Edge_guy

A separate/improved switch design is always a possibility - but without actually taking the door apart to get a first-hand look at the design (as well as available space!) - its hard to see if an improvement could be made to the current design. If I do go thru the hassle to take the door apart and evaluate the latch design, I would most likely replace the switch with the factory switch and take relevant dimensions of everything while its apart. And then I'd work on a new design and have it in place in case the switch fails again. Finding off-the-shelf switches, that are sealed (due to the environment it's exposed to), that has similar mounting hole patterns, with action arm that is shaped correctly and articulates in the free space thats available to it inside the door is not something one just goes to NAPA and they're on the shelf! And I certainly wouldn't want my door in pieces for those weeks while the research was being done! Luckily, I'm a pretty good machinist and have a nice machine shop at work - so creating a custom mounting plate or articulation arm wouldn't be a problem - but again, having the access to the entire design is key. Unless I just order the replacement switch/latch mechanism from my dealer and see exactly what it looks like and what I have to work with - instead of taking apart the door?!? Hmmmmmm....... But sorry, no pics. Its just your basic "cut a wire and solder a loose wire onto it and connect the other end of the loose wire to ground". The cutting/soldering was done below the steering column at the fuse panel and I had to pull up the plastic bezel that went over the driver door threshold to expose the ground bolt I connected to. No tools/tricks needed to remove the bezel.......just pull straight up and walk off the bezel piece as it curls up the door edge by the door hinge. You just push it back into place when you're done. All I needed was a pair of wire cutters, wire strippers, soldering iron/flux/solder, electrical tape, ring terminal and a socket wrench to remove the ground bolt going into the chassis. Oh - and a scrap piece of wire! And I won't even mention a headlamp - what sort of car work can be done in this day and age without your trusty headlamp!?!? :-)

UPDATE! So I removed the harness from the BCM, and cut the white wire coming out of pin 5 about 1" away from the connector housing (since the front passenger door is the one I'm having the problem with). And the front passenger door ajar icon was displayed on the dash. So I stripped about 1/8" from the 1" stubby wire exiting the connector housing and attached a jumper wire to it and touched the other end to ground....and sure enough - the icon disappeared! So thats how the wiring has to be: each of the four pins I listed in my earlier post have to be connected to ground in order for the car to think the door is closed - and hence the door ajar icon will not be displayed. So I removed my jumper wire and soldered a ~18" 20awg black wire I had to the other end of the 1" stubby wire exiting the connector. I removed the plastic cover that covered the driver door threshold (which also runs up the the side of the door opening to the roof latch release lever) - which exposed two metal bolts that serve as ground contacts for other electrical circuits. So I soldered the other end of my black wire to a .25" terminal ring, placed terminal ring around one of the grounding bolts.....and TA-DA!! Now when I open the passenger door - there is NO door ajar icon warning anymore. Annoyance is gone - good riddance!

HA! Great minds think alike! I've been fighting with this for a long time now and its finally warm enough to fight this on my 2011 Edge. My driver door sensor quit working while still under warranty so they replaced the switch; passenger door switch started acting up this past winter and we've been putting up with it ever since. I did find a mediocre YouTube video of the complete disassembly of the door to gain access to the switch; but it was almost a 45 minute process - and to what end? Put another inferior specified/designed switch in its place?! I'm a mechanical engineer and thats just insane to me!! I love working with my hands but thats just a pure waste of time. We don't have children so my plan is to completely disable the sensor - we'll obviously know if the door is not latched! Currently, just the front passenger door is acting up, and this is the only door I'll "modify" at this time. I have the Helms DVD of schematics/connector pin-outs and such - a WORTHY investment, even though it doesn't work on Win 7/8. (That old Win XP laptop in the closet is now good for something again!) I have since found the following info: there is a 26-pin harness that plugs into the Body Control Module (BCM) (where the fuses are). This is the connector is located in the upper left corner of the BCM, above the row of F1, F2, F3, F4 fuses. On this 26-pin harness: pin 5 - white - passenger front ajar switch pin 9 - green/violet - driver front ajar switch pin 20 - green - driver rear ajar switch pin 21 - yellow - passenger rear ajar switch I'm not sure if the image I found on the DVD is the connector or the socket, so for reference: pin 1 is violet; pin 13 is NOT USED; pin 14 is green/orange; and pin 26 is white/green. I haven't had the opportunity to sever the passenger front wire yet to see if the door sensor switch is a N/O or N/C (normally open or closed) so its a 50/50 chance that simply cutting the wire will disable the warning......or I'll have to short each of these pins to ground to disable it. Hopefully I'll have some time sometime this week to cut the wire and see what happens. Or perhaps one of you will beat me to the punch?! I'll repost to this forum when I've had the chance to cut the wire and determine if the switch is N/O or N/C.

Sorry for the delay - am new to the forum thing and wasn't sure if I'd get an email that there was a post reply or not! Am running v2.11. Had the update done at the dealer when I was having my Environ Prot package applied - and they updated the install log on my web account. It looks like they installed v2.8 twice, then went to v2.11, then back to v2.8, and then back to v2.11. One can only wonder why!?! :-)

Ok - a little curiosity got the best of me.......150dpi works too.

This is my first post to the forum - so I hope I'm doing it right! I've have some pictures take and some be rejected. Then I was playing around with other settings - and I got it!!! I don't know what the magic number is - but all of pictures were cropped to be 800x378 pixels as the screen recommends.......but they all worked when they were LESS THAN 100dpi! My first pics that worked were 72dpi; but then my other ones that were 400 & even 600dpi kept erroring out. So I don't know if 100dpi is the upper limit, or if 200dpi, etc. So its not just the image size but also the images resolution. I'm a Photoshop weekend-warrior - so I have all sorts of tools and controls at my fingertips. I believe irfanview will allow you to down sample the dpi - and thats a pretty slick free download program I got my siblings hooked onto for this dig picture cropping, etc. If I'm bored one afternoon - I'll try and experiment to determine the max value before it fails; but I know under 100dpi works great.....and looks awesome too! Obviously these aren't HD displays!