TheWizard

It looks to be the momentary switch used in aftermarket alarms to program system options and control things like valet mode. You would have to find the alarm "brain" box to get the alarm make and model so you could find an owner's manual.

Well said Waldo! (You beat me to it)

The "you won't survive anyway" argument is merely misguided self justification much like the "helmets cause neck injuries" argument used by some bikers. When you actually look at the facts, you find both are just BS excuses.

I won't even ask why anyone in this day and age would drive a vehicle without wearing the seat belt. Seat belts save lives just as motorcycle helmets do but I see dumb riders without helmets every day so obviously their lives aren't important to them.

In any case, don't buy one of those electronic LED flashers online because they won't work with any recent model Ford... you won't even find a place to plug them in. Ford and most other manufacturers have gone to computer controlled turn signals - even cars that don't have the newer electronic turn signal switch (e.g. Ford Escape) have replaced traditional flashers with computerized control.

I'm not sure if this is an issue I had before installing the DRL2's because I never used my headlights prior to the installation but now I'm having and issue with one of my headlights "shutter" won't open and allow light through. Anyone else experience this? I did disconnect the DRL2's and the headlight is still performing this way.

Do you mean that you don't get high beam on one side? The shutter in the headlight projector lens is what switches the beam pattern from low beam to high beam (it moves out of the way when you switch to high beam).

The high beam power wire (when power is applied, the shutter moves out of the way) is gray/brown on the left side and purple/orange on the right side. Check that you didn't damage those wires during EDGE 2 installation. Those wires are controlled by solid state circuitry in the Body Control Module (BCM) so if the wires are not damaged, you could be looking at replacing the BCM.

Any luck on coming to a solution on getting the following items enabled on a Edge with DRLs in the Turn Signal lights? The challenges listed:

 

1. Retain courtesy light function when unlocking car.

2. 100% DRL with lights on auto, Turn DRLs on

3. 70% when headlights on

4. Amber LEDs light with turn signal only.

 

I think i just need clarification what the black and white cable control. For now I've installed them just to the factory harness and waterproofed and electrically isolated the black and white leads, while not installing the relay just yet. The brightness in just this config is nice, but I would like to have the turn signals working too

What you're asking is not possible unless you connect the black wire to the rear turn signals as has been suggested. The black wire causes the amber LEDs to turn on (and the white ones to turn off) whenever it has power applied. If you connect the black wire to the front lamps with DRLs enabled, you will get only amber LEDs on in the EDGE 2 lights whenever the DRLs are on (as well as flashing with the turn signals). The only time you would see the white LEDs would be with the headlights on (i.e. DRLs are off) or when the ignition is off (again, because the DRLs are off).

As posted before, when power is applied to the white wire, the white LEDs turn on at 70% brightness. When power is applied to the black wire, the amber LEDs turn on and the white LEDs turn off regardless of whether the white wire (or the red wire in the main harness) is powered or not.

We got it back from the dealer and the noise is gone. I don't know if it was really the power steering or if they adjusted/fixed something else while they were working on it. There is no mention of any other work on the work orders. So I guess fourth time is the charm.

That's a great observation! I will have them consider that if (when) the problem still exists after they replace all those parts today. Thanks!

 

It's not a TSB, it's a SSM. The full text is:

 

SOME 2011-2013 EDGE/MKX VEHICLES MAY EXHIBIT A HIGH-PITCHED SQUEAL NOISE FROM THE POWER STEERING PUMP WHEN STEERING WHEEL IS FULLY TURNED TO EITHER LEFT OR RIGHT STEERING STOP POSITION. REPLACE POWER STEERING PUMP WITH LATEST LEVEL SERVICE PART. REFER TO WORKSHOP MANUAL, SECTION 211-02. USE EXISTING LABOR TIME OPERATION NUMBER. SUSPECT SERVICE PARTS HAVE BEEN REMOVED FROM SERVICE DEPOT STOCK.

 

Thank you! However, that description doesn't match the symptoms we're experiencing. I hope they're not chasing the wrong problem. Ours has a groaning noise (relatively low pitch) that occurs when turning left at speeds above about 10-15 mph (e.g. highway on-ramp or a wide intersection). We aren't turning the wheel more than a quarter turn... nowhere near the steering lock.

I can see where there might be an issue with the power steering pump relief valve that would cause noise but we're not turning the wheel far enough to involve the relief valve.

Could be the wheel bearing(s). It's too early, I know, but the first-gens had a TSB out for that.

The noise was present at delivery with 199 miles on it. I suppose it could be bearings or some suspension component but that begs the question "why only during left turns?"

