EdgeNut

If you happen to own a bike with a carbon fiber frame, you may want to avoid this style of carrier. I'f heard of people having issues with the frame clamp rubbing through the gel coat into the layup, basically ruining the frame. For carbon fiber bikes, look for a carrier that grabs the tires only. Yakima High Roller is a great option if you prefer to transport your bike with both wheels on

3/32" of tread depth is on the significant side of things, but might not be much different than the mismatch between the mini-spare and a brand new tire. For future reference, you probably would have been fine driving around a little while on the new, mismatched tire, but it could cause some stress on the AWD system in the long-term. For what it's worth, there's a local shop here that will grind down a tire to size for $15. All depends on how much usable tread you have left on the remaining tires.

Sharp-lookin' ride! Definitely like the Sport in red. Hope you enjoy it!

Remember that PWM thing you so astutely brought up? That is how brake pressure can be released smoothly. The valves in these systems are opened and closed at high frequency to gently release pressure. Though I would agree that Toyota doesn't do this very well... ... and, a lateral accelerometer and a yaw rate sensor are completely different things - one measures a linear quantity, the other measures a rotational quantity. There's no confusing those two. And yes, wheel speed sensors are effective at measuring motion. However, the other vehicle sensors can identify if a vehicle is on a hill while stopped, because the dominant external force is gravity, which will show up on the longitudinal accelerometer when the vehicle is pointed uphill or downhill. That's how the systems work without needing the vehicle to roll back... Here's some light reading about stability control from our friends at NHTSA - a good read for learning some basics about these systems, and the federal requirements for OEMs to install them: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/staticfiles/DOT/N..._FR_03_2007.pdf Although this has been fun, I think we've wandered far enough away from the original 'trans problems' topic. On that note, happy reading, I'm out... :beerchug:

I suggest you keep studying... If you think you can feel something at 100-150Hz as 'abrupt', you're fooling yourself - these systems can easily bleed off brake pressure slowly, whether that pressure was delivered by the driver's foot, or the stability control pump. I for one have felt how Toyota implements their stability control, and think you may have a skewed perception. Toyota is by no means the leader in this department, and you'll be reminded of that by the constant chime you get whenever stability control kicks in and practically shuts the car down. ... and you left out the fact that all stability control systems include a yaw rate sensor and longitudinal accelerometer (us lucky Ford-types get a roll sensor as well). The longitudinal accelerometer is the one that can tell if you're stopped facing up or down a hill. Maybe Toyotas aren't all they're cracked up to be? I've experienced the hill assist function in the Mini Cooper with a manual transmission, and it's brilliant. Go drive one of those before you suggest that automakers can't deliver a smooth system. Maybe the lack of refinement is specific to Toyota...

Yes, Ford and every other manufacturer/supplier that has stability control has found a way to smoothly control that valve between 100 and 150 times per second. That's not news... ... and the Edge doesn't have any electronic brake application, it's only hydraulic. Some other vehicles have an electric park brake, which is another way hill assist can be implemented, and implemented smoothly I might add. ... and hill assist doesn't engage every time you hit the brakes and come to a stop because the sensors used by the stability control system can tell if you're on a hill, whether facing upwards or downwards. Some hill assist systems will even help you if you're pointed down hill, with the transmission in reverse. Have you ever actually driven a vehicle with hill assist? I ask because these systems are nearly transparent, and quite nicely integrated.

Wrong again... Hill assist systems do not require the vehicle to roll back to engage, as they typically hold some level of driver braking to allow a smooth transition to the gas pedal without rolling back. As the gas pedal is depressed, brake pressure is ramped out. And for what it's worth, stability control has always been standard on the Edge...

Alright, definitely need to clear this one up, as you obviously don't understand why hill descent control is so helpful... Yes, the system uses the brakes, but automatically feathers the brakes to maintain a constant, slow speed. Otherwise, speed will often increase quickly due to changes in driving surface, causing the driver to need to press the brakes harder. As speed increases, and brake pressure increases, heat dissipation increases. Particularly on the grades this system is designed for, you are much MORE likely to overheat brakes left to your own devices, compared to when hill descent control is enabled. You should consider learning more about these systems before you comment so vehemently about them...

Well gang, this has been some fun reading, and I wish you all a wonderful Thanksgiving. As for us, we're heading up to the mountains in our awesome 2007 AWD Edge, which has had absolutely zero problems, driveline or otherwise. The forecast looks good this year, but we'll certainly be laughing at the memories from last year, when we drove through the big Summit County blizzard. Pretty funny watching all those 2WD cars and crossovers that couldn't climb a straight grade, and were slipping sideways into the shoulder!! Cheers! :beerchug:

All of the torque distribution is handled as needed by the AWD and stability/traction control systems (much like the Acura or any other system). Installing different diameter tires would only increase the risk of burning up the AWD hardware, as it will be constantly compensating for the difference in rotational speed between the front and rear axle. Also, it's even more important in winter to have the same tires front to rear to help maintain handling performance...

We've been using the Low Riders on factory rails for our ski rack, and they work great. Very easy to take on and off. Might want to mark where you have them on the crossbars with tape or paint pen, though, since there's only one clamp that secures the rail and crossbar (makes it easier to keep things centered). Plenty secure, though!

Anyone want to sell me their 17" wheels? I live near Boulder, CO, and would consider picking them up in a reasonable area, or paying for shipping.

What kind of bumps? Do you hear the noise when you're going over rough roads, or do you hear it over road undulations and/or speed bumps?

How'd the stability control do with all the flogging? Must have been nice to take it out on a closed track!

For your interior, I highly recommend 303 aerospace protectant, which can be found at most auto stores. On top of the protective quality, it adds a richness to the interior panels without much gloss (read: not at all like ArmorAll). I've used it on my Mazda6, Mazda3, and Edge, and have been very happy with it. Cheers! :beerchug: