Grey

Gorkem, the date on the invoice is usually the beginning of the week when the vehicle will be produced. On occasion there will be a slip to the following week. Once the vehicle leaves the plant, it is in the hands of the transportation companies. They will load train cars and trucks to maximize their delivery schedules without any regard to order dates or priorities. Shouldn't take more than a week or two unless there are complications. Every order and dealership situation is different. Trying to gauge by somebody elses experience is futile. In my experience, salespeople push out the estimated delivery date so you will be pleased when it comes in earlier. Like I said in an earlier post, May 17 is only your order date. The clock does not start until Ford accepts the order as clean and able to be scheduled (controlled by allocation, commodities and dealership placed priority.)

Ford updates the scheduling system on Thur. evenings. Call on Friday mornings and ask them to check status for your order.

Ford accepts and schedules a new vehicle order if: The dealership has allocation There are no commodity issues (options in short supply) There are not orders in the system already from the dealership If the dealership has not given a later order a higher priority than yours! The dealership knows what their allocation is. They know what orders are in the system, They know what is in short supply and what priority they placed on your order. If your salesperson is not telling you the real story because they don't know, they should ask one of the managers. Many will try to suggest it is a big mystery, but dealerships control scheduling (within their allocation). If a dealership has allocation for 10 a month, and you placed the 21st order, you may wait 2 months for scheduling. Don't try to go by somebody elses experience.

Ask your service advisor to run an Oasis report on your VIN with the warranty history. That should tell you if there had been warranty work done in that area of the vehicle (plus any other concerns the vehicle has had that were addressed.)

Anyone found a proven solution for poor reverse lighting yet?

It is the dealership's responsibility to assist with any issues you have. If they need assistance from Ford, they can call the technical hotline or ask for a Field Service Engineer to contact them. It is very risky to try to diagnose a vehicle over the phione or internet. When an engineer gets into a problem, he/she will ask if certain tests have been performed, the condition of components, readings from diagnostic routines, etc. Engineering needs a qualified technician to provide this and a lot more information, depending on what they find. They don't have the ability to conduct investigations with individuals on a routine basis. Trying to go around the dealership is usually going to be a waste of your time and Ford's. If your dealership is unwilling to help, try another dealership or ask Ford Customer Relations to open up a Regional Contact report for you and a Ford Zone Manager or a dealership service manager should contact you (unless they already have a file on the issue and consider it closed). Ford's system is designed to assist the dealership in handling and resolving ligitimate issues. (Just like the Orlando office said.) And this, my friends, (in addition to the requirement for broadcasted customer correspondence to be reviewed/approved by legal counsel) is why there is limited customer interaction on the internet when it comes to diagnosing vehicle issues or prescribing fixes.

Just checked and my '07 MKX has the key hole in the bezel just behind the pull handle. Looks like it is there on the white one also.

Perhaps you want the Motorcraft site. Check it out.

Any aftermarket accessory installation that causes a related or direct failure will raise a flag with the service warranty guys. It does not void your warranty just because it was installed - only if it causes a problem. For example: hitch install without transmission oil cooler (where the factory hitch includes the cooler) and the transmission/engine overheats. Not Ford's responsibility. Installation of a wiring harness shorts and takes out a computer - not Ford's responsibility. Aftermarket power amps take out speakers, mounted spoiler causes a leak into the trunk, oil soaked intake filters foul the mass air flow sensor, etc. Not Ford's responsibility. I wouldn't worry about it if the installer knows what they are doing and how you will be towing. If you are planning on exceeding the recommended limits, they should tell you the risks and you should accept them on your own.

Go to tirerack.com and look at wheels that fit and see what else the same wheel fits. Bolt pattern, offset and hub diameter are the main considerations.

Due to high cost of the brochures, dealerships are ordering very few. They and Ford expect many of you to go online and review details, build and price, etc. Save a tree!

Spell check doesn't help when you mistype brake as break. And our minds are trained to read thru misspelled words, sometimes even when proofreading. Some errors will slip thru. One trick I used to use was to read what the agency personnel had done backwards just to avoid the tendancy to read over an error. Glad there is a great explanation for the new feel for coasting. I havn't been in a new one yet, but won't be surprised if it happens now.