Our '13 Limited is just four months old, has less than 3,000 miles on it and is in the shop for its fifth replacement of power steering components. This time they are replacing the entire system - pump, reservoir, rack and hoses. The pump and rack have been replaced twice each already, the reservoir once and this is the first time for hoses.

It started out as a loud groaning noise when turning left. The dealer suspected the power steering pump and replaced it under warranty. When the noise continued, they discovered a technical service bulletin advising of a contamination problem and updating the pump with replacement stock (apparently all the old pumps were removed from stock and replaced - I don't know if it was a redesign or a manufacturing problem). When that still didn't solve the problem, they were advised by Ford to replace the steering rack. On the fourth try, Ford advised them to replace the rack again and the reservoir because of suspected contamination in the system. Now they've had a Ford engineer look at it and they're going to replace everything one more time.

Does anyone know where I can get more information on this TSB? It started out as a noise but now I'm thinking it may be something more serious and I don't want to risk driving a vehicle with potential steering problems.

Why is every word capitalized?

 

Have you checked the ballasts, a short in one can effect both. Are you using a wire harness?

I think the forum software converts text all in CAPS into Proper Case so it doesn't look like shouting (although the proper case is almost as annoying).

I'm confused... GAP insurance and extended warranty are two completely different things. GAP insurance covers the difference between the value of the vehicle if it gets totaled and the outstanding loan amount. Extended warranty is just that - a repair warranty for mechanical problems.

Most warranties don't cover things like water damage (just as home insurance doesn't cover flood damage) but they are really reaching by using that as an excuse in this case. Your problem really isn't any different than if you had a windshield leak (a warrantied repair) that caused water damage to the radio - any damage resulting from an item covered under warranty should also be covered. Unless they're saying that the drain tube blockage was not covered because it was a maintenance item?

One thing I would like to know is why anyone would want the amber lights in the new DRL's on all the time with the white light part of the new DRL's? Now this is just me and my opinion but it does NOT look good at all,I think its just to much when both amber and white lights in the new DRL's are on all the time together,like I said this is just me and my opinion.

I don't think anybody is talking about having both colors on all the time - just one or the other. It is not possible to have both the amber and white LEDs in the new DRLs on at the same time. As soon as you apply power to the black (turn signal) wire, the amber LEDs go on and the white ones go off. When you remove power from the black wire, the amber LEDs go off and the white ones turn back on. That's why the turn signals flash alternately amber and white.

Very true. You'd have to have the transitions material outside the headlamp assembly with some sort of UV blocking in the lamp's face so that the transitions material would only be affected by outside UV.

Wouldn't it be easier to just drive over to the dealer with a bunch of golf clubs and try it? I'm sure any reasonable dealer who wanted to make a sale would be more than happy to accommodate you.

You should never apologize for asking a question... we're all here to help each other out and it's not a dumb question if you don't know the answer. But I do have a whole bunch of dumb blonde jokes I could tell if you want.

In order to have 100% white LEDs when the lights are off, you need an ignition switched power source going to the lower socket on the Edge 2 lamp (the socket where the factory harness plugs in). You could modify the factory harness so that the yellow/blue wire that is powered by the parking/running lights is instead powered by an ignition switched source. Then you could connect the white wire to a source powered by the parking/running lights to get the Edge 2 lights to dim when other lights are on and retain the "courtesy" functions.

That would accomplish what you're looking for... but why do it? You end up modifying factory wiring when you have a perfectly functional replacement harness supplied with the Edge 2 lights that does the same thing. I have no qualms about modifying factory configurations but I never do it if there is a way to accomplish the same thing without modifications.

Yes, you can use the stock harness but if you do, you get lights that function basically the same as the factory lights except much brighter. They won't work as DRLs unless you provide ignition switched power to turn them on without the other lights (headlights and/or parking/running lights).

Alternatively, you could use the factory harness and also connect the white wire to an ignition switched source. This would give you all the factory functions plus DRLs but only at 70% brightness.

Thanks for the info on your temperature tests. The concern I have about having the amber LEDs constantly on as DRLs, is not damaging the LEDs themselves or the housing, but damaging the electronic compenents of the inernal controller. The additional heat from running the amber LEDs continuously may not be enough to melt the plastic components, but could damage the DRLs controller circuits. Again, I strongly recommend not configuring your EDGE-2s in a way that allows the amber LEDs to run continuously.

 

Just want to confirm that it is perfectly safe to connect and power my EDGE-2s using the existing OEM plug. You will loose the automatic DRL function, but if turning the EDGE-2s on and off manually each time does not bother you, then you are in good shape.

 

 

Concerning Edges with the amber parking light DRLs, I am working on a wiring method that will allow the EDGE-2 turn signal to function properly. Hope to wrap that up very soon. My Canadian friends here are on the forum are helping me find this work around.

Right now, I am going to stick to my earlier statement and policy, that the EDGE-2s should not be wired in any other way (other than the use of the OEM plug) then what is stated in the installation instructions. (white trigger wire to headlights, black trigger wire to turn signals). I am looking into the alternative wiring methods that have been brought up here, but until we determine whether these methods are OK or not, I cannot recommend them. If we OK these wiring changes, you can easily reconfigure the wiring at that time.

As I have previously stated, I do not recommend installing these lights (or any kind of accessory for that matter) in any way other than the manufacturer's recommendation. My description of the various wires and their function was merely for information to answer questions from other members. My temperature testing was related to my intended use of the amber LEDs for strobes running for long periods of time and had been related to Dan prior to being posted here.

However, I am starting to find it troublesome that the members of this forum and I have been making discoveries about how these things work that appear to surprise the manufacturer. One would expect that a product like this would undergo extensive testing. Things like the fact that the lights can be powered by the loose white and black wires without requiring the ignition switched red wire should have been known before the first one shipped. It took me less than ten minutes to discover that on the set I received. The case temperature of 104 degrees implies that the internal temperature is well below the 130 degree maximum sustained temperature usually specified for integrated circuits - especially since I've been told that the amber LEDs are mounted to a heat sink.

My other concern is the fact that important opportunities were missed in the design. For example, merely swapping the position on the internal circuit board where the white and red wires are attached would have made most of the replacement harness unnecessary - the lamps could have been plugged into the factory harness. I won't go into a detailed description here as I have already done so by email with Dan.

I think these lights are an excellent "beta" of a product that could be outstanding with some more work.

Russ is correct... the configuration in the installation instructions result in the loss of the "courtesy" lock/unlock function.

There are four wires connecting to the new DRL lamps. The replacement harness has red and black wires (for power and ground respectively) and there are two additional wires (white and black) through a rubber grommet above the harness plug.

The black wire in the harness must be connected to ground in order for any of the light functions to work.

Applying power to the white wire will light the white LEDs at 70% regardless of other connections (except the ground previously mentioned). This is why changing the installation so that the white wire connects to the original vertical light connector retains the courtesy lock/unlock function.

Applying power to the loose black wire (the one from the rubber grommet) lights the amber LEDs at full power and turns off the white LEDs if they were on regardless of other connections. Given constant power, the amber LEDs will stay on and the white LEDs will stay off. With the on/off flashing power from the turn signal circuit, the amber LEDs will flash together with the other turn signals. If the white LEDs were on, they will flash alternately with the amber LEDs.

Applying power to the red wire lights the white LEDs - at full power if nothing else is powered or at 70% if the white wire also has power.

To make the lamps work as DRLs, the module must be connected to ignition controlled power either with the red wire (100%) or the white wire (70%).

No, I won't be able to work on it this weekend. It is at the dealer once again to have yet another steering rack installed under warranty. We probably won't get it back until at least Wednesday.

No, I agree with you - headlights and tail lights should not be tinted. But my primary objection is to the reduction in light caused by the tint so spitballing about an automated tint/clear solution is kinda fun.

Depends on what you mean by "act as DRLs". Wired as the instructions show, the lights will be on whenever the ignition is on. They will dim to 70% brightness when the headlights are on but they will stay on. They will alternately flash amber and white with the turn signals and then return to solid white when the signals are off.

If they aren't dimming with the headlights on then the white wire is not properly connected... chances are the ScotchLock crimp-on connector didn't make good contact.

If they aren't flashing amber with the turn signals then the loose black wire is not connected properly... probably for the same reason.

Well, this escalated above my pay grade. I will simply use Dan's instructions, with the change of the white wire to the parking lamps. This should offer the following correct?:

 

1. Courtesy Lights

2. 100% full brightness with headlights off

3. 70% brightness with parking lamps or headlights on.

 

Am I missing anything?

 

And just a dumb question. When are just the parking lights on, if my lights are always set to "Auto"?

Yes, that's what you'll get.

And the question isn't dumb but the answer is "never". The only way to have parking/running lights without headlights is to select P on the headlight switch (not including the flashes that the car does automatically when unlocking, etc.)

I certainly don't want to step on anyone's toes and I certainly would never advise doing something against a manufacturer's directions... but I did some extensive bench testing (with Dan's approval) last weekend. That included running the amber lights as strobes for 2.5 hours and then as DRLs for an additional 4 hours. The ambient temperature was 86.4 and the highest temperature recorded on the back of the light module was 104.1 - warm but not even uncomfortable to the touch. The front was even lower, never exceeding 94.8 degrees. So I don't personally think there is any danger to the circuits from running them full time but I will defer to the manufacturer (in other words, don't hook them up that way and ever expect warranty replacements).