Loud tapping [SOLVED], rattling sound [SOLVED], & shudders, 2020 Edge SEL 2.0L

[fletcher969]

Hi all,
Audio file and video link provided near the end of post.

 

For the record, the shudders remain, but I'm working on identifying it using FORScan.
 

Vehicle in question is my girlfriends.  Purchased just shy of a month ago from a reputable dealership with a 3-month/3000 mile full warranty on the engine, drive train, and axles.  Vehicle has good service history.  It's been driven about 1000 miles since purchase, and it currently has about 97.5K miles on it.  No CEL or other trouble indications.  No issues whatsoever until this happened.
 

This engine has been one of the quieter direct injection engines I've been around...until my girlfriend started it 2 days ago to run some errands.  I heard it from 30' away, so I stopped her, and had her pop the hood.  Sound seems to be coming from the top end, more rearward in the engine bay than forward, and more on the right side than the left.  The sound lasted a full 10 minutes before I took it on a slooow test drive during which it lasted maybe another 5-10 minutes until I couldn't hear it in the cabin.  It sounded pretty normal when I pulled into our driveway.  

At that point I decided to take it for a 'normal' speed drive, and I noticed during slow acceleration it had 2-3 slight but distinct shudders or 'hiccups' at what 'seem' to be shift points up to around 30 mph.  The digital tach needle would 'flutter' about +/- 50 RPMs whenever I felt them.  Sport was about the same, maybe slightly worse.  Normal and aggressive acceleration seem normal and acceleration was snappy.  I'm not sure the noise and shuddering are related, but it doesn't seem like a coincidence to me, but I know there were torque converter issues with some of these Edges.
 

And for the record, fluid levels were checked the night before, and all was fine.  Also, when my girlfriend started it up the next day after sitting for about 10 hours, the noise was there, but not as pronounced, and it quieted down after maybe 3-5 minutes.  Nights have been cool for a change, but not cold.
 

Any ideas?  I want to be able to steer the dealer tech in the right direction just in case it's acting more subtly than what I captured in the audio/video.  I initially thought cam phaser(s), and/or timing chain, or turbo waste gate, but again, there were those shudders...  

BTW, the loud 'scraping' (rattle) sound you'll hear at about 6, 9, and 14 seconds is when the RPMs are dropping back down.

 

Thanks.

 

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UPDATE:  The odd metallic rattle/chain-scraping-like noise heard at 6, 9, and 14 seconds was identified as a failing HPFP (fuel pump) which was replaced along with its cam drive piston (whatever it's called).  That took care of the noise you hear in the audio.  For the record, this was not the same sound I reported in my other "loud tapping" thread here.  Replacing the fuel pump actually made the other tapping noise much more obvious:  

 

 

Video link:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CkJgT8a2biDWg7ZpLnIagJD2tjD-UOcY/view?usp=sharing

 

Edited 20 hours ago by fletcher969

[fletcher969]

Hi all,

 

2020 Edge SEL

 

My GF purchased this vehicle used a couple of months ago (with a dealer's 3/3000 powertrain warranty good for 3 more weeks).  At that time the engine was in the quieter range of what one would expect from an EB engine...a fluttery typewriter, or perhaps a 'soft' tapping from the high pressure fuel pump (HPFP).  About a month ago a metal rattling noise appeared overnight (most apparent during deceleration), and it had a distinctly louder metallic tone (similar to valve train noise).  After some communication including videos, we took it to the dealer, and ultimately it was identified as a failing HPFP, so that was replaced along with its roller piston.  That quieted down the overall sound level, but there was a persistent 'tapping' noise coming from the back driver's side of the engine where initially I had attempted to steer some focus with the tech who performed the aforementioned HPFP repair.  I think my observation was dismissed.  Subjectively I've felt it is getting louder, so yesterday I decided to put a stethoscope on it.  

 

Intake side is about what I'd expect for a healthy sounding valve train, and it was pretty quiet around and on the HPFP (and for the record, this engine's HPFP is driven off the intake cam...most 2.0L EB videos and pics I see show it running off the exhaust cam...not sure when that changed).  Anyway, the exhaust side was noticeably louder than the intake side starting at cylinder #1, but I attributed that to the presence of the injectors.  Cylinder #2 was slightly louder, but not alarming; however, when I got to cylinder #3 the sound was maybe twice as loud, and cylnder #4, while not as loud as #3, was considerably louder than #1 and #2.  I wish I could say the sound is metallic, but there's so much injector noise (assumed) I can't be 100% certain.

 

I listened to several other areas on the block, and if I place the stethoscope just right on the upper portion of the intake side of the block, I can hear a very faint high pitch 'ping' that seems to correlate to a single cylinder's timing sequence.  I can't get to the back/exhaust side of the block, so I can't really narrow the ping down.  Turbo, timing cover area, and lower block all sound pretty good.  

 

Question:  Is there anything in the design of this engine that would cause #3 and #4 cylinders to exhibit far louder internal sounds under the exhaust-side valve cover? 

 

Here is a link to the engine running at idle (file size was too large to attach here):  https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QP4IAkaUk_68z3KxZwLQGhBsyfpaeFzx/view?usp=sharing

 

Thanks for any input.

 

UPDATE:  I formed a hypothesis and I tested it a few minutes ago.  The high pressure fuel line on this engine passes over the exhaust-side valve cover close to the #4 cylinder, and the fuel line hold bracket is secured via a metal bolt through the top of the valve cover...between the #3 & #4 cylinders where the noise was most concentrated.  My hypothesis was that the metal bracket and bolt were essentially transferring the sounds inside the fuel line to the inside of the valve cover, the latter of which is essentially a resonance chamber.  So, I removed the bolt, and the noise causing me concern disappeared.  All I could hear externally was the HPFP, and my stethoscope revealed a quietly running valve train that was previously obfuscated.  Obviously the noise came back after I reinstalled the bolt, but at least I know it's benign.  I'm now considering how I might reduce the noise with the fuel line bracket secured.  Maybe isolate the bolt from the bracket using a couple of rubber washers or fashion some type of rubber grommet so the bolt and bracket can never touch one another. 

Edited 20 hours ago by fletcher969

[Cardi]

I have a similar issue on my 2020 titanium, but the noise since to start at or above 40 mph, coming from the rear of the vehicle. No issues at lower speeds and other than the annoyance of the noise, there are no other issues. 

[fletcher969]

On 10/21/2025 at 12:38 PM, Cardi said:

I have a similar issue on my 2020 titanium, but the noise since to start at or above 40 mph, coming from the rear of the vehicle. No issues at lower speeds and other than the annoyance of the noise, there are no other issues. 

If the noise you're hearing is coming from the back of the dealer, check for a TSB that applies to the rear differential.  Not sure if that's where your sound is coming from, but I do know there were some issues with improper oil levels or something similar that lead to failure.  The differential on my GF's vehicle was replaced when the dealer took delivery of it (used), so I'm assuming it was on the way out.  

[Cardi]

Problem solved. Someone mention checking the nuts that tighten the license plate in the back.  They were tight but left space for the lower part of the plate to move freely. I replaced the nuts for others bought at an auto part store. It was actually the license plate's lower part flying freely with speed and making the noise.  Nuts replaced, license plate cannot move anymore. The noise is gone.