lalondem_98

After the repair I poured Penzoil high mileage full synthetic oil and poured 2 bottles of "Kleen-Flo Engine Flush 350-mL" to flush the engine. I let the engine run about 30 or 40 minutes and then drained the oil and threw away the oil filter. The noisy engine is currently running 5W-20 Valvoline high mileage full synthetic oil (I went with Valvoline since there was a deal on it).

I will consider it, definitely an option during summer time in Quebec....would be risky in winter. Any people NOT running 5W-20 in their Edges?

Ford Edge 2010 around 150K miles. I am the at least the third owner and the care was poorly maintained....nevertheless the engine was running fine before the water pump failure. I replaced myself the water pump, the timing chains (primary and secondary), the chain tensioners, the chain guides (including the revised guide with the chain running on top of the guide instead of underneath), the oil pump, the timing chain cover (I broke a corner on removal of the old), crankshaft gear, cams gears, valve cover gaskets and seals, engine flush. I did not change the phasers and the VCTs. About $800 in parts (bought at rockauto, ebay and ford dealer only the timing chain cover)... I am not that interested in calculating the exact cost! PS: the car starts fine, runs fine, does not leak a drop of oil but there is low oil pressure, there is a rattling noise and I have OBD codes P0022 and P0012.

thanks for your reply. I will keep it until it dies in its present condition! Seriously, I will try putting 5W-30 instead of 5W-20, remove my plumbing setup and keep the original oil pressure sensor screwed into the block. I started to get OBD codes P0022 and P0012 which means camshaft over-retarded and could be caused by low oil pressure at the VCTs. If ever the engine is ruined it means it did not survive to almost all of the coolant mixed with the engine oil due to the water pump. Prior to the water pump failure the engine was running fine.

Edge SE 2010. Just before the water pump failed there was a moment where the engine sounded like no oil was circulated so when I replaced the water pump and timing chains and also replaced the oil pump (Melling M390, rockauto). I understand that it is very possible that the oil-not-circulated noise was due to coolant in the oil but at 230000Km and "being there" for repairs it made sense to change it anyways. When I finished the repairs I wanted to prime the oil pump and crank the engine without having it started by using the fuel shutoff switch however it was too painful to disconnect it and I was eager to start the engine so I forgot about priming, turn the key and it started right away and a huge smile was seen! Here is my first question: is it possible to have air trapped somewhere? either in the pump or the passages? I drove the car around many times so it if could eliminate by itself it is done by now. Nervous about the oil pressure I installed an aftermarket oil pressure gauge (2 in. LED Oil Pressure Gauge) but I had to do some plumbing with a 1/4 male NPT bar or block with a 1/4 female NPT and a 1/8 female NPT; the ford oil pressure sensor is connected at the end of the bar or block in the 1/4 FNPT, a 9 inches high pressure hose is connected in the 1/8 FNPT and at the end the Titan sensor is connected. See the 2 pictures. Remember the smile above? Well there was none this time when I started the car....the oil pressure light in the dash is constantly lit and the gauge reads 0 psi; the engine is running fine but noisier than usual...giving the impression oil is lacking. I get it that my custom setup is making both sensors to report no pressure. Anyone ever installed an aftermarket oil gauge? I also forgot to mention that the initial Ford oil pressure sensor failed and flooded the area around the alternator , and the alternator itself too and the engine stalled... I could not restart it until the next morning once the oil has dripped out.

Having a V6 3.5 liters in your Edge you will be faced with a water pump malfunction sooner than later...I would say by 150000 miles at the most....if you are a good amateur mechanic (you have patience, attention to detail and dexterity) it is an "easy" job to do with leaving the engine in car. There are plenty of youtube videos on it. Here are my pointers: - The power steering pump can be removed by unbolting its 3 bolts without doing a subframe unbolting....you need medium hands at the most and lots of patience and be able to work by feel, blindly. There is a video on that on youtube. - Having a good jack with a piece of wood under the oil pan....you have to lower the engine to remove a long bolt...a jack that would allow to make very slow lowering is reassuring in order to not let the engine lower fast and put pressure of the other engine mounts or have the ac compressor hits the frame. - Removing the fender helps when you are leaning to handle parts in the front engine area. Removing the power steering reservoir as well as the coolant and windshield fluid reservoirs helps for space when handling the timing chain cover removal and install (named also front engine cover). - Be attentive to the timing with the RH cam dot at 11 o'clock, the LH cam dot at 1 o'clock and the crankshaft dot at 4 o'clock. One trick I did to re-assure me was to pause a video where the timing was said to be correct and take picture of the camshafts and compare cams position with mine. Also make sure cylinder #1 was at TDC by sticking a long shaft in the spark plug hole and rotating the crankshaft. Have a camshaft locking tool to have peace of mind that camshafts are not moving once the timing chains are being removed and while they are removed. - It is a no-brainer to change everything while you are at it: timing chains, tensioners, chain guides, even oil pump. A high volume oil pump is probably not a bad idea. I did not go as far as phasers except for their bolts.

Anyone knows if a proven belt length has been established when the ac compressor is bypassed? I have a feeling the belt will almost touch itself at the belt tensioner so I did not take a measurement with a wire, yet. Edge SE 2010.