Grey

Today I returned my Royal Purple 5w30 to the parts store and swapped it for RP 5w20.

The parts guy said "why in the world do you want to swap 5w30 for 5w20?".

I tried to explain about cSt and such, but I could tell that he didn't have a clue.

Good call.

Most people think that oil thins at high temperature. It is more correct to consider that oil thickens at lower temperatures. Years ago, manufacturers specified different weight oils for summer and for winter operation. Back then, engine operating temperature varied with ambient temperatures.

Today, our engines are designed to operate @212 degrees F, in Florida and Alaska. They are designed to operate with an oil having a cSt value of about 9 at that temperature regardless of ambient temperature. Thus we always want an oil that has a cSt value of around 9 at 212 degrees.

The purpose of a 0W or 5W multiviscosity oil is to reduce oil thickening at lower temperatures. Oil is always too thick at start-up. We would like to have a cSt of 9 at start-up, but oil thickens much more than that at lower temperatures.

So, stick with 0W20 or 5W20 to help reduce engine wear at start-up. The cooler your ambient temperature, the better the argument for 0W20 or 5W20 full-synthetic. And, let your engine warm up before going full throttle, especially on cold mornings. Remember, high pressure doesn't = lubrication, Flow = lubrication.

As for rings not seating properly by switching to a full synthetic @1,000 miles is false. Porsches, lambos, vets come with mobil 1 from the factory. :

So what - those engine cylinders are honed differently and the ring design is different.

Too slick too soon can lead to cylinder wall glazing and barrel shaping of the rings. But, do whatever you want. It probably won't hurt a thing. At worst, the outcomes will only be more oil consumption, lower compression and fouled plugs.

Grey -

Thanks for all the informative input.

Where did you find the cSt spec for the Edge engine?

Royal Purple is rated at 11 cSt @ 100c for the 5w30, and 8.7 for the 5w20

A. From the Ford Powertrain and service engineering groups. They work together to develop the specifications for service oils - which they translate to Motorcraft 5w20.

B. Correct - 11 cSt is too high for optimum lubrication and cooling at operating temperature.

BTW, as much as 90% of engine wear occurs at start-up. You want a low cSt value at 75 degrees (not just for fuel economy.) If you are in the far North, (sub-zero conditions) look at 0w20 oils that meet the Ford Specification.

Good oil pressure = lubrication. Wrong. Good flow = lubrication.

High ambient temperatures require thicker oil. Wrong - engines are designed to operate at a certain temperature range. The oil specified for that operating temperature ties to the engine cooling strategy and the clearances built into the engine design.

It's hotter in Florida than it is in Detroit - - - If your engine is operating a 212 degrees F, it doesn't matter if it is Detroit or Death Valley. 212 degrees is 212 degrees.

Out engines are designed to an oil viscosity value of 8 or so at operating temperatures. A 5w30 oil will have close to 11 at 212 degrees. That restricts flow, reduces lubrication and usually contributes to overheating.

Ask your guy to call Ford Engine Engineering or the Motorcraft Service Engineering group to see if it is ok to recommend something to owners that they don't recommend.

If it doesn't meet the Ford specification M2C930A - don't use it.

What exactly is "cargo management". I have it on my Edge and all I see is.... nothing in the back? Is it supposed to be the spaces around the spare tire after you lift the cover up?

Yes. You can store cleaners, detail spray, cloths, glass cleaner, jumper cables, tools, etc. in the plastic storage bins around the spare tire. Units without the bin option don't get the tire cover or bins - just foam spacers around the spare.

Ford has a full synthetic 5w20 oil. Wait until you have rings seated, etc. before you change over to full synthetic (unless you are operating in a sub-zero environment.) 5-6,000 miles will cover the break-in.

Do not put a 5w30 oil in your vehicle - only 5w20 or 0w20. Our engines are designed to operate at 212 degrees and need an oil with a cSt value of 8- 9 at that temperature. Your oil is integral to the lubrication and cooling systems of your engine. The only time you might justify a 5w30 weight oil is when you are consistently operating your engine at 300 degrees (heavy towing or all out racing). For 95+% of us, you can't beat the Semi-Synthetic Motorcraft 5w20 oil.

