TheWizard

Yes, the CAN-Bus bulbs eliminate the need for separate resistors but they aren't as bright as some of the other LED bulbs available. I just replaced the front turn signal bulbs this weekend with the 45-LED tower 3157 bulbs from Superbrightleds. I had the same ones in my Mustang and was quite pleased but the different shape of the Edge reflector makes them quite disappointing. In fact, they aren't as bright as the original incandescent bulbs and they wash out in bright sunlight.

I have ordered the 27-watt Eagle Eye SMT tower bulbs from autolumination.com and should have them by the weekend. A 27-watt LED bulb should be blinding bright in most housings but we'll see what they look like in the Edge. I have the same design 14-watt bulbs in my Mustang now as DRL and turn signals and you can see them from a mile away. Beware of V-LED bulbs as they are very heat sensitive (e.g. they cannot be used for daytime running lights - I tried and they all failed within a couple of months). I've never had a problem with either the superbrightled or autolumination bulbs.

I haven't tried my 3156 bulbs in the rear yet. They're also the 45-LED tower bulbs but the rear reflector is a different design so they may work better than the front.

Thanks, I'll have a look there.

The "stock" Edge Limited wheels are 18" chrome with 10 equal-sized spokes. The optional wheels are 20" chrome that Ford calls 5-spoke but each spoke has a split near the rim that makes them look like a 10-spoke. The spokes are not as evenly spaced as the 18" wheels and have a wider, flattened area near the rim.

The stock 18" and 20" wheel/tire combinations are essentially the same - they have nearly identical total diameter and revolutions per mile (only a 0.24% difference) so unless one wheel is significantly heavier than the other, there should be no significant difference in mileage.

The 22" wheel/tire combinations are somewhat larger (2.6% larger and no doubt heavier as well) so I would expect somewhere around 5% reduction in mileage... from 30 mpg down to about 28.5 mpg.

Sorry, no... that applies to vehicles that have the front and rear turn signals on the same circuit for each side (i.e. the good old fashioned mechanical turn signal switch). The Edge has separate computerized circuits for each bulb so you will need four 6-ohm resistors - one for each corner.

You will probably need 6-ohm resistors but you can try the 3-ohm ones and see if they work. You want to connect the resistors from the turn signal power wire to ground for each side. On the front left that would be the blue/green power wire to the black/green ground wire. On the front right it would be yellow/purple power to black/gray ground.

You may find you also need to do the same thing at the back. If so, you want the gray/orange power to the black/gray ground on the left and the green/orange power to black/green ground on the right.

The "hyper flash" is designed as an indicator that you have one or more bulbs burned out. LED bulbs cause that condition because they have essentially no resistance compared to the filament of an ordinary incandescent bulb. The hazard signal circuit does not have a hyper flash mode - it will flash at the same speed regardless of how many bulbs are burned out. Adding resistors makes the turn signal circuit "see" the expected resistance so that it doesn't indicate burned out bulbs. Typical 3156 and 3157 bulbs have about 6-ohms resistance in their filament so your 3-ohm resistors may still cause hyper flashing even if properly installed.

I am installing strobe lights in my 2013 Edge and I'm having difficulty finding an accessible location to pass a couple of wires through the firewall into the passenger compartment. The strobe flasher module is installed under the hood and I need to get wiring to two switches (on/off and flash pattern) being mounted in the dash.

Anybody know of an existing grommet someplace that I can pass a couple of wires through?

Can't you leave the ignition in the Accessory position to prevent it shutting off?

Maybe that's my problem... I bought it from a Southern Ford dealer, maybe I need to use a southern accent! :D

<rant>

I think SYNC stands for "Sorry, You're Not Connected" or maybe something else that means "planned disobedience". I half expect to say "increase fan speed" and have it respond "shutting off engine".

At least in my Mustang I can mostly ignore it. There are real, physical, moving buttons and knobs for the climate and audio system including radio presets. My wife's Edge with MyFord Touch has almost completely done away with knobs and switches so you have to make SYNC voice commands work unless you want to be looking away from the road at the touch screen or dash menu. For example, instead of changing fan speed with a knob I could easily reach by touch, I have to look at the center stack to find the touch controls. Great safety item! Who's brilliant idea was that?

