flyerjmr33

$$$$ LOOKING FOR FACTORY 2008-10 20" WHEELS/TIRES TO BUY $$$$$

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Where are you located--- I might be interested in a trade of sorts---

Like I said explain why the Explorer got a constant gain in MPG when the wife did not even know I did anything to the vehicle?

AS soon as you explain why the vehicle manufacturers haven't switched over to them-- and the use of oil has nothing to do with it. Everyone wants better gas mileage. Most of all, the vehicle manufacturers.

The computer sensors control the gas mileage on all the current crop of vehicles. They measure air flow and exhaust gas and adjust the fuel mixture accordingly.

If wasting money on gas saving gadjets makes you feel good, go for it-- get enough of them and you'll have to drain the gas tank to keep it from overflowing.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/4264939

 

 

 

Popular Mechanics also tested all of the usual mpg improvers like the tornado, diy hydrogen fuel cells, etc. If Popular Mechanics figured out how to do a controlled scientific test on these then why can't K&N do the same test? And BTW - all seven of these actually make claims that they improve MPG - and they're all lying. The fact that K&N doesn't even bother to advertise any actual mpg improvement really says everything.

 

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/alternative-fuel/gas-mileage/1802932

 

But hey - you can believe whatever YOU want to believe, but if you want to post it here claiming that it's a FACT then you need some unbiased test results to back it up.

I believe that I stated in a previous post that if anything would improve gas mileage, the OEM's would jump on it like a Duck on a June Bug. There's a certain percentage of vehicle owners who, when they spend a buck on something that is all smoke and mirrors, have to attempt to justify the buck! You can't confuse them with facts--their mind is made up!

yeah but that 30 mins you say...... ..dude..thats at least 2 brews, and good convo while you wait!..... thats all that is.....

 

and 50... with oil and stuff.. vs 25 i'm guessing on paper filters every 10k....hhmmm....its worth the time i think..

 

but i like your dead horse icon... nice!!!! lol.. :beerchug:

Ford says to change the paper filter every 30,000 miles--so--- when you change yours at 10,000 miles, would you please send the discarded filters to me. I can then use them for another 20K and save the 6 bucks that a new one costs--- If you pay 25 bucks for a paper filter, I'd sure like to be your supplier! :yup:

:beatdeadhorse:

On a few of my cars I have well over 100k with K+N filters installed, no engine problems and no burning oil.

 

The oiled filter catches the bigger particles of airborne dust.

 

The K+N filter Simply outflows stock filters.

 

Now for getting engine oil dirty... My oil is as clean as it is with or with out a stock filter. I even went purposely and installed my stock filter back in for 1 oil change.... Oil looked just as dirty as with the K+N.

 

I believe the postings of K+N filters letting big chunks of dirt through and all the other stuff is just rumors... Never saw a hard fact yet. You would think that the makers of stock type filters that do advertise on TV would go out of their way to let people know Oiled filters can damage engines if it was true just to sell their products!

So, other than making more noise and gaining a small HP increase at wide open throttle, there is no benefit. It wont hurt anything in the normal course of the engine's life, so if it makes you feel good, go for it! For me, I've found that spending an extra 50 bucks for something that I have to wash and oil, just isn't in my agenda. I gave up washing and oiling air filters when the first papaer filter came to market back in the late 50's--- It takes 2 minutes to change a paper filter and 30 minutes to wash and oil the K&N if you include the time it takes to find the oil and the bucket that you need for the cleaning solution. Then you have to dispose of the cleaning solution--- More bad news-- I'll stick with my paper filters, thank you very much!

:beatdeadhorse:

My 2011 is posessed.

For the 3rd time in about 4 months, my driver seat moved foward when I parked and turned of ignition.

It moved ALL the way forward!! I'm a big guy and it damn near suffocated me. I'm serious!

I've had the seat module replaced once and it still goes stupid every week or so and will not move forward for the easy entry feature. But it does pick random times to move ALL the way forward when I'm in it.

WTF!

Let this be on the record...if I'm found suffocated in the kroger parking lot, sue Ford!

Not to fear--- the belly on the horn will alert folks to your problem and they'll come and rescue you!

I beg to differ cause they have done DYNO tests on new cars with the K+N and it did show a HP increase.

 

Also what do you think would make your engine breathe better..... #1 A paper bag or #2 A cotton shirt?

 

#1 the OEM style filter is like a paper bag... Really tear one apart and look at the element. It is like a really tightly woven paper fabric.

 

#2 The K+N is like a cotton shirt where it flows better.

