only a DRL function. It would have been so simple for them to keep it as a high beam and DRL.

So - This is a follow up to my previous post regarding how to make use of the existing H15 and HB bulb position as a high beam. After some initial looking into it, I  dropped the project due to time constraints, and I am now following up on it.

I was finally able to dig into this and complete the project and it works - Awesome!

Anyone who is not happy with the factory illumination from the HIDs headlights and the restricted DRLs now has a solution. And it is an awesome result and I am very happy with it.

The H15 LED must be a good quality one that has the LEDs lined up in the correct positions to match up to the H15 elements. And many of the newer LEDs now are doing this, so there are choices. Do no use just any H15 LED - this is critical to make proper use of the reflector in the headlight to the light disperses properly

I can see things now !

Attached is a document with detailed instructions on how to do this, and it is quite simple.

 I hope this helps some.

Cheers!

2017 Ford Edge Sport DRL-High Beam Mod 02052024.pdf

I'd be interested in this too.

2017 Edge sport 2.7

Why would my check engine light come in when either traction control or ABS activate? When this happens, either the traction control or ABS indicator flashes as it should, then engine light comes on.

This has happened 2x now. The last time I reset the light via ForScan. This time I'm going to wait to see if it cycles off.

Either way, I'd like to know if there's more to this. 

Any feedback on this?

Thanks

Thanks Bofus..

Both shocks replaced by me - its a simple job as you may know, and I am quite experienced in mechanics. They are not OEM, but they are Monroe (37378) spec'd to OEM (probably makes the ford OEM as the look almost identical) for the sport model. I didn't got with FoMoCo/Motorcraft because well, at 70k mi they were done and had been for a while from what I can tell. So I thought Id try something else. Although is possible that the new shocks could be bad, having the exact same issue on the same side probably rules out the shocks.

The parts reused from the old shocks are the boot and the stopper rubber at the top which looked in perfect condition.

I did a visual inspection of the bushings, sway bar mounts and related wearable parts - all looked good an nothing out of place. As to a restriction/binding, yep, thats possible right? But I did not have a way to test that movement. I may have to take it in to a shop for a full inspection.

I was looking to see if this was a familiar issue with this model.

And I agree, it does fell like a bad shock - but what are the chances of the same issue on the same side with new ones?

Tires look good, aligned and tracking perfect .

I have been trying to figure what is going with my rear suspension.

As I travel in a straight line of around wide turns, when my rear suspension hits a small series of bumps of imperfections on the road, the rear 'dances', 'hops' or 'chatters' (thats the best desc I can think of) to the right no matter what direction the curve is. It's not noticeable when you hit just one solid bump, but when hit a series of small ones in a row, like ripples, that's you  really notice it. There is no noise anywhere otherwise, the suspension sounds solid and the car runs smooth on local roads or highway speeds otherwise. Its just when hitting a series of ripples or bumps.

Logic said to check shocks, so I did and I noticed the factory shocks (~70k mi) were seeping. I figured that was it... So I replaced both rear shocks.

The issue did not change, it continues hopping.

Any experiences with this? Thoughts...?

Thanks

My '17 Sport has a Sony audio system that actually sounds pretty good. Good enough to crank it up and get great sound. I like music loud when the sound quality is good - this one can handle it. Just recently I was listening some great tunes when I decided to take up up a notch... And we'll, I was at 28 already (display reading) and took it to the max which is 30. It's still sounded great and without any distortion, so I could have taken it up further and I know the amp is capable of it. However, 30 was the max.

Having been in the audio industry in the past, I'm familiar enough with amps, speakers and head units to feel comfortable that this system can handle more.

Being that this is all software driven, I'm thinking that this 'max' level is software limited and not an actual amp or head limitation.

Anyone here messed with is setting in Forscan? I'd like to believe there's a mod somewhere to allow a higher max.

Thanks!

