fishx65

On 4/24/2024 at 2:21 PM, Ollie45 said:

I replace my purge valve last summer, hard starts after refueling, now it sounds like a machine gun at random times. Is this normal?

Car has other issues as well because of the past owner neglecting oil changes. I believe the VVT solenoids are getting plugged again. This is after new plug, coils, valve covers, VVT's, and timing components. Not to mention both cats and all O2 sensors in the last month. 

Still idles rough, sounds like it wants to stall.. 

 

I've tried 3 purge valves from Autozone and they all sounded like machine guns.

On 4/22/2024 at 11:10 AM, 1004ron said:

Even a cheap OBDII device with Forscan would work.

Thanks 1004.  Ran codes and it didn't show any for the purge valve but I just swapped in a new one anyway. It did show pending codes for bank 1 & 2  02 sensors (P2198 and P2196).  Cleared the codes after installing the new purge valve and all seems fine now:)

1 hour ago, 1004ron said:

Mine has done something similar which was caused by the evap valve.

 

What are you using to scan for stored error codes? - I ask because I've found most readers unreliable with my Ford, and now rely on Forscan for that.

I'm just using a cheap reader I purchased from Amazon.  I have noticed that my purge valve is getting pretty noisy so I'm gonna head up to the Zone right now and get a warranty replacement.  Thinking I should have used a Motorcraft part in the first place:(

I've had this 2011 3.5 since new and it's been maintained extremely well. She just hit 146,000.  Was stopped at a light this morning and it started lightly surging forward and backward. RPM gauge was also jumping a little. It didn't throw any codes and seemed to be a little sluggish until I got it home. Anyone ever experience something like this? Any ideas?   

I'm guessing something wasn't tightened properly or one of the new parts already failed.  I would start by checking the strut pinch bolts and upper mount bolts. Have someone watch the strut assembly while you bounce each side.  Also, read about diagnosing a bad shock with the bounce test.

Check your coolant level.  Not sure if the Edge works the same but I have a Jeep Liberty at the cabin that won't blow heat until about 2000 RPM every time the coolant gets low.

I'd wire brush it the best you can, prime the bad areas, spray a very light coat of rubberized undercoating on the entire chassis and then spray everything you can with a few cans of Fluid Film every fall.   I live in a nasty rust belt and have done this since purchasing my 2011 SEL brand new and she still looks great underneath.  I have gotten some rust along that lower rocker seam because it's really difficult to spray between the metal that's spot welded there.  Also, it's a good idea to spray some rustproofing inside and outside of all the bottom door, hood and tailgate seams. I use a product called Amber Rustproofing.  It doesn't take much time for annual rust prevention maintenance and it's definitely worth it if you live in a salt belt. 

On 3/14/2024 at 2:24 PM, Pbear74 said:

reviving an old post, do you remember how you were able to identify that this was the issue?

 

My 2011 Edge just started doing the same thing. Also getting a message about the fuel lid, not sure of the exact verbiage.  The stalling just started today while the fuel lid message is about a week old.  

Another strange issue was that the breaks were hard to press down for a bit but eventually went back to normal.  

 

 

2011 Ford Edge, 3.5L, AWD

145,000miles

99% chance that it's the purge valve.  I'd just go ahead and replace it cuz they're cheap and take about 5 minutes to replace.  I actually replaced mine in the Autozone parking lot:)  Toss your receipt in the glove compartment cuz I think Autozone is lifetime on these and I had mine replaced once.

There could be two blend door actuators on the drivers side.  I had to replace the upper one on my 2008 Taurus and it was a bear. 

Has anyone here ever tried to shim their headlights on a 11-14 for better horizontal adjustment?  My 11 SEL came from the factory with the passenger beam pointing toward the middle of the vehicle.  I know there's no horizontal adjustment so I've been thinking about pulling the front bumper and trying to shim the housing. 

Well, I tried two different led bulbs in my 2011., The Fahren Forsher and Auxito Y13.  The beam pattern was just OK after rotating them properly but they weren't much brighter than stock 9012 halogens. Two sided LED bulbs just don't work well in these halogen projectors.I ended up putting the 35/5000 DDM HIDs back in with new bulbs.  I might eventually experiment with some higher quality LEDs if I decide to keep my Edge a little longer.

