Pete K

Changed the plugs this weekend at 130K. All is still well with my repair. 

It's been a long time.

As stated early in this thread, I repaired my 07 with new parts as per the TSB.

96,000 miles on it now, and no repeat failure. Knock on wood.

I may toss in a new set of spark plugs at 100K.

Just to update the thread:

After a many month battle, Ford did refund my money for the coil/pcm repair.

The new pcm received the latest programming, and this greatly improved the transmission shifting.

It is much more enjoyable to drive.

The PTO seal eventually did start to leak excessively, and wiping it down every oil change was not an option.

I did install the updated seal kit (which included a support spacer).

In order to solve the muffler insulator sagging situation, I lightly clamped hose clamps around them. This way they maintain their shape, and still do their job of dampening vibrations.

Because the trans shifts better, I would upgrade my rating to a B minus.

Well done Pete. Hope it stays leak free for a long while.

I see what you mean about the spline end of the shaft being unsupported. And relying on a little plastic donut to center and support such a heavy shaft is a joke. The spacer on mine was down to less than 1/3 of it's original size and had a wicked bevel worn into it.

I'm curious, how did you remove the deflector?

My 07 has 45,000 miles, and has never been apart until today.

It had no plastic spacer from the factory.

The deflector was a bear. I would up chipping a careful groove in it with a sharp chisel. You photo was helpful because it gave me an estimate of where things were, and what to avoid.

I had more difficulty installing the new deflector. No matter how much I heated it, it did not "snap" into position as described. I used a driver to re-install the new one, and did not want to hit it any harder for fear of causing harm.

Instead of being 3-5mm below the machined edge, it is flush with that edge.

I plan to keep my eye on it for a while. If it does pop loose, I have a plan b. It is only a dust seal, so I will cut a slot in it with a hacksaw (a new deflector), snap it in, and dress the edge and seam with a bead of RTV. This way, it will stay put, deflect debris, and be easily removed next time, with a razor slice. Based on the design as I see it, I will likely be installing another intermediate seal couple of years down the road.

I have a 2008 Edge Limited with 92,000 miles. I just got an cost estimate from my local Ford dealer that it would cost $380.00 for spark plug replacement! Is this the going rate?I live in Racine, WI. What have you paid for this???? (I know that the plenum needs to be removed).

Plenum Gaskets and plugs are $50.

It took me 2 hours, and I am certain a dealership can do it in 1 hour.

Unless the dealership hourly rate is $160-$320 dollars per hour this us not reflective of the going rate.

I didn't find anything is a seach.

I will snap many pictures, and possibly do a write up on it.

Ok, I have completed this project.

I am not suprised they leak. In my opinion, they have no choice due to the poor design.

Pass side half shaft (including the attached intermediate shaft) is close to (if not more than) 3 feet long. About midway, the shaft is supported by a rigid mount.

The end in the PTU is only jigged by the splines.

I am shocked that Ford did not install a bushing or bearing into the opening of the PTU intermediate shaft bore. In my opinion, it has to move around and compromise the seal.

The good news is that the most recent kit not only includes a replacement seal, but it includes a plastic collar that installs on top of the seal. The intention is to use the intermediate shaft bore to support the seal, and the new collar, assisting to take some of the load off the seal, during the wobble. The plastic seal is a semi-rigid plastic, so I cant imagine it going 100k miles, or more.

No worries Pete, I don't think I'm 100% on my terminology either.

The torque values I need are for the front suspension and brakes because most of this stuff needs to be removed to pull the axle shaft. There were a few M14x1.5 nuts I wasn't sure about.

What I'm looking for...

 

Axle shaft hub nut

Btm strut to knuckle pinch bolt (M14)

Tie rod end to knuckle nut (M14)

Lower ball joint to knuckle nut (M14)

Brake caliper carrier to knuckle bolts

Axle shaft steady bearing to housing nuts (M8)

ABS sensor to knuckle (M6)

Countersunk bolt for brake rotor (M8)

I will dig into the book and try to find them.

Hi Pete

 

I replaced the intermediate shaft seal. It holds back the red transmission fluid. Yes I took photos. I was wanting to write up a DIY for this job, just need to find some time. Still looking for the proper torque values for the various fasteners that need to be removed for this job.

This picture shows the two seals and the hollow shaft between them. The output shaft seal you mentioned is the larger (outer) seal for the PTU?

Thanks for the fast reply.

I believe my understanding of the unit, and my terminology was wrong.

Intermediate Shaft Seal is what is leaking ATF on mine.