9 hours ago, Emayers04 said:

 

Yes there is... but its not in an easy access spot. You'll have to drop the headliner in the rear near the lift gate. The sunroof motor is back there. You will see 2 motors, one for the Vista roof, and one for the fixed glass shade. The vista roof motor is the one closer to the passenger side. The center of the motor is a hex socket, I think I used a 4mm hex key to rotate the motor manually... much like a garbage disposal when stuck. I have attached 2 photos. First is of the location of the motor under the headliner, and second is the hex socket for the manual crank. 

 

Thank you! This is good information that one hopes to never use. I have in the past with another vehicle and it I found it in the owner's manual, though I have not seen it in this Edge's manual - I may have missed it, or maybe Ford doesn't think it will even be needed - thought they did include the hex hole.

On 1/29/2020 at 10:49 PM, omar302 said:

 

Just to confirm, this works on the Edge, I have had it enabled for more than a year. Only to get the mirror to dip while in reverse, you have to select the mirror side using the mirror adjust controls (you can select it even while already in reverse), then that side would dip Press the other side and then it would dip and the other reverts to normal. Also, on my Edge, the Instrument cluster does not show the option for the mirror dip setting (enable/disable).

I can also confirm as well that it is available - I just enabled it on my '17 Egde.

I am wondering though how to set the actual position desired into memory, because otherwise it just tilts down all the way and I have to adjust it back up - defeating the feature.

1 hour ago, redden18 said:

Do not forget you can overheat and thus melt your bulb housing if using two filaments at the same time...

Moreover, you should think of power draw and about the sourse of additional power supply.

How it is done by Ford I think is reasonable...

The dual filament issue is a non-issue because the DRL goes off when the lights come on. So that leaves the high beams operating on the one filament when the high beams are on, and those housings were originally designed for high beams.

As to the power, using a relay you get the power from a good source which can be from several places - that's not a prob

The trigger for the relay is a very low draw and it can be done from any source in the headlight that activates when the high beam is selected, like from the HID high beam flapper thing.

Frankly, I have built many circuits for electronics and I have never had an issue doing so. I definitely need better headlights than those HIDs, and this might be the solution.

1 hour ago, omar302 said:

 

On my 2016 Edge, I remember there are only two wires connected to the bulb connector. Ground and DRL. Are you saying yours has 3 wires? If yes, then that's different and my statement above would then be wrong or not applicable to your Edge.

Yes, that is correct. I'd think there's a way to get power to it from the existing wiring.

Else - barring that I think can make a simple circuit using a relay to power the hi-beam when the HID triggers the eyelid/flipper that opens the HID for the pseudo hi-beam. There's enough room in the casing to have a small relay just sitting in there.

I think that adding that would improve the overall illumination on the road between the two.

1 hour ago, omar302 said:

 

Physically it's not possible because the high beam filaments of the inner bulbs are not connected. That bulb on HID equipped 2015-2018 models is a H15 bulb. A two filament bulb designed for DRL and high beam. Only the DRL filament is connected electrically. 

 

 

Did you install LED front turn signal bulbs? If yes, that's your issue and you have to disable "hyper flash" or "bulb out", not sure exactly what's it's called. The fast flashing happens when the vehicle detects a turn signal bulb is out, and when regular bulbs are replaced with LEDs, the difference in current makes the vehicle think the bulbs are out. 

The part about the fast flashing to let someone know that a bulb is out is something I'm familiar with. But since no bulbs are out I was wondering what could have caused us to start.

And no, I have not installed any LED turn signals. I did not change anything related to turn signals or illumination other than changing the number of flashes, at least that I recall. I will go back and look at the suggestions you're talking about the hyper flash and bulb out indication.

As to the DRL and high beam, yes it has an H15 in it and there are three wires going through the connector to the bulb. Are you suggesting that the high beam wire on the other end is not connected to anything?

You'd think that Ford would have wanted to save .005 cents for not running that wire there if it's not going to be used, imagine what that would save and weight on the vehicle..?

Thanks

33 minutes ago, redden18 said:

He refers to firmware flashing on different modules.

The best obd device for that is ELM27, the other devices may cause problems.

The other mods people do via Forscan are relatively safe and can be done by wide range of obd devices.

 

Thanks for that explanation - I'm taking it at the type of ODB device is somewhat of a personal choice/opinion apparently, because also I've seen 'don't use an ELM'.