 Don't expect any more light when using the brights, there's just a shutter that moves which allows the light to go higher. The halogen projectors on 11-14 Edges are so bad they're borderline dangerous.

Been running a DDM 35/5000 HID kit in my 2011 for 12 years with no problems.  I've noticed the bulbs are starting to dim so it's time to do something and I've noticed that LEDs seem to have gotten a lot better than they were 12 years ago. Should I just order new HID bulbs or give LEDs a shot.  Any suggestions if I decide to go LED?  I was looking at the Auxito Y13.

I ended up ordering 4 Schraders on Amazon for $29.00 each. Looks like they were take-offs and were all manufactured around July of 2023.  Was gonna replace them myself but it was too cold so I had Discount Tire swap them out for $88.00.  Originals were manufactured in August of 2010 so just over 13 years before the first one died. 

On 8/11/2023 at 5:08 PM, Cyberdave said:

So to follow up (and I posted a longer one in the thread I referenced previously), the LX20's only lasted 34k miles on my car which I am very disappointed with considering what they are supposed to be. 

 

I now have 46,000 on my LX20's and still have 5-6 tenths on all of them.  They've been really good all these years but I just noticed some cracking between the treads.  Probably gonna go with a set of LX25's when the time comes.

I just used a cheap spring compressor kit from AA to do upper strut mounts on my 2011 SEL and was surprised how quick and easy it was.  The 11-14 Edge's have pretty stiff suspensions to begin with so I wouldn't mind finding shocks and struts that soften things up a bit.

Just had my first TPMS sensor die in my 2011 SEL.  I'm guessing it's a good idea to replace all of them  since they're 13 years old?. Any decent aftermarket brands out there????

I own both an Edge and a Fusion.  If the EVOS was a hybrid all wheel drive vehicle I'd be really interested. I think it looks amazing:)

I'd do a full undercoat and rustproofing and make sure to touch it up every year.  It's also a good idea to give it a quick spray with a product like fluid film going into each winter. I have a 2011 SEL that's been in SE Michigan its whole life and the undercarriage still looks pretty amazing for 150,000 miles. 

2011 just hit 150,000 and it's time for a tie rod job.  Moog or Motorcraft? Can get all 4 Moog's for $130.00 on Amazon so that's the way I'm leaning.

I recently had to change out an actuator in a Taurus because I couldn't get the defrost vents to work.  Major problem in the winter!!!!  I was able to pinpoint which actuator it was by the clicking noise and getting my fingers on it.  Unfortunately it was the upper actuator on the drivers side which was a bitch to get to. I made a little bed out of milk crates and a patio cushion so I could lay down and try to get the 3 screws out.  Took me about 4 hours and I only got two screws back in.  Had to go all MacGyver and make a couple extended 1/4" ratchet handles. My whole body was sore for a few days:)

It would be interesting to compare Edge sales to Fusion sales those same years.  Maybe cuz I live in Michigan but I'm amazed how many Fusions of all years I still see on the roads.

On 3/10/2023 at 12:11 AM, enigma-2 said:

Well that certainly proves that the 3.5 water pump fails at a premature rate. My MKX has a little over 130,000 miles, I'd better start considering a preventive maintenance change out.

LOL

 

330,000 miles. Incredible. 

In the same boat with around 140K on my 2011.  Gonna roll the dice instead of fixing something that might last over 300,000 miles.  If Mac can do it so can we:):)

I've got a 2011 SEL with 145,000 and been thinking of doing the water pump as a precautionary measure.  This post makes me not want to mess with it. 

I currently own a 2011 Edge, 2019 Fusion Hybrid and a 2023 Escape ST.  The 2011 Edge is way nicer than the 2023 Escape in almost every single way besides technology and MPG. Out of the three, I still prefer driving the Edge by a good margin.  I've been driving Fords my whole life but will finally be looking at other brands when I decide to sell the Edge.  Whatever I get will definitely be a hybrid.