ddrewyor

Yes - the dreaded "Door Ajar" problem. This has been a recurring issue with almost every Ford vehicle that uses the sensor in the latch. My wife's 2011 Edge just started doing it at 39k miles. We have had several cars with the issue and spraying brake cleaner in ther usually cures the problem. However, since we have the extended warranty - it's going back to the dealership to get it replaced. This type of aggravation on a well maintained vehicle is just wrong. It's bad enough the "My Touch" debacle was never resolved, but this is down right annoying as you try to drive with your "Door ajar". I'm sure slamming the door several times to get it to go off is real good for the vehicle not to mention when you park the car and the battery slowly gets drained each time. Once it is out of warranty @ 100k miles, then I will do the brake clean, until then, to the dealership....

Our 2011 Edge has ~ 10,500 miles on it and I am going to begin using the Amsoil Synthetic with a NAPA gold filter (Made by Wix). I did my first conventional oil change with ~ 1,000 miles and cut open the filter and there were particles of metal flash and other items in it. While the filter caught the junk, they were floating around in there until stopped by the filter. Second oil change was at dealer at ~ 4,500 miles. They actually told my wife it was not necessary, then they saw the non original filter and told her not to come back until 8,500 miles (decent dealership). She had it changed and I took that filter and cut it open. Very few particles and much smaller in size were found. So this coming weekend it's time to change the oil. Once I have put the Amsoil in, I change the oil every 6 months regardless of miles. I usually roll up 11 - 12k during that period. Amsoil says it's good for 25k miles by changing the filter and adding a quart at the halfway mark. I'm too chicken s$%# for that, but the 6 month thing has worked well. My first Volvo wagon went 280,000 miles and my second went 190,000 miles. Both Volvos were turbo (original turbos still running strong when sold) and the 740 was delivering pizzas at 360,000 miles when I last saw it! Second Volvo has pushed over the 220k mark with no signs of trouble (don't know how new owner is maintaining it). My Ranger has 221,000 miles on it and still runs great. The 3000 mile thing is a myth. With newer filtration media, cleaner running, computer controlled engines, higher quality lubricants (synthetic and conventional) with better additive packs, there is no reason regular usage cannot get 7,500 miles from an oil change. One thing to keep in mind that most of the damage causing particles come from the air - so make sure you have quality air filtration on the top end. I have used K&N and clean and oil them once a year. There is a site for "Bob the Oil Guy" which has tons of information on this. Enjoy Dave

Shantz, what did your bodyshop say was the cause? Did they take the door apart and see where it was coming from or have they seen this issue and they just know the fix? Thanks Dave

I am interested in seeing what you did as I just noticed what appears to be some rust in my passenger rear door. I had it undercoated, but it either ran out on top of the undercoating or it is mixed with the undercoating. I am going to check it out better this weekend. Where did you put the silicone to prevent this and where is it coming from? Thanks Dave

We picked up our new Edge SEL (Platinum Metallic) last week and it did not have any of the rust you described. I looked at several on the lot and none had that in the doors. When we took it into have it rustproofed, the guy said that he had seen a couple with the rust spots but it is coming from the hardware vs. the sheetmetal. While that still would be a bit bothersome, he said that the rustproofing would stop it in it's tracks if it tried to spread. My opinion, if I see that start to show up on my vehicle, I would take at least one door apart and see what is going on. If you use new attachment hardware and make sure the protective film is in place, you should not get any air infiltration or squeaks\rattles. These vehicles are just too expensive to have rust eating away at their insides. Rust never sleeps and one can only contain it once it starts. Dave

I have just ordered a new Edge and my dealer says that they have had no issues like this that he knows of. I have bought several vehicles from this sales person over the years and he has steered me away from some potential pitfalls on certain vehicles so I believe him. However, it could be a fairly new issue. With that said, the flange that KLC pointed out will collect the rusty flowdown from somewhere in the door but should not be rusting itself. Between the e-coating process, and the paint, I find it hard to believe that it is the sheetmetal rusting. I wonder if there is some piece of hardware in the door that was not protected and this is the result? Go onto the lot, look at some of the vehicles they have, find one that has this issue and let them tear that vehicle apart. Once these doors come apart, unless they use new fasteners, you are inviting squeaks/rattles, and air infiltration. Please keep us posted on what you find out. Dave