@vegawhat kind of 'programming' are you referring to? The mods listed here with Forscan? Are you saying not to use Forscan with an ODBLink?

I bought the ODBLink MX+ as recommended here.

Thanks

After the modifications that I did today,

I've come across something odd.

First -

So far the mods made above are working as expected.

Then - the turn signals / lane change blinkers.

While they actually work as intended, meaning the number of flashes increased to four instead of the default 3, I am now getting a rapid flashing on the indicator in the dashboard, but only there. The actual indicators outside of the car are blinking at the correct rate. Sometimes the first couple of blinks will be at the correct speed, but then it changes to a fast blink, again only on the indicator in the dashboard. The outside flashes correctly.

I don't believe that the other changes I did  would have an impact on this issue - but you never know.

Any suggestions on this are appreciated.

Thanks!

I kind of figured it may have been a beta version, but when I didn't see it on the site then I wasn't sure. Often beta versions are offered to be downloaded.

After the search box, don't know whatwas happening. So I uninstalled.and reinstalled and now it's there.

I've successfully tweet some of the settings on some basic things only while I familiarize myself with a tool.

Things that have worked for my '17 Edge sport that are from my original list are:

> Rear wiper swipe when in reverse if front wipers are on.

> Lane change flashing turn signal from three to four flashes

> Side mirrors tilt on reverse

> Roll up windows with remote

> Emergency horn from remote control from one click to two clicks. This was annoying because I already accidentally turned it on with one click several times. So I'm glad I was able to change that one.

That's all I've played with for now. Now that I understand more about the tool I'll be working on trying to get some other features set up and see how that goes.

Q - anyone know if the halogen high beams can be activated to complement the hid high beam? Currently the halogen high beam is used for DRL only. I'm wondering if it can be activated so it comes on with high beams because the hid high beams are not really all that good at all by themselves.

Thank you all.

@omar302 how is it that you screenshot shows v2.4.3 but the Forscan site is on 2.3. I don't see the search box in 2.3.49 (current v as of 11/18/22)

Well thanks... Ive searched quite a bit and had not come across this site.

I've asked about availability.

On 10/31/2022 at 1:19 PM, onyxbfly said:

 

Peep the first post. Option 4: Obtaining free 2 month trial extended license.

Ok, I have my ODBII MX3 ordered.

Please clarify above - 'peep' which first post? I went to the first post on this thread but nothing matching what your comment.

I found it - first post at the Forscan site - duh!

Thanks!

28 minutes ago, enigma-2 said:

https://www.oemfordpart.com/oem-parts/ford-handle-outside-ds7z5422405aaptm

 

Spray it with the correct paint. This may not be your exact color as there is no R3 that I can find, but other Reds are available on this page.

 https://a.co/d/iBZP91X

The R3 color is Burgundy Velvet Met Tint CC.

I'd prefer to wait and hopefully find one rather than try an odd color red. And its the handle, not just the keyhole cover.

On 11/9/2022 at 12:35 PM, omar302 said:

 

They are not. The fronts have antennas and sensors while the rears only have sensors. 

I see - thanks for the clarification on that.

I'm looking for a front L in R3 color. I've found all other doors, but not driver.

On 6/18/2019 at 8:11 AM, Special_K said:

 

@snmjim Should be able to help you.  but the fronts are easy as pie, its the backs that are a straight up PITA.  you have to remove the intake box, rear turbo inlet, and then use skinny hand powers to get them out.

I'm looking for this as well. I looked at 'snmjim' posts but it appears to be about parts, not the procedure. I don't mind digging in, but I'd prefer to know what I'm getting into first.

Is there a more detailed explanation or video on changing these spark plugs on a '17 Edge 2.7? I have found many videos on line, but none (yet) on this particular engine and model.

Thanks

'17 Edge Sport - Does anyone know if the front and rear handles are interchangeable for each side?

6 hours ago, redden18 said:

I guess because everybody knew that since Sync 2.

Well, even you all knew, I didn't because this Ford is all new to me. But thanks.