My manual shows the following torque values:

Drive Pinion Nut- 27 inch lbs

Driveshaft to PTU output flange bolts- 52 Foot lbs

Fill Plug- 15 Foot lbs

PTU Cover Bolts- 24 Foot lbs

PTU Support Bracket Bolts- 52 Foot lbs

PTU to Transaxle Bolts- 66 Foot lbs

Well the weather improved and I had a free Saturday to tackle this so I went ahead and installed the new seal today. Everything went well with one exception, I had a bugger of a time removing the old deflector. I neglected to buy the special tool for this part of the job... it was $200 so I passed. It took me a while but I devised a method to remove it without hacking it completely to pieces. After the deflector everything went well. In all it took me about 4 hours.

Lets hope this is the last time i'll have to do this.

Did you replace the output shaft seal, or the seal that is between the trans and PTU?

You snap any photos?

here ya go

My humble thanks!!

Pretty sure it requires special tools and procedures. I don't recall anyone doing it themselves.

I didn't find anything is a seach.

I will snap many pictures, and possibly do a write up on it.

Looking for the TSB in the title that references the PTU fix.

If anyone has it, can you send it to my e-mail? vrodpete@msn.com

Thanks.

Has anyone performed the PTU seal replacement themselves? Any tips or tricks?

If the drips of what I am finding on the floor were engine oil, I would think that they would be the same color and viscosity of the engine oil that is in the engine. The drips are thicker than engine oil and very black in color. Also, I am the one who services the car, and I change the oil in it regularly. I have not noticed any drips coming from drain plug, either.

 

When the PTU was replaced a few years ago, we had a fluid on the floor that resembled transmission fluid. Would "gear oil" for the PTU look like what I am finding or more like transmission fluid?

 

My thanks to c_bova, FordGuru, and Pete K for your help.

 

CFDBattChief

Gear oil looks like motor oil.

Lighter color when new, and darkens to black as it ages, and absorbs dirt. One tool that can narrow it down in a hurry is a $50 UV dye kit. Dump in a little bit of the dye, drive for a day or 2, put on the magic glasses and turn on the light. It will glow green, all the way back to the exact leak point. Once you onw one, you will wonder why you didnt buy it years earlier.

Which proves the original dealer screwed up. Ford only goes by what the dealers tell them. If the original dealer had presented it as a failed PCM per the TSB then it would have been covered.

Yup.

Sounds like gear oil leaking out of the PTO, and landing on the middle of the exhaust pipe.

Don't discount the possibility of a PTO leak beacause it has been fixed once. Many have struggled with multiple leaks over time.

1-800-392-3673 Ford Customer Assistance

 

without having been to the nearest dealership, there is VERY little they can do for you. Regardless of reputation, tools, knowledge, or anything else the vehicle HAS to be diagnosed at a Ford dealership.

 

Not telling you not to call Ford, in fact i strongly encourage contacting Ford, ESPECIALLY, if you have a bad experience at any dealership. But if you have a repair issue please take it to a dealer before you call them. It'll save you a good half hour or longer

Based on my experience, this will yield nothing.

You will speak to someone who does not know what a PCM or coil is, then they will explain it is not under warranty (thus supporting their dealer).

When you ask to advance the complaint process, or speak to a higher authority, they will tell you it ends here.

Approx 3 weeks later, you will get a letter in the mail that politely tell you to go away, and the matter is closed.

*I hope you speak to someone more helpful than I did.

What worked for me was going back to the family owned dealership that sold me the Edge, and explain to them that Ford has placed me in a situation that would prevent me from being a return customer.

Being the great people they are, they fought for me internally, and won.

I can say that you should do everything you can, as soon as possible.

Restitution after the fact took me 4 months.

Just to update my situation, I received a check for full re-imbursement covering 100% of my out of pocket repairs.

Just to update my situation, I received a check for full re-imbursement covering 100% of my out of pocket repairs.

I don't think it's normal but the important part is your dealer. I've had cars with some small issues that became huge because of bad dealer service and big issues that weren't so bad because of good. If you have a good dealership service department don't fret it. Keep track of the issues and your paperwork just in case the worst happens down the road but I wouldn't fret it, just enjoy your awesome new ride and the looks on people's faces when they ask about your ride and rims and you tell them it's stock! I know we do!

My initial impressions of my 2007 (bought new) were pretty good.

The only thing I remember bothering me was the drivers seat clunking when pulling to a stop.

In 45k, it has not gotten worse, so I have learned to live with it.

Trans was weird shifting, and I got used to it as well. During a recent PCM replacement (and nescessary re-flashing of the PCM), it seemed to have taked the shift flare completely away.

Mine turned out to be pretty "tight" with none of the common, little annoyances that sometimes happen.

