EDST777

Help.To me such numbers met
7T4Z 3A329B
7T4Z3A329BD
DT4Z3A329A
8T4Z3A329A
7T4Z3A428D
what of them will be a worker of Ford EDGE 3.5 2008 AWD Limited 2FMDK49C08BA19802 for me?

Faced now with a problem: on a dirt road, the car shook and the dipped headlights disappeared, drove to the place on fog lights when he removed the key from the ignition, it did not turn off the light of the side lights in front, apparently the contacts in the PCM block stuck. I removed the battery clip for 40 seconds, but it didnt help, I left the car without a clip until the morning. We had such similar problems in the group, what can this be connected with, what can be checked? Please any thoughts...

  In the spring I had a case when the parking lights did not turn off, then the problem was solved by removing the battery clack and until this time the problem did not manifest. I fear that it is a PCM fault, can be fixed without changing the control unit, can be tested something else ? If you change the control unit, then how to select it from the secondary market, so as to avoid programming. Is it possible to repair the base element of my block of failure? Many questions , please any thoughts.

  ...also I found information that it may be a problem of the light switch headlamp , which forward 
 Check and how?

Hi, how do you rate the rear suspension trimmers of the car , such as Bilstein 19282992 or better to choose something else?

Hi. I want to clarify the type of oil in my Ford EDGE 2008 AWD Limited.  In the guide . which may be out of date specified oil type with WSP M2C197-A SAE 80W-90 tolerance , but I read that now recommend it to replace by 75W-140 
other oils, Ford WSS-M2C192-A compliant specifications or at least me on 75w-90.  What choice do I have? I have a normal mode, without trailer, mainly it is an urban cycle, summer 25 (77F)-30 ( 86F) degrees Celsius, zmimy -15 (-59F) to -30 (-86F) degrees Celsius .

hi, should I lubricate the bolts with copper grease when installing CA Control ARM or is this an unnecessary step? Also ask to explain why you need the replacement of front bolts , as it is necessary, they seem quite strong , more than class 10,  anyone heard about problems because of these bolts?

Hello, when do you recommend the replacement of front control arms if the car is 17 years 10/2007 year of manufacture , 2008 model year and 202,000 km ? Do you need to do it and will it make driving more comfortable,  that is, will the car become softer and so on...?

hi, what are the signs of replacing struts and amortisers and springs? Everything is fine with the car’s behavior, but recently there was a slight vibration from asphalt in the city, I seem to feel all these roughness and waves, but the car does not rock , what can be ? Amortissers, springs? now I have 202,000 km and I have never made this replacement...

On 12/22/2022 at 2:30 AM, raddison said:

Thank you very much enigma-2 for the research you put into your answer. I did in fact check all the parts using RepairLink and cross referenced the parts numbers including the reverse sensors. The parts that mattered seemed to match. But in our industry I have seen where parts match but still don’t fit because the parts are mounted slightly over from the previous model year. It’s rare but it does happen. If nobody else has done this I may have to be the guinea pig. Just hate spending over $200 on a guess. 

Thank you either way. 

Hi, how was the experience with the replacement?

On 22.01.2023 at 19:26, wallybirt said:

Спасибо всем. Заменил оба датчика вверх по потоку, движок едет как новый.

Hi, what model of sensors did you install?

21 minutes ago, DILLARD000 said:

A Bosch 15719 with 24i00 0m610 Long Cable+Plug is good to replace any Ford 4WireNarrowBand Sensor, just ZipTie extra cable away from Hot\Moving parts.

The FordMotorCraft parts are 7t4z-9f472-a\7t4z-9f593-a\5f9z-9g444-ab\dy1056, but no need to pay jacked up dealership prices, just buy the Bosch sensors.

 

Again, Bosch is the original equipment maker+supplier for these sensors to Ford factories and dealerships; same item, just a different part number in a different box.

Again, upstream and downstream sensors have the same sensor head and the same connector; only difference is the 4wire cable length,

so the longer cabled sensor can be used in any position.  If you are not convinced or comfortable with this, okay pay for Ford boxed parts and\or dealership labor.

It's your vehicle, it's your money, it's your choice.  Can't speak\vouch for any other brand of OxSensors beyond Bosch or Ford.