 

Now if your engine can suck filtered fresh air in faster, smoother and easier you will gain HP and better fuel economy and dont even try to tell me I am wrong. If your engine has a restricted type OEM filter it has to work harder to get that air in.

 

And why do MFG's use paper filters??? They are cheap plus your average Joe does not have the talent to wash and clean a reusable filter, this is why Jiffy Lubes are all over cause the general population do not work on their cars, if they did over 1/2 of the repair facilities would be out of business.

 

MFG's are out to make money, not to loose it.

 

You know I have never seen any article where a stock OEM filter outflowed, outperformed or beat a K+N in HP or MPG gain, now I have seen plenty where a K+N beats OEM.

If HP is all you are after, go for it--- the rest is nothing but a pipe dream! Perhaps in a vehicle with a carburetor and no computer, the K&N will give a small increase in fuel economy, but if you think it can fool the computer, you are just dreaming.

The first half of the service period for the K&N you suck in extra dirt--the second half when the extra dirt starts to restrict air flow, it might filter as well as paper-- If it could increase fuel economy, every OEM would be using it. CAFE is what makes sales when gas prices are what they are now.--- Perhaps you could give some scientific reason that the K&N increases fuel economy on a computer controlled engine.

Even if it improved economy, the cost of it makes no sense till you drive way past 150,000 miles. The HP increase only happens at WOT. You rarely drive at full throttle, and if you do, your economy sorta disappears, doesn't it!

It wasn't me.... this time.

 

 

I'll be honest, on this site, some things need to come back up. It's either that or we start new threads and lose old replies. And I bet this 2+ YO thread was on the 2nd page of some section though.

 

 

K&N PN for Edge Drop in Panel filter is KN-33-2395. They are going for about $50 right now.

Add it up--- Change the paper filter every 30,000 miles. That's 5 changes for 150,000 miles at even $10 a filter-- false economy-- And, there is no change in fuel economy! You're simply dreaming if you think that an air filter will make the computer change anything. There once was a time when an air filter could affect economy, but now, with air flow sensors, the computer simply adjusts for air flow and has nothing to do with a restricted air filter. A restricted filter will affect top end performance, but not fuel economy.

The only reason you would seem to get increased economy when you put in a K&N is because you are now more concious of how you are driving ---

Well when that small metal contact on the rotor helps wear a deep groove to the point where it can not be cut anymore the money that was wasted was by not doing the brakes as soon as the noise was heard.

 

The wear indicator is an early warning sign of wore out pads so you dont go metal to metal when the pad material is gone. As we all know metal to metal will wear out the rotor and that wear indicator is made out of metal, some is thicker and some is thinner.

 

Now when you get down far enough to have the wear indication happen your brakes are now dangerously wore to the point where brake failure can happen due to over heating of the brakes in certain braking conditions.... Example going down a steep long hill can cause brake overheating and then brake fade due to wore out pads.

 

It all really depends on the type of brake wear clips, some do no damage and some will cut groves if left too long.It really depends on the brake manufacturer and how cheap the pads installed were.

 

I have been doing brakes for 23 years and have professionally cut rotors at my jobs so I have seen the damage brake wear clips can and can not do.

 

Now this is also a big reason why they have faded out riveted pads cause when a rivet breaks it damages the rotor. By chemically bonding the pad to the metal you eliminate the rivets that can break and cut grooves in the rotor. Worst thing that can happen is a chunk can break off to poor bonding or damage by debris hitting the rotor/pad surface connection, I have seen this damage too where the pad had a chunk chipped off or broke off completely, it is rare but does happen as anything can happen even a wear indicator damaging the rotor.

 

This is one of the worst wear indicators. it can bend and then fold over and cut deep grooves to the point where the rotor is junk.

 

Hopefully, most folks would be smart enough to investigate a sound such as the one made by wear indicator clips. If they don't, then they have to pay the consequences.

As far as riveted brakes vs bonded--- the pads cool by heat transfer. The glue that bonds the pads is an insulator and slows the cooling process down. Riveted pads cool better-- but, they also will cause more damage id not replaced when worn--so, you have the old proverbial double edged sword--

The old drum type brakes were, and still are, much better when riveted lining is used just because of the better cooling with the riveted stuff. It's much less expensive to bond friction material to the metal than it is to rivet it. Cost is the major factor in the manufacture of auto parts. Makes no difference whether it's for OE or replacement. The glue used now is much better than it was years ago, so it is easier to bond the pads where they hold. I can remember several cases of glue failure where the friction material came loose.

For me, even with the new adhesives, I still prefer riveted material when there is a choice!