If I had that much on my paint (and grill), I would keep a wet towel (paper or otherwise) on the bug residue for a couple of hours. that will help loosen the dried goo so you don't have to scrub as hard (and risk scratching your paint with bug shells). I would use a soft mitt and car wash soap to remove the bugs. Rinse frequently and repeat if necessary. The chrome pieces will take a bit more scrubbing before they get scratched. Water = universal solvent. Don't resort to harsh chemicals unless water won't soften it. In South Georgia we get the "Love Bugs" two for one, certain times of the year. As they say, "What a way to go!"

I was told at one time that I would ned to keep the loan in effect for 6 months to qualify for the FMCC incentive. I sugest you look at the contract. Years ago I got $500 for financing a few thousand with FMCC but paid it off in a month. Perhaops they got wise to that???

That is likely a WIX filter branded Motorcraft for a GM application. Not too much of a concern for us. The filters for Ford applications are built to Ford specifications. They were designed to provide superior filtering protection, adequate flow characteristics with quality bypass valves and high case strength. They represent the best quality you can buy for the price for the Ford appications. There may be filters that will remove smaller particles, but they may also clog faster and go to bypass mode (like no filter at all.) It's a balance in design elements and cost elenents. The Ford advantage is that they can keep the cost reasonable for a very high grade filter because they use millions of them.

DUP

The 2012 order guide suggests the 2.0 eco-boost will be available Job, 1. It does footnote: --- Not available with AWD, Trailer Tow or SelectShift Transmission. Includes 18" Painted Aluminum Wheel and P245/60R18 A/S BSW tires

Quality is generally measured by things gone wrong per 1,000 vehicles. The increase in TGW was due in great measure to the entertainment/sync/nav systems and the new transmission. Many of the opened repair orders should not have been an issue if these systems were explained to new owners. If sales personnel had demonstrated the new technology, many would not have gone back to service with misunderstandings and concerns. Some problems legit but many of the TGW were just not knowing the features and understanding the technology. So, Ford should have made it more reliable, understandable and had sales personnel demonstrate it better and they would still be up at the top tier in quality measurements.

The only way to know is to run a VinCent report on the vin you are buying, for your zip code. Every vin and every zip can be different on different days.

I understand the order guides are available. Can someone please post them. Thanks.

When the pads are worn down far enough, you can get rivets or metal backing plate contacting the rotor. Don't go too lomg or you will grove the rotor, necessating turning or rotor replacement. (significantly increasing the cost of repair) Some brake pads have a soft metal layer that alerts the driver that it is time to replace the pads - don't know if ours do, however. I would remove the wheel and feel for groves in the rotor and look at the thickness of the remaining material on the pad.

Years ago, X-Plan PIN's were limited to executives of supplier companies. They required a sign-off from a regional or division manager. Over time, they became more available and today, employees, retirees and employees of supplier/affiliate companies have access to X-Plans. There is a risk to an employee or retiree giving a PIN to someone they don't know well since misuse of the PIN can void the giver's plan privileges. If you find someone willing to give you a PIN, don't mess them up by violating the plan rules. In this case, it sounds like they are buing a vehicle off lease - not eligible for X-Plan. Only for new vehicles.

Many Ford Extended Service Plans have a first day rental car option. If this is a big deal to you, look into this alternative. Your basic warranty does not provide for a loaner vehicle and most dealerships would not provide one for same day warranty work.

You should always consider a lease. Establish a purchase price, based on current incentives and your trade, Then, using that price, ask them to compute a lease for the number of months you want and the annual miles you plan to drive. Incentives sometimes differ between purchase and lease and that will affect the starting price. ($2,000 less incentive on a lease will up the starting price by $2,000). Often the advantage to a lease lies in the residual set for the vehicle by Ford Credit (higher is better) and the application of the incentives to only the lease months - not the total purchase price. ($3,000 off a 60 month purchase simplistically saves $50 per month BUT $3,000 off a 24 month lease saves $125 a month.) At the end of 24 - 36 months, you can decide to turn in the vehicle or buy it for the "residual" cost. When the incentives are very large (like the Mercury close out deals) the leases can be very attractive. We (extended family) have 3 leases going now on those bargains.

They use Ford material but they are not the Ford Service Manuals technicians use. Part numbers have been eliminated, etc. You would think Ford would copyright this stuff!