 

Thank you for your help, I appreciate it, your experience is important to me. The question about the Bosch 15719 sensor came up because I was looking at reviews on amazon for this sensor, and there were any number of people who had experienced failure when installing a non-genuine sensor, even when it was listed as a suitable replacement. Bosch commented that this is due to the sensor being larger than the original or having a longer wire, perhaps this is just a formal response from Bosch, but I thought I'd clarify. If you have installed this particular sensor that would be a good sign for me to buy. Also wanted to clarify, if the low flow sensors do not affect the formation of the fuel mixture (as I understand they give a signal only when the catalyst is defective), can I just replace the two upper flow sensors, because my low flow sensors do not give now errors, my task to reduce fuel consumption, and this is the work of the upper flow sensors. What do you think about this ? any thoughts.....

On 1/9/2023 at 1:16 PM, DILLARD000 said:

Need to state basic vehicle specs: Year + Model + Engine +....

in your profile+signature+thread; makes asking+answering questions much easier+quicker.

Personally, I've burned out all my "mind reading" senses over several decades trying to figure out what\who my wife is talking about.

 

I know for the 2007~2010 Ford Edge\MKX, there are 4 NarrowBand OxSensors, each has a different length 4wire cable,

but the Sensors & the 4pin connectors are all the same & interchangable,

so a Bosch 15719 with the long 24i00 0m610 Cable+Plug is good to replace any of those 4 NarrowBand Sensors

 just use black ZipTies to secure\coil & route the Cable away from Hot\Moving parts.

Of course Ford has different chaotic part numbers for each CarModel + specific sensor & dealerships will gladly sell them at jacked up prices.

Just buy\order equivalent Bosch (FactoryOE supplier) new sensors for the best price you can find.

Yep, these OxSensors do wear out & need to be renewed every 100kMiles\12years

along with Iginition Plugs+Wires, to maintain engine performance & MPGs.

also want to clarify the following: on rockauto system gives two types of sensors:  BOSCH 15724 for down stream and BOSCH 15755 for up stream.  BOSCH 15724 is twice as cheap, does this mean that I can buy 4 BOSCH 15724 sensors, which will work like two overhead flow and two downstream flow. You said they were functionally and technically identical?

On 1/24/2023 at 5:03 AM, DILLARD000 said:

Thing about OxSensors is they have a chemical sensing element that wears out with usage+time;

as they wear out, gradually their signal becomes increasingly erroneously biased towards high oxygen content,

causing the Computer\PCM to compensate & bias the Fuel|Air mix towards rich,

thus MPGs tend to slowly decrease as OxSensors age & CatConvertors gradually run hotter to burn off that excess fuel.

Eventually their signal will bias enough to be out of range of PCM program limits & sets a TroubleCode;

well before that happens you're definitely paying for lower MPGs & wearing\burning out the CatCons prematurely.

Ford doesn't have a problem with you paying more for fuel or paying them to replace CatCons.

 

 

 

 

Hi! Thanks for the valuable information about oxygen sensors! Very few details about these sensors, very little information when they need to be replaced. My observations are that the owners of the Ford EDGE replace them when there is any error on these sensors, but now we know from this topic that the sensors need to be replaced. This is the preamble.
 I own the 2008 FORD EDGE AWD , I now have 202,000 km and I’ve never changed these sensors since I bought a car for 80,000 km in 2011. My gasoline consumption in the summer is 17 liters per 100 km, in the winter it’s 19 liters per 100 km , where I live frosty winters,  winter weather is like the weather in Canada, average temperature from -10 to -20 degrees C . I would like to replace these sensors, but should I buy BOSH or can I use for example also Stellox? 

On 9/24/2022 at 1:07 PM, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

prob stupid question, but have you reset the mpg since you got it?

 

do you drive primarily in the city or heavy traffic?

 

new plugs will be a nice boost if the installed plugs are original to the car.  motorcraft plugs are your best bet. you can find the coils in a pack from an online ford dealer ba5z12259a. the gaskets and plugs will not fit your MY tho. ford keeps raising the price, but still better than paying for them individually.

 

definitely assess the health of the ptu and rdu.

