fishx65

I had a dealership diagnose my front clicking noise as a bad strut mount bearing and is the reason I replaced mine before figuring out it was the CV axle. I guess it really doesn't matter in your case since you have an extended warranty.

I just did this a few weeks ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1NvtUwfRJc

Wow, it almost sounds like something is preventing the spring or strut from compressing which would explain how the metal around the upper strut bolt is breaking apart. I would think you'd really feel it if the strut or spring wasn't compressing. It would take a lot of force to tear that upper strut mount plate. Has your Edge ever been in a bad accident? Now that I think about it, I did end up removing the 4 upper bolts to turn the strut assembly after noticing it should be installed a certain way. Maybe that could be the problem.

Definitely a bad CV axle and most likely the passenger side. Fairly easy and inexpensive repair.

Exactly how is your strut mount damaged? Besides worn bearings, I really can't see how an upper strut mount can go bad. Are you sure the 4 upper mounting bolts are torqued properly? I, unnecessarily, replaced an upper strut mount a few months ago thinking it was the cause of a clicking sound I had.

It could definitely be front swaybar end links. I had to replace mine at about 80,000 miles on my 2011. Bad links will make a clunking sound when going over bumps. Just like I did with my CV axle, I used cheap aftermarket links the first time and had to replace them almost immediately. I ended up replacing them with a set of Moogs that have zerk fittings and they've been perfect.

If it's a steady loud clicking noise when turning at low speeds the odds are extremely high that it's a bad CV axle. I drove my Edge for about 30,000 miles before I got around to replacing it a few weeks ago. Good news is, it's a fairly inexpensive repair especially if you have the ability to do it yourself with the help of some great Youtube vids. I had to replace mine twice because I made the big mistake of using an aftermarket CV axle that I purchased at Autozone. Even if you don't do it yourself, make sure that it's replaced with a Motorcraft axle. Mine was the passenger side.

Make sure to check if your Edge's tray has room for a bigger battery. Not sure about the newer Edges but the 11-14 could take the bigger battery even if they weren't originally equipped with it. If I remember correctly, Edges with remote start already had the larger battery.

Not sure if it's common but the CV axle I purchased at Autozone is not balanced or the CV joints are bad. I'm getting a shimmy when accelerating and it seems to be getting worse. I will be replacing it with a genuine Ford part and getting a refund from Autozone. I highly recommend grabbing one from the stealership for $170.00. Just a quick update: The brand new Auto Zone axle had a really bad inner CV joint. Put the Motorcraft CV axle in last night and it's perfect:) Only took a half hour this time!!

It was pretty easy to get the new CV axle in. I crawled under and held it in place while a buddy tapped it in with a rubber mallet. The whole job from start to finish took about an hour and a half and was exactly how it looked in that TRQ Youtube vid. I just used a floor jack and jack stand to lift the passenger side. My torque wrench only goes to 150 ft lbs so I just cranked the axle nut on with a hunk of pipe which was probably pretty close to 268 ft lbs. Paid $130.00 for the new axle and a 36mm socket from Autozone. No more clicking when turning to the right!!!! It was way easier than I thought it would be:) The $575 quote you received for both sides seems extremely reasonable if it includes both CV axles.

There's a pretty good "How-to" Youtube video by TRQ which makes it look super easy. Ran out to Autozone this morning and grabbed the CV Axle and a 36mm socket. Only took me a half hour to get the axle out but will wait for a friend this afternoon to install the new one. Definitely worth doing if you have the time and a little mechanical ability. I'll edit this post later if I run into any snags putting the new one in.

I just replaced the passenger side strut mount hoping it was the clicking problem in my 2011 SEL. It wasn't so I'm gonna replace the CV axle next. Looks like a fairly easy job so I'm thinking of just grabbing one at Autozone for $110.00 and doing it myself. Mine clicks while turning right at slow speed.

After some research I decided to slowly change out the specialty green with the newer yellow coolant by doing about 4 radiator drain and refills. I did find a few gallons of specialty green for sale but might as well get it changed over since Ford stopped making the green.

If they shine about 3 feet the odds are really high that the bulbs are not installed properly. Someone probably missed a tab and they're both at an angle. That said, 11-14 Edge's have very weak headlights if they came with halogen bulbs. I've run Hids in my 2011 for years but I suppose there are some good LED options out there by now.

That HID kit should be fine. They're all pretty much just cheap Chinese kits at that price range. I finally had a bulb go out in my 2011 yesterday which has been sporting a $45.00 35/5000 DDM kit for almost 10 years.