As for wear indicator design, there's good and bad, just as there is in everything made. All of it is good for your business!

I spent 35 years in the business --28 of which was spent working for a manufacturer of brake and alignment equipment.

Any metal rubbing on the rotors will start some damage, I have personally replaced rotors because of this issue on cars.

It's such a small contact on the rotor that makes the sound that it makes no difference in the rotor wear pattern--- However, everyone is entitled to waste their money in anyway they wish!

There are metal wear warning devices that will make a squealing sound when the pads wear down to where they should be replaced. They will make noise till you step on the brake pedal. When you hear that sound, it's time to replace the pads. The noise you hear will not damage the rotors because ti is just a small piece of metal that contacts the rotor. There is enough pad material left at this point to go several thousand miles more, but only if you can stand the squealing noise!

Actually, I too have noticed this.

I have also have a 2011 SEL, with leather seats.

I too notice it most at highway speads. It's almost like an invisible annoying little kid is kicking the seatback.

The vibration is strange, but not really enough to bother me. Seems like the passenger seatback shouldn't move at all though.

Perhaps rather than blame the seat, find the cause--- like a tire out of balance or out of round----

Wasn't known to me... I have SS lines on my sportbike, but never had them on a car before. I thought they were more to keep the oe lines from getting hot and expanding giving a "spongy" feel.

 

That is good to know, thanks bender!

A little research came up with this--- you all might want to read!

http://www.nsxprime.com/wiki/Brake_Lines

Thanks Guys! Appreciate the input. Anyone else think the same...or different?

I have an '08 with 35,000 miles on it-- been bulletproof, so far!

It was phased in over a period of time. I left the panhandle about 5 years ago. Before I left 93 octane premium was hard to fine, only a few stations carried it. And the 87 was being replaced with the 85 - 86 octane stuff.

 

Lubbock is about the same elevation as Amarillo, and as the article your referenced, 86 is the standard there. Went to school at Tech and back then we could get the good stuff, 100 octane, at the pumps :yup: .

 

My home town is about 120 miles east of Lubbock, and last month when I filled up the regular was 86 octane.

Ya got one of those old bumper stickers that says,"Lucky Me, I'm leaving Lubbock!"-- They came out right after the ones that said, "Lucky me I live in Lubbock."

Depends on the elevation, in the panhandle (Amarillo and surrounding area) where the elevation is 3000 feet and above you will find 85 and 86 and most premium is 91 instead of 93. Lived in that area for 30 + years and 93 was semi-hard to find in the last few years before I moved. And it appears to be spreading, about a month ago I made a trip in that direction I ran into the lower octane (86) gas in my home town which is around 1850 feet.

I lived in Lubbock for several years and am now in Houston--- I sure don't remember seeing anything less than 87 till I got into the New Mexico highlands--- but, when you get much above 3000 ft., the engine that required 87 at sea level only requires something less to produce a normal run without detonation.

http://lubbockonline.com/stories/101809/col_506046607.shtml

Knock sensors IMHO, are as useless as tits on a nun. They should save the cost of the sensors and install and install side mirror turn signal indicators.

If you want to burn some holes in your nun's tits, disable her knock sensors--- you can't hear all detonation-- and, I do believe that 87 octane is the recommended grade for the edge.

As far as I know, and I have traveled this whole state, there is no grade of fuel below 87 octane available in Texas. Colorado, yes, and possibly some parts of New Mexico, but I've never seen anything lower than 87 in Texas!

Bought my '08 Edge about a month ago. I did an experiment in my last car and found that it really didn't pay to burn expensive(higher octane) fuel in my Pontiac Grand Prix GT.

 

I was thinking about doing a similar experiment with my Edge and see if it paid off.

 

Here is what I did in my car. I took one month and burned each of the octanes (87, 89, 91) keeping track of how much I bought and how much more it was than regular 87 octane. Also, I kept track of the miles I drop giving me the MPG average for each as well as how much more I spent on fuel to get the extra MPG(if any). It turned out that if I did get any increase in MPG it was very small and when compared to the extra money I spent to get the higher octane fuel, it was actually costing me more money per mile to drive than if I had used regular 87 octane fuel.

 

Has anyone done anything like this with an Edge?

Why waste your time and money? The results will be in favor of the lower octane fuel because the edge engine is designed to run on regular grade gasoline.