 

hopefully you had new chains and tensioners installed with the water pump, bonus if you did the vct solenoids as well.

why change the solenoids, they are reliable enough, what can happen to them, what kind of damage?... it seems to me that it is possible to replace rubber rings, seals on them and this will be enough, perhaps I do not know about something....

On 11/24/2022 at 10:27 AM, Justin400 said:

My issues started about 6 mos ago with issues starting occasionally. Engine would always start but seemed to crank excessively. Well the other day when on a road trip to visit the family it started to shudder while accelerating at around 3500-4500 rpm. Then I got a misfire code. Replaced sparkies and coils since it is at 150k miles already. Problem still occurs. Threw some injector cleaner in with no expectation it would help. Fuel pump has been tested and it’s within spec. I have a dealer appointment Friday but I’m supposed to drive back home Monday. It idles fine but it’s when accelerating hard it becomes problematic. It also feels like there is some resistance when accelerating in general but no misfires. Not burning coolant or oil so doubt it’s a head gasket issue. 

Hi, what was the problem, how did you solve it?

On 5/18/2021 at 7:44 PM, union111 said:

Thanks to all. The filter has been replaced. Another model masuma fit well.

which model is suitable?

Hi. An interesting question is, at what time after the car is released to change the fuel pump, when the car has already traveled more than 200,000 km, and the car is a 2008 model, all-wheel drive, it is also important that most of the car’s service life is These are short trips. There are no obvious problems, it works without noise, but what worries me is that on the highway, during emergency acceleration, there is no good traction, the car does not drive very dynamically, it drives, but it seems to me that it should go faster with a 3.5 liter engine and 264 horses of power. I suspect the fuel pump is not as good as it was 16 years ago. Any thoughts.

Hello. How often do you need to change the AWD 2008 fuel pump, what is its resource from statistics on statistics?

Please, does anyone know this?)

9 hours ago, dabangsta said:

Обычная вики-проверка применима к справочным сноскам.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Fusion_(Americas)#Yearly_U.S._sales

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Edge#Продажи

 

 

 

what tool did you do it with, separately? did you find both parameters and then did the processing and comparison in Excel ? or is it possible to do this cp when searching on google?

yes, latches are also an empty problem)))

Nobody does it))

I am also interested in this question, but there is little information on it, strangely no one is interested in it.

Buy headlight glass separately for 1.0 2008.Is it possible?
I would like to buy headlight glasses for my car, as they are all beaten up with sand and still look good, but not as good as new. There is such a possibility in many other cars, a glass repair kit, but does our generation 1.0 have such a possibility? In addition, I am interested in the opinion of people who installed alternative headlights with two lenses,

,

if you buy such headlights and install LED lamps in them, perhaps this will be the best solution to improve lighting, who did it? From YouTube videos, it seemed to me that the simple replacement of regular headlights with updated ones with two lenses did not greatly impress the owners, they talked more about the beautiful view, but I need not just a good view, but also good lighting. Who did this, how can the light be improved by 1.0 generation and can I order glasses separately?

Hi.Replacement of the rear silent blocks holding the RDU in the beam and in brackets .Has anyone ever done this?
I am interested in replacing 4B424 ( 7E5Z 4B42 4D) and 4B425 (7T4Z 4B42 5B) silent blocks on my 2008 Limited AWD , I have never heard of their replacement here and have not seen a single mention on Yutube or the forum about it. It feels like they are eternal, but they are damaged for me, it's not critical, but it is. The damage lies in the fact that the rubber is torn off from the bushing, this can be diagnosed with a mounting mount by moving the gearbox along the axis of the car, while if you move the gearbox across (from side to side, left to right) there are no beats and bumps, no knocks. The rubber itself is not damaged, it is torn off from the aluminum central bushing. I was informed that such an operation option is quite acceptable, since it does not create transverse beats and knocks, there is only a small longitudinal displacement (I think so when the clutch is turned on). But it bothers me, and I would like to get the experience of those who paid attention to it. In addition, I have made statistics and almost all 1-1.5 gen cars currently have these silent blocks damaged in the same way as mine. It is strange that no one talks about replacing them, does not mention that they need to be changed. Any thoughts on this, thank you.