fishx65

Does it go forward when you put it in reverse? Sorry, couldn't resist.:):):)

35 watt hids are super easy to install and make a tremendous difference in the 2011-2014s. My $40.00 DDM kit has been going strong for about 7 years.

For what it's worth, the original Latitudes on my 2011 lasted around 60,000 and the Yoko YK580's I replaced them with only lasted around 38,000. I've never had good luck with Yokohama tires. Right now I'm sporting a set of Continental LX22's that seem really good so far but I've only had them for about 10,000. If Latitudes weren't so ridiculously priced I'd probably stick with them. Getting ready to throw a set of Continental Pro-Contacts on the old Taurus soon.

I don't think it's uncommon for today's vehicles to wear out rear brakes before fronts but 20,000 miles seems crazy. I changed out the fronts and rears on my 2011 at 60,000 and the rears were definitely way more worn then the fronts. I'm sure pure city driving and driving habits can play a big part in brake wear. Do you drive like Speed Racer and never leave the City??:):)

I also live in a rust-belt but haven't had a weld problem like your pics show. That's serious rust ya got there and is the reason I keep mine under-coated. I did have both sway bar links go bad and replace them with Moogs. My Edge is also a 2011 with around 100,000 miles.

Not sure what brand you're using but Mac, along with others on this site, claim that Motorcraft strut mounts are the way to go. I'll be doing the struts on my 2011 eventually and will definitely stick with Motorcraft for the mounts regardless of the strut brand I use.

How does it sound?? I just picked up an amp with high level inputs so I can run a small sub by taping into the rear speaker leads. If you don't mind me asking, where did you tap into the rear speaker wires????

Mac, besides losing some oil between changes, is there any reason to change out the valve cover? I think I remember reading something about oil getting into the throttle body but not sure if it hurts anything.

Anyone have a problem with Wally full synthetic Supertech 5w20? Thinking about running it in my 2008 Taurus winter beater that has 85,000 miles on it.

Just ordered 4 sets of brake pads for my 2011 Edge SEL and 2008 Taurus. Pepboys was having a crazy sale on their in-house Prostop brand ($10.00 per set!!!). 3 of the sets are ceramic but the rear set for the Edge is listed as organic. Another strange thing is that both sets for the Taurus are made by Bosch but not the ones for the Edge. Is there a reason why the rear pads for the Edge are listed as organic? Did the Edge come from the factory with organic rear pads??? Was thinking of returning the one organic set and going with Ceramics. I realize that ceramic is not always the best choice of material but I do like how they don't dust. Pretty sure the last time I did the Edge's brakes I went with Thermos all the way around and they can be a little squeaky in the mornings.

Keep in mind that Fords can go into " limp mode" when something is wrong that can damage the engine or trans. Dash light will come on and ya won't have much engine power.

I'm going with throttle body or COPs. I remember getting the throttle body replaced on my 2011 under a recall about 2 years ago. I didn't have any drive-ability issues and was well past my warranty period when they replaced it at no-charge.

Oops, forgot about that Triple W. Thanks for clarifying.!! I wonder how much longer these COP kits will be floating around. Pretty sure Ford would rather sell them individually!!!:)

If you're gonna have your mechanic change the plugs and COPs I'd purchase the whole Motorcraft kit for around $150.00 and hand it to him. Comes with 6 plugs, 6 COPs and the UI gaskets. At the very least have him replace the back 3 while he has the Upper Intake off.

Does the Curt still hang to low like it did on 2011-2014 Edges? I always liked how you could only see the receiver on the Hidden Hitch models.