Disconnected the battery, put it on a charger, which charged it for only 30 seconds then indicated it was full. Reconnected battery, and the clicking noise was loud enough to identify where it was coming from, the fuse block in the engine compartment. I pulled the large relay in there and it still did it. I don't know where this clicking noise is coming from. It sounds like it's behind the fuse block. I posted a video to YouTube.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NI4mbnfhatc

All you have done is shown the surface voltage of the battery--- More than likely this battery is sulfated and will not provide any amperage. Any slight load will show a low voltage. Once in a while, a slow charge will remove the sulfation, but more than likely, a new battery is in order here. Try a set of jumper cables from a decent battery and see if the Edge will start--- or take that battery to an Autozone store or a Walmart or Sam's Club for testing. They have testers that are capable of testing a discharged battery and will give you the actual capacity in MAH. Anything that comes up below 80% of capacity is a bad battery---

Probably the best bang for the $.

 

If anyone is interested in finding out if your Edge/MKX can really get the advertised MPG here’s a link to the known stations that sell NON-Ethanol gas.

 

http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp

 

I’ll be making a SPECIAL 15 mile trip for my next fill.

 

I know it’s not going to save any $’s but it SURE will be nice to see how this thing really runs.

 

ab

Your 15 mile trip turns into a 30 mile round trip and unless it's all hiway driving, it will cost you 2 gallons of fuel--- and-- your engine will run no different and gas mileage will remain very close to the same as with Ethanol--- But--- you decide and let is know here as to your findings!

Update: Took it back it in and they had it on the alignment machine for over 2 hours. Never got a straight answer about what they did, but it is fixed. I no longer have a pull and the Edge steers and drives better then it ever has. The only compliant I have is that I had to be a major pain in the ass to the the Service Advisor and Service Manager to get them to do anything. They kept trying to tell me that everything was within specifications and there was nothing they could do. I kept after it and fortunately the day I took it in for something else there was a Ford Engineer there and she drove it. I was going to escalate it to Ford if they did not want to do anything. The pull was very noticeable and I had to keep a steady pressure to the left of the steering wheel independent of the slope of the road. Now the Edge will track straight and will drift slowly in the direction of slope of the road like most vehicles do. Hopefully the detail service order they send out will have some more information about what they did. I had previously swapped the front tires without any improvement and I can tell that they did not rotate the tires front to back so they had to change something on the front end I just don't know what. For some reason this dealer seems to think that letting the customer know what they do would be revealing a trade secret.

More than likely, they finally did the rear alignment. If they said the front was in specs, the only other place to fix would have been the rear. Improper rear toe in could cause a pull.

Anyway, whatever they did, you now have a decent driving vehicle. When something is wrong, a little bitchin' to the right person goes a long way!

I gotta remember that excuse.

 

"Honey it's ok - I'm just trying to get the rings to seat!"

See, you're never too old to learn new stuff! :shades:

LOL, my oil is going out with the exhaust. Seems like most everyone thinks there's a real problem here but try telling your service manager that a bunch of people on a couple of Internet forums think that way and see how far that gets you. So I document it with them and keep checking my oil level. Maybe ignore it and wait for a checkoil light. Maybe they installed a too short dipstick and the engine is burning off excess oil to get to a natural level (wouldn't that be neat?). But until my dealer sees it as a problem, I guess there's no problem.

There may be a problem, but before you panic, do a "Break-in Run"--- do 10 full throttle accelerations from a standing start to 50 MPH. Then do 10 more to 60MPH. Now, check your oil and top it off and see if that doesn't cure the problem.

Seating rings in some engines can take some time and the above method will definitely help.. I bough an '08 with 16,000 miles on it and the rings had not yet seated fully till I did the "break-in run".

Good luck and keep us posted.

Every CAI I have used got me more MPG if I was out of the throttle. When you lay into the throttle you do loose MPG.

Perhaps you can explain how that's possible with a computer controlled fuel system--- Just the increased gas mileage part---

While an 11.2 Horsepower gain isn't earth shattering, it's also not what you'd call "without any other benefit"

Will I spend $299 on an aftermarket intake/filter setup for 11.2hp, LOL of course not.

Living in Texas would I ever dream of letting an airfilter go 30,000 miles between changes, an even bigger LOL of course not.

 

Bottom line, folks who bolt on aftermarket mods on their cars don't feel they have to justify the costs. It's a feel good purchase.

I used to feel that adding crap to a car was a good purchase till it hit me about the cost vs. benefit factor. I've added a lot of stuff to my '08 Edge, but all of it is useful to me almost every day.

Also, living in Texas could be anything from arid to super wet--- I live in the Houston area and have no problem running 30K on an ait filter! If I lived in Lubbock or anywhere West of Ft Worth, 30 K on a filter might be a stretch----