EDST777

Hello. This topic has also become more active for me. After replacing the wheels with winter tires two weeks ago, the sensor learning procedure did not end successfully, it stops on the RR tire. Tomorrow I want to try to put a tire with summer tires during the training and finish the training. So I want to make sure that the RL sensor is working and I only need to replace the RR sensor. I want to ask a question why during training you can't just put a sensor not mounted in the tire. Is it related to the pressure that must be present in the tire to pass the test? I also do not understand why Ford makes do each training time when changing wheels and don't store sensors in memory. Thanks for any comments on this topic.

Hey! I own a 2008 Limited, when using voice control, my command to turn on Bluetooth in 95% of cases is not perceived by the SYNC system. All other commands such as Line In, USB, Phone are well accepted by the system. Only occasionally is the Blue Tooth command accepted by the system and a switch occurs. I am forced to constantly switch to blue tooth through the menu of my standard multimedia systems. This is very inconvenient. Along the way, I want to ask a question, why in the standard system it is not possible to select the inclusion of a blue tooth by default (by default, the "line in" is always turned on)! I ask for advice on what this reason for the unsuccessful voice connection may be connected with. I thought it might be related to my English pronunciation and tried to scream harder, change pronunciation, intonation, but it doesn't help ...LOL. Any thoughts. P.s .I also want to know why very often, when reconnecting (got out of the car and returned after a while), any phone, regardless of the model, very often does not connect through the blue tooth. Now my phone is Somsung A 52 (2021): it often connects , often not connected, about 50% to 50%. Is this a problem with the software and old version of the multimedia device?

Definitely, in any car without a sunroof, or without a roof like Vista Roof, there will be up to 5 centimeters of extra space overhead, little drivers will not understand this !!! Lol

Did you manage to fit 245/55 r20 tires?

Thanks, I'll do that, but visually the SJB is in great condition, the errors it gives out don't specify the location , that's sad ( it could be a breakage , short circuit on any of the four lines or a general bad connection to the negative , by the way... they could make an error that specifically indicates a fault). But my concern right now is the resistance of the section from the negative battery terminal to the bolt on the car chassis. This section is about 30 centimeters long, it is a piece of black power wire. This section gives me a measurement of 8 ohms, it is amazing, I asked to measure the same section at 1.5 gen on another car, the measurement there showed 0.6 ohms. This is a big difference, I can not understand what is the reason why this short section gives me 8 ohms, can someone tell me what the resistance should be there when it is working. This gives me reason to think that my connection to the chassis is wrong somewhere for some reason...Thanks, any thoughts on checking this out....

Hi. I apologize for repeating my question in a personal thread. To solve the problem, which is described below, I need to know all the points of connection of the negative contact to the chassis in order to clean them. Who can indicate these places? Hi. All week I can not fix the errors that I read Forscan and the problem with which it all started: frequent blinking of turns, VERY STRANGE STORY! Any thoughts of yours are very valuable to me. I need your help. So the situation: a week ago, I noticed that when turning on the turn, he began to blink faster 160 times per minute, this happens when the lamp is damaged. I found that the lamps are all intact, but blink faster when turning on the turns, at the same time when I turned on The alarm lamp blinks 80 times per minute. Using forscan, I got GEM / SJB errors: B106E-60 (the output amplifier stage is disabled due to a short circuit) and B2A2B-60 (short circuit to ground of the left turn indicator electrical circuit), ... a day later, the error B2A2C-60 was added (short circuit on the weight of the electrical circuit of the right turn indicator). Now these three errors persist, but the left and right port lamps (front and rear) are working properly, but they flash at a frequency of 160 times per minute. I checked all the contacts on all the lamps, tried to change some of the lamps, hoping to eliminate the SJB error, ... temporarily disconnected the wire connectors on the SJB unit in the car, hoping in this way to determine the malfunction, that is, to remove a possible alleged short circuit in the wires ... but errors are not deleted ... they are present. I lose any thoughts, strengths and guesses: SJB informs me that there is a short circuit and the output amplifier stage is turned off, ... but at the same time, all the turn lamps are working properly, flickering at a frequency of 160 times per minute, as if speaking of an error. There was nothing special about the whole story, the situation did not precede, everything worked properly, there was no rain, I did not ride on water. As on many cars, my lamp connectors have a dark smoke color, but the connector pins are clean. Any thoughts ... I would like to know how the system cleans up the error, perhaps the self-test takes several days and so the error persists? If there is a real short circuit, why are my lamps working fine? Any thoughts please !!!

I have this in the summer, in the heat of 30C, after the highway, it is very hot under the hood. I communicate with the owners of Edge, in Russia, many pay attention to this, the engine compartment heats up a lot ..., but I only have about 30 celsius.

Hi Friends, today I removed the drive shaft, it has the same damage, the rubber bands of the outboard bearings are torn. I want to replace the outboard bearings, front and rear, and have already ordered them (Febest, they are the same as on the Mazda CX-9), but I don’t understand how to separate the three parts of the drive shaft for replacement, does anyone know how to do this?

I wonder what he means by poor maintenance ... is it not a frequent, non-regular coolant change?

I wonder what he means by poor maintenance ... is it not a frequent, non-regular coolant change?

Thank you. You mean this video In this video, when replacing liquid, the wheel spins from edge to edge, from stop to stop..., as I said, there is a change of liquid in parts... Did you mean that video? ?

incredibly now it worked, I tried all sorts of ways, maybe it's about my software...As always thank you for your professional advice..., I have studied the guide, try to follow this rule if there is such an opportunity,... and I am concerned about the ATF fluid filling stage: this is done in the manual with a special vacuum tool. This is a problem for me, I do not have such an instrument! I hope when replacing the high-pressure line 8T4Z3A719A , which I plan to change, I will simply be able to add ATF liquid and rotate the steering wheel from stop to stop in different directions and this will be enough?

As always thank you for your professional advice...

Hi, this file is not loading,can anyone update it again?

Hi. I plan to independently replace the pump or water pump, who better like the name. Now YouTube gives a lot of video on Ford EDGE, Exploer, Flex and I've looked through all the stages, it's possible to do it slowly on my own in two, three days, as I think, but I have some questions, ask your help experienced colleagues, any thoughts, so: - everywhere it is indicated that it is necessary to fix distribution shafts with a special tool 303-1248, but this is very expensive for us, the cost of the tool reaches $300. At the same time, I have repeatedly observed that some people have replaced the pump without the 303-1248 tool and this is logical,... because when replacing the pump, you can use the marks on the main chain, the crankshaft sprocket mark and the marks on the VCT assembly. I will not remove two auxiliary small chains, I will not twist and therefore the position of the camshafts will not change, I can think that I will do the same without a special tool 303-1248, before removing the main chain, turning the gas distribution mechanism clockwise to the desired position (to) marks? What are your thoughts, what is the function of the tool 303-1248 in this case, my thoughts that it is not necessary here, what are my risks of working without the tool, I hope the meaning of my questions is clear, I apologize for my English.