Lubrication is a customer responsibility. Most of the time when there is a lubrication related concern, it is customer responsibility - run low on oil or coolant, lack of maintenance, wrong products used (oil and/or filter), etc. Receipts from the corner luber or parts store won't help you if you have a sludged valve train, burned out bearings, etc. that obviously came from improper products or maintenance.

If you have the corner shop do your maintenance, ask for a copy of their warranty. You might need it if they don't use products that meet the Ford specs, forget to actually change the oil or filter, double gasket the filter and cause you to run out of oil, etc. If you trust they will replace an $8,000 engine if they made a mistake, then use them. If a Ford dealer makes a mistake that costs an engine, they are more likely to stand behind their work.

Here is a question to ask the Oil Experts that try to tell you their oil is better than the Motorcraft oil:

How many times did you test your formulation against the Ford Specification before you got a "Pass"? If 9 times it failed and one time it passed - they call it a good formulation. The Motorcraft oils will pass every time, every batch.

Out of warranty, do whatever you want, but I don't think you will find anything better than Motorcraft products. As I recall they have a national $10 consumer refund on a $39.95 oil change with tire rotation. Protect you engine and add life to your tires for $29.95. :happy feet: :happy feet:

1. Ford is not going to declare bankruptcy!

2. The imperial federal government has said they would back the warranties if any of the car companies went out of business.

3. Ford is not going to declare bankruptcy!

Oh yeah - Ford will survive even if the others fail! :shades:

Usually plan on 10-12 weeks for the Edge. The plant has had, and will have some down weeks, so that adds into the estimate.

If the dealership has allocation and you did not order any commodities that are controlled (or in short supply - like 20" wheels) then April should see it built and possibly delivered. Dealers can check for updated status on Fridays in the States -I assume it's the same system for Canada.

I just bought a 2008 MKX.

The rebate was $5000 plus an additional $1000 if you own any non Ford Co. vehicle.

Of course you do. They don't ask you to prove it. They just want to sell the car.

In addition you get a tax deduction for the sales tax on your 2009 taxes. Even if you don't file long form.

Doug

I bet the Ford field manager would love to talk to your dealer. Want to share their name here?

Per the Owner's Manual:

Easy entry/exit feature (if equipped)

This feature automatically moves the driver’s seat rearward 2 in (5 cm)

when:

• the transmission is in N (Neutral) or P (Park)

• the key is removed from the ignition cylinder

The seat will move forward (to the original position) when:

• the transmission is in N (Neutral) or P (Park)

• the key is placed in the ignition cylinder

Easy entry (if equipped)

This feature automatically moves the drivers seat backwards for easy exit

from the vehicle.

1. To disable/enable the easy entry

seat feature, select this function

from the SETUP control for the

current display mode.

2. Press the RESET control to turn

the easy entry seat ON or OFF.

Good luck.

Electrical circuits (including most of the ones added by installers for trailer wiring, etc.) are fused, so I doubt it was tail lamps. More likely than not, it was caused by some kind of accident - fuel tank rupture, brake line rupture, etc. or something the driver was carrying inside the vehicle. You would be surprised how many times somebody thought they tossed a cigarette butt out the window and it landed back inside the vehicle. Not a good situation if you are carrying flammables.

We may never hear the outcome of this one, but I would not worry that we have a design flaw that could cause an on board fire.

You are on the correct path to correct the concern. Warped rotors are another issue.

If you perform a hard stop from highway speeds and hold the brake pads against the rotor, you can warp your rotors. Why? - because you can build up to 1,400 degrees from the friction between the pad and rotor. If you permit the rest of the rotor to cool while holding the heat beneath the pad, this will encourage warping.

So, what do you do? - After a hard stop, roll the heat out of the rotor by inching forward to prevent the pads from holding heat on one spot on the rotor. This may require you to come to a stop 8 to 10 feet before you actually run out of forward motion room. (One tire rotation will take about 8 feet).