I don't just blame Ford... all the manufacturers seem to be doing away with common sense controls in favor of touch screens and menus. It seems the object is not to make the vehicle better but to make it more marketable to the video game generation. That would be the same generation who won't even know what "clockwise" means because they've never used an analog clock.

</rant>

Anybody else feel the same?

You still have drive-ins? Man, I miss those.

They figured $400 for parts and labor that they were going to add onto the sales agreement. I found the kit online for $189 so I figure I can save a couple hundred dollars installing them myself. Thanks for the information!

Hey Gimp, can you tell us more about installing the rails? I am taking delivery of my Edge this weekend (dealer trade) and it has everything I want except the roof rails. I know I can buy the rails from the parts department as an accessory kit but I was told it would be $400 for the dealer to install them. I have a fairly complete set of tools and I know how to use them so is installation something an average shade-tree mechanic can do?

Thank you... that certainly explains the use of that mileage. I figure that by the time I travelled that far, any accident would likely have been cleared up... but a construction zone would probably still be there. :D

1. I have heard that there is a limitation in the bluetooth protocol that won't transfer pauses. So it can work fine from your handset but not through Sync. On the other hand, I've also heard of people getting it to work so I suspect it may be a software version problem. The common characters used to insert a pause in a phone number are ',' 'P' or '*'. Try each of them and see if you can get one to work (the comma is a semi-universal 2-second pause from way back in the days of 300 baud modems).

3. If you have a current subscription to Sirius Travel Link (or the free trial period), you will get traffic alerts but only when you actually have a programmed route running in the navigation. I too got used to the Garmin system (imbedded in a Kenwood head unit) giving traffic alerts for the current road without requiring a route programmed... I didn't need routing to get to and from work but it would alert me to accidents anyway. One thing that was a bit annoying was the way it would warn me as I passed an accident that there was an "accident in 24,901 miles". I guess that's the circumference of the Earth?

This is not true, or at least only partially true. The 3.5L V6 did not have that capability when it was released in 2007, but it does now. The changeover varies by model though, so I'm not sure which years of the Edge have it and which do not. My guess would be that it came in with the TiVCT version in the 2011.

That could very well be the case... I haven't been following the 3.5L much lately but it certainly seems reasonable that the '11+ model would have that kind of engine mapping.

Just a couple of clarifications...

- octane rating has nothing to do with how much energy (BTUs) is available, all grades of pure gasoline have exactly the same energy content. Likewise, all grades of E10 have exactly the same energy content although E10 has measurably less energy than pure gas (about 3.5%). You will get both more power and better mileage using pure gas than any ethanol mix.

- the only difference between grades of gas with different octane ratings is the resistance to pre-ignition and detonation (engine knock). In unbranded gas (Hess, RaceTrac, Circle K, etc.), there is no other difference and there is absolutely no reason to buy a higher octane grade than your engine is designed for. Branded gas (Shell, Exxon, BP, etc.) often has more additives in their "premium" grade than in their other gas. It will produce no more power or mileage (unless your engine is designed for it) but it might keep the fuel system a little cleaner.

- higher octane by itself will not produce more power. However, higher octane is more resistant to engine knock so using it allows some engine designs to increase their ignition timing advance thus producing more power. All modern engines have knock sensors that allow them to adjust timing based on measured engine knock. Most are designed only to retard the timing to protect the engine if a lower than expected octane fuel is used. Some, like a few Ford engines, are designed to increase the ignition timing to take advantage of higher octane fuel. The EcoBoost engine has this adaptive timing. The 3.5L V6 does not. Whether the 3.7L has it is debatable - Ford does not say it does but dyno tests on Mustangs with that engine show a few horsepower gain using 93 octane compared with using 87 octane. Even so, the difference is not enough to justify the extra cost - 30 cents per gallon (about 8 percent) higher cost to get about 2.2% more horsepower... not enough to even feel on the seat-of-the-pants dyno.

It's been my experience that many Ford products have a tendency to underestimate the mileage in the dash display. For example, my 11 Mustang consistently gets 1.5 mpg better mileage manually calculated than is shown in the dash display. My friend with a new Fusion has experienced a similar discrepancy with his mileage display.