Rick Baye

Here is a rough diagram...I am not the best with the pen, haha. Let me know if it makes sense. Thanks!

Just your basic 4 Pin Relays, I got mine at the local auto parts store for around $6/piece. Power, Ground, Switch and Output. The Power and Ground I wired right into my power and ground connections from my HID kit to make things easier and only have one connection to the battery and protect the signal relays with the existing fuse as well. Power connects to # 30 and ground to #85. Next you will have to cut the turn signal flashing wire to split it, but be sure to make the cut 2-3 inches behind the bulb connector so you have some wire to play with on both sides. The vehicle side of the turn signal wire needs to be connected to #86, and the bulb side gets connected to #87. This will complete the relay wiring. Repeat on the other bulb. Now, for the resistors, you must wire them on the vehicle side (before the power runs through the relay) to prevent hyperflashing. Connect one wire from the resistor to the turn signal wire on the vehicle side, and the other spliced into the ground wire, which will be the black/green wire. The reason a resistor is needed is because incandescent bulbs have resistance to them as the power runs through it, LED bulbs do not. The vehicle flashers depend on this resistance to slow down their function, and when the resistance is no longer there, they flash faster. The resistor will basically trick the flasher module into thinking there is still an incandescent bulb there and slow it down. I will try to write this out soon on a diagram, but this could get you started.

While I absolutely love the Daytime Bright Lites version with Phillips DRL's, this mod is expensive no matter if you do it yourself or get the guys over at DTBL to do it for you. I have converted all front facing lights over to 6000K (55W HIDs and Type 2 VLED Switchbacks) and now am frustrated with the final lights that just don't match, the verticals. Just had a little baby girl, so my wife would kill me if I were to spend $200+ on those bad boys, so looking to do a patch job until she stops monitoring the accounts so close, lol. Has anyone opened this housing up to see if you can simply replace the single fire LED with a 6000K high output (CREE anyone?) to get the color match?

LED resistors must be wired between the positive and ground of the FLASHING signal wire and ground. In the picture above, this would be the Blue/Green (+) and Black/Green (Ground). In Ford vehicles, Black/Green is always ground, and on the parking light fixtures up front, the opposing OUTSIDE wire will be the blinker power wire, and the middle is the parking light power wire. Hope that helps.

Hey guys, first time posting here but this topic caught my eye as I just installed Type 2 Switchbacks in my 2011 Sport. This install is more complex for a couple reasons. The main reason being that when the parking lamps are illuminated, the Edge provides 12 volts to the parking lights and 8 volts to the blinker leads. In the Type 2, which have a timed relay to turn off the whites while in blinking mode, this 8 volts "confuses" them so it will not allow the whites to stay on, but will allow yellow to blink without issue on a plug and play install. To remedy this, a relay must be installed on each turn signal to interrupt this 8 volts. I also did need to install 6 ohm 50 watt resistors to all bulbs to prevent hyperflashing as I have converted all four turn signals to LED bulbs. With the relays and resistors in, they work perfectly, but both would be needed to get it to work correctly. If anyone is interested in this install, I could make a video or something to explain how to do this exactly. Hope this helps though for the guys on here that want the Type 2's and have been having issues. I love mine (I took them off my previous vehicle and had to do some trial and error when I ran into the issues on the Edge to find all this out) and would never run the Type 1's because I don't like the look and they do not create a clear turn signal.