Alternatively, put the vehicle in park and let off on the brake if you have no room to go forward or backward to roll out the heat. Once you learn the technique, you will find yourself leaving room on most stops to roll out the rotor heat. (PS - Pads and rotors will last much longer.) :happy feet: :happy feet:

Sorry you have had this problem. The lemon laws in most states will provide the dealership and Ford a final repair attempt after you file. 30 days and 3 repair attempts only qualifies you to file for lemon law consideration.

In this instance, looks like the dealership is responsible for the repair. In the meanwhile, enjoy your service loaner and don't get overly stressed. I'm sure the technician is sorry this happened also. He/she is likely eating many hours to fix the problem.

I've just purchased a 2008 AWD Limited - very happy so far.

 

A question about the auto headlamps . . . Is there a way to always have the headlamp on even during the day in the auto headlamp mode? I'd like to have them on all the time for safety reasons. Thanks in advance for any guidance on this.

 

Tom

DRL's (daytine running lamps) are set by the lamp control module - not the auto headlamp switch. Your dealership can reprogram the lamp control module for DRL. Search the threads and you will find several different experiences. Most dealerships will charge you an hour of labor time to reprogram the computer. If you had made the reprogramming part of the purchase agreement, it would have been cheaper or free.

Canadian vehicles are already programmed for DRL's.

Thank you very much, I was hopeing not to have to use the dealer but if i have to i will!

Most major markets will have an authrized radio repair station. Call your dealer's service department and ask where they send their factory radios for warranty repair/exchange. Most do installation of video systems, nav systems, etc. using factory approved installation kits.

The sales department of the dealership may have relationships with aftermarket audio/video installers that are independent of the Ford authorized network and their components (and the installation) would not have any Ford warranty coverage.

The cabin air filter for the Edge is Motorcraft part# FP65. Get one and replace it if you have one already or install it new, if you do not. :shades:

Once you have settled on the plan you want, print out the quote and take it to your Ford/L/M dealership to see if they will match it. If there is a contest going on (trip for the F&I Manager) they may be willing to meet, or beat, the price.

Also, ask the Service Manager if he/she would get the plan for you at the quoted price (or better). They love ESP.

Call around and talk to other Service managers and F&I managers - some woild make you a deal just to make you a customer.

Remember that the dealership has to pay an extra $100 per contract if you are over 1 year or 12,000 miles.

Incentives vary by zip code, so don't assume you can get somebody's deal that is out of your market. Atlanta has $2,750 (or 0%) + $400.

There would be more money on a 2007 Edge - check the fine print.

I tried to install 16" Mountaineer rims on my Edge and they would not clear the brake caliper, so it looks like you are restricted to 17's or 18's.

They have a 4 1/2" bolt circle as I recall.

The 2007 was SEL Plus and the vehicle was changed to a Limited in 2008. The description in the computer was not updated. It affects nothing, so don't give it a second thought.

RPMs will fluctuate as the compressor cycles on and off.

If by "cuts off" you mean the engine dies and must be restarted, it is learning and resetting the idle speed (the computer is adjusting for temp, fuel, etc.) The computer is looking for optimum fuel economy and sometimes has to richen up the fuel mixture to avoid stalling.

I wouldn't worry about it. This can happen when new or when coming off a long trip.

More picky than most, I would guess.

However, I washed mine Wed. and I once stayed in a Holiday Inn Express. :happy feet: :happy feet:

I would not worry too much. Your computer is learning your driving style and is still setting the idle speed. I question the tech will find anything (codes, etc.) Don't make a special trip. :shades:

Also, with leasing - get the sale or trade-in value before your lease runs out. If it is worth more than the buy out price, you may want to buy it out and turn around and trade it in or sell it, pocketing the difference.

If you do extensive mods on it, you could be charged extra to return the vehicle to stock condition. That can be avoided if you buy out the vehicle at the end of the lease - same with excess miles.

I leased the MKX and will be faced with the turn-in or buy decision next summer. Since it will have very few miles (15,000 or so after 2 years), it may be worth more than the buy out price. (I hope!) :happy feet:

The dealership will not need the PIN - (can't use it). Tell your buddy to cancel it and reissue to another friend when the family plan deal is over.