fishx65

I live in a rust belt and was just wondering where your 2011-2014 Edges are showing rust? Been doing a little rust checking on my 2011 and found some on the bottom lip of the tailgate but the doors were just fine. Ended up having to remove the entire bead of body caulk and redoing the bottom edge. Would like to spray some rustproofing in the problem areas before it starts.

Thanks. Gonna take a look and see if I can find a way to spray some rustproofing inside the rockers.

I've just learned to live with the stiff ride of my 2011 SEL but I do keep my tires right at 31 PSI which helps quite a bit.

Tires at 32psi will help a lot and adding weight will also help. Weight can be added around the spare under the rear panel. I added a couple bags of tube sand to the back of my Rents 2011 and it definitely helped smooth her out.

Maybe a dumb question but how do you tell which side is bad? I've had one clicking for a long time on my 2011 SEL and want to replace it. I've always thought it was the passenger side but I want to be sure before I pickup the new one.

This guy makes it look pretty easy without a lift and makes me want to tackle this job myself. Sorry Mac, he made it look easier then your vid:):):)

Got a chance to investigate the clicking a little closer and it's definitely the strut mounts and not the axle. The coil spring is binding up especially when it's cold. Gonna be a little more expensive than I was hoping:(:(

Thanks Paul, really helpful.:) I was surprised how cheap they are even at AA and AZ.

I'm guessing 255/60/18s will rub a little but please let us know if you end up going with that size. I personally just like the looks of a wider tire.:):)

Got a clicky passenger side CV joint on my 2011 FWD SEL. Anyone here do this job themselves lately? I usually do repairs like this myself and was just wondering if it's worth it. Looks like a whole new shaft is only around a hundred bucks. Any particular brand better then others?

I wouldn't hesitate at all to have the rotors turned. I've run Thermo Quiets on all my vehicles for a long time and don't have any complaints. I get zero dust from them on my 11 SEL which I actually find kinda strange.

I just drain and refill the radiator about every 20,000 or so. I'm sure a total flush and refill would be better but a quick radiator drain and refill is all I've been doing. I remember reading that Ford's Dark Green coolant was fine and it was either the orange or gold that was suspected of not having enough lubricity for the water pump bearings. I just hit 112.000 on my 3.5 SEL.

No. I'm talking about their old Endura shine product they discontinued. https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101-a/78659-coated-my-tires-today-wow.html https://www.walmart.com/ip/Turtle-Wax-Jet-Black-Black-Endura-Shine-Tire-Coat-Kit/36610691 The Trim Coat is still available on E-bay which some say is the same thing. I still have 4 bottles of the trim coat but haven't tried it on my tires yet. The Trim Coat is also an amazing product that lasts well over a year and makes the trim on my 2011 look brand spankin new even though it's completely faded.

I've only got one more bottle of turtle wax Tire Coat left and they don't make it anymore. I'm sure there's another product like it out there but I haven't looked yet. Stuff is awesome and lasts about 6 months on my daily drivers. Don't think I could ever go back to constantly cleaning and using typical tire dressings.

Anyone try these in a 2011-2014 yet?? I'm still running an old set of DDM 35/5000 HIDs in my 2011 but wouldn't mind giving these a try.

My 2011 (100,000 miles) has a loud clicking noise when turning right at slow speeds. I'm thinking strut bearing. Is the sound coming from the spring rotating in it's seat or the bearing itself? Any quick fixes with a can of lube or does it have to be replaced?

Haven't driven it much except a 500 mile run up north and back. Thanks to you guys, I'm now convinced it's the passenger side CV Joint. Is this something I need to have done immediately or am I cool for quite a while? I'm a do-it-yourselfer and planning on attacking this issue sometime in the Michigan summer.

I've had a 35/5000 DDM Kit with a custom harness in my 2011 SEL for over 7 years. DDM replaced a ballast in year two under warranty. I purchased two kits thinking I may need spare parts but haven't had to use it. Not sure if DDM's quality has changed since installing mine 7 years ago but it still looks like they have great prices.

Seems like you really should get reimbursed if it was indeed the front drivers door and you had it done at a Ford Dealership. They're making it sound like they'll only cover the cost if it breaks between the time you received this notice to July 2020.

I just received a notice about the front drivers side door latch on my 2011 SEL. Customer Satisfaction Program 19N09. Looks like it's covered to 120,000 miles or July 2020.

I usually get a lot more life out of 65 series batteries then 59. My 2011 came with a 59 but was also designed to take a 65. Needless to say there's a big ole 65 under the hood these days.

Will do, Thanks!!!:)

I'm gonna test it out better the next couple days and then post some more info. It's been a clickin for a long time.

I did read about the Explorer CV Joint issues. Looks like they had a cheap fix:

I'll give you $2000.00 for it. Let me know where to pick it up and I'll have cash.:):)