Everybody I've seen has had theirs fixed under warranty no questions asked except you. There is something you're not telling us or your dealer isn't telling you.

You have expressed your opinion in the other thread as well.

It doesnt matter at this point, and I don't have the time or resources to debate the chain of events I was present for. That isn't what this thread is about.

If I had this info at my disposal (TSB) before I was denyed, I am near sure my results would have been quite different.

Moving forward, I hope to help as many people as I can, not be taken advantage of by a less than honest dealer.

Every post helps move it closer to the top of the list in a google or bing search.

I just experienced this same problem but thanks to the TSB from Pete K. my 2007 Ford Edge was fixed. Big Valley Ford in Stockton, CA took great care of me. I had 74,000 miles on my car and this report, including the 8yr./ 80,000 warranty made my car whole again. I had the PCM, plugs (6) and coils (6) replaced at no charge. The staff at BVF took such care of me I have no complaints at all. I have owned a Ford for 11 years now, Escape, 7 years and now my Edge for 4 and I am extremely satisfied. Thank you again Pete K., you are "The Man".

Very glad to help. Unfortunately, I was denied, and wound up spending something like $1400 or $1500 out of pocket to do mine myself.

Although you are the only person to date to reply to this thread, I have received 11 inquiries on my vrodpete@msn.com email for a copy of the TSB.

10 have replied back that the document saved them a boatload of money.

Not sure if the 11th guy was denied, or just did not reply back with info.

Once shafted by my dealer, my main focus was to try to keep this "selective warranty situation" from happening to others.

The only upside for me is that the pcm reflash (needed to make the brand new PCM work) did correct alot of the poor transmission shift qualities that were annoying since new.

Double Post.

Good Evening Everybody,

Before I go into detail of the alternator failure I just want to give a prequel to the story. We are in the process of purchasing our 2009 Edge Ltd. AWD, but it had alot of issues so we decided to get it fixed before the deal is finalized. My dad knows someone that owns a battle creek ford dealership on the other side of Michigan. On Thursday we exchanged for one of their dealership cars, which happened to be a 2008 Ltd. FWD, literally identical to our car. The car had 40000ish miles and was an alright car. So yesterday, Friday THE 13TH, im driving with a friend and notice the battery light goes on. I look in the owners manual and saw the recharging system was messed up. But I decided it would be okay. I drive maybe 80 yards and my friends and I all hear this very loud noise from alternator. Pop the hood and it sounds terrible right by the alternator. Almost like a squeak, smelled smoky too. We decide to drive to a guy named Marcus' house because he knows alot about cars. We show up and he agrees the alternator is fried, and asked if I have been flooring it alot. I saw a little, but no not really cause we only had the car for 2 days. My friends and I leave and are pulling out of marcus neighborhood. We are pulling out onto basically a stretch of road that converts into highway, so I give it 3/4 throttle. All the electronics die, lights off, but car is running. We go back to marcus' and it dies there. It died there last night and got towed out this morning, we couldnt even recharge the battery to roll up a window. Anybody know what could be happening? Its just a huge bummer.

If it looks like a duck, quacks like a duck, and swims like a duck, it's a duck.

You have a bad alternator. Replace it, and the belt, and enjoy the ride.

Well it seems my 2007 Ford edge SEL now needs the PTU replaced at a cost of $1600.00 and a catalytic convertor and 02 sensor as well ($1300.00)..Plus transmission fluid change at $189.00. All this comes after the ECM was replaced. When the ECM was replaced it was covered ( barely at 78,000 miles ) under the 80,000 mile warrenty. Not so lucky this time as the car has over 80,000. Total price comes to $3500.00 this is includes diagnosis plus oiul change..Not sure what I will do now. The srevice rep. suggested I talk to a salesman and trade the edge in. This is ridiculous. I bought the car preowned with 24,000 miles on it and currently still owe $8000.00. Car has been at dealer for 2 weeks now while I try and decide what to do. Sales department is lacking in customer service, does not seem interested in working with us on this. I think I am going to have the PTU fixed and see if I can replace the convertor and 02 myself and save some money. Any suggestions on what to do? This is the first car I have ever had this many problems with. I own a pontiac with 170,00 miles that has had no major problems and a chevy with 180,000 miles still running strong with no major problems. Seems Ford has dropped the ball with the Edge.

I know what I would do.

I would locate a late model salvage yard that has guaranteed used parts, and have them installed by somone I trust, outside of the dealership.

Immediately upon complation, the for sale sign would go on the window.

Having been through the ecm thing, I feel your frustration. In my case though, dealer told me to take a hike with 44,000 miles, so I ate the total replacement cost.