TheWizard

Wizard IF you were to wire them to Fords Factory activated DRL's could that be done without the use of the ignition relay the new Edge 2 comes with. In my case the turn signal bulbs

Unfortunately, you can't really do that unless you want the white LEDs to do exactly the same things as your current DRL/turn signal/running lights. That includes not only the DRL function but also flashing when you use your turn signals.

If that is what you want, you would modify the included harness to eliminate the relay (and everything above it such as the fuse tap) and then splice the harness red wire that originally went from the relay to the lamp into the DRL/turn signal power wire and then splice the harness black wire into the turn signal ground wire. You would want to connect the loose white wire to your running lights power so that the white LEDs would be on at 70% with the running lights/headlights. Otherwise, they would turn off completely when the factory DRLs were not on (except for flashing with the turn signals). To me, this is not a good option because it creates upper amber turn signals with lower white turn signals.

On the other hand, you could use the new built-in amber LEDs instead of the white ones for DRLs. If you connect the loose black wire (not the one in the harness) to the factory DRL/turn signal wire, the white wire to the headlight power wire, and plug in the factory harness instead of the supplied harness you will get the following combinations:

- with running lights (including headlights) off... the new Edge lights will be amber DRLs and turn signals matching the function of the factory ones.

- with only running lights on... the new Edge lights will be white 100% brightness and will flash alternating white/amber for the turn signals.

- with headlights on... the new Edge lights will be white 70% brightness and flash alternating white/amber for the turn signals.

Not to answer my own question but that may not dim them to the desired 70% with headlights on

Actually, that's not the problem. The new Edge lights will dim whenever power is applied to the white wire so you could connect the white wire to the headlight power so that they would run at 70% when the headlights are on.

The factory parking/running lights (tail lights, side marker lights, etc.) are always on when the headlights are on so I will refer only to the running lights in this explanation unless I need to reference the headlights specifically. It does not matter whether the lights go on because you manually turned the switch or because you have the switch set to "auto" and it gets dark outside - the thing that matters is whether the lights are on, not what caused them to go on.

If you plug the factory harness into the new Edge DRL lights without connecting the extra white or black wires, you will have no lights when the running lights are off. You will have white LEDs at full brightness when the running lights are on.

If you plug the factory harness into the new Edge DRL lights and also splice the white wire into the same harness (connect it to the yellow/blue power wire), you will still have no lights when the running lights are off. You will have white LEDs at 70% brightness when the running lights are on.

If you plug the factory harness into the new Edge DRL lights and also splice the white wire into the headlight harness (connect it to the brown/blue power wire on the left and the blue/green power wire on the right), you will still have no lights when the running lights are off. You will have white LEDs at full brightness when just the running lights are on and white LEDs at 70% brightness when the headlights are on.

The ONLY way to make the lamps function as DRLs (be on at full power during the day when no other lights are on) is to connect ignition controlled power to the lamps using the harness provided with them.

Good point! Maybe they could be designed to be sensitive to only certain wavelengths but sunlight contains most wavelengths so it might not be practical. A less expensive version of the electrically controlled tinting would probably be a better solution.

So even if you just turn on the parking lights the vertical lights will only be 70%?

Actually no, I misspoke about the 70%. If you plug in the factory connector instead of the one that comes with the lights, the vertical lights will be full power whenever the parking lights or headlights are on. In essence, the parking light power feed in the factory harness substitutes for the ignition switched power in the replacement harness.

If that is too bright, you could splice the white wire into the factory connector as well to limit the LEDs to only 70% output. Or you could splice the white wire into the headlight power wire so that the vertical lights would be full power with parking lights on but 70% with headlights on.

After reading all of this I have a question kc300 if you don't want to use them as drls and you just want them to function as the old lights did do you have to use the harness still?

I did some testing and found that you can indeed just plug in the factory harness and the lights will work just like the factory ones except brighter (at 70% of their full DRL brightness).

Well, the great thing about advancing technology is that things always end up coming down in price, so maybe someday such a thing will be available.

Another thought... what about something that's the reverse of those auto-tint eyeglasses? The glasses darken with light but if you could make them lighten with light then there would be no need for power connections and they could be made of plastic. Just turning on the headlights would provide enough light to make the lens lighten.

BTW, I want royalties if anyone actually makes these things.

I've often wondered why nobody has come up with some kind of electronic tint for headlights (or tail lights). Something like that material that is normally clear but will change to smoke or opaque black when a current is applied. You could have it cover the headlights, apply power when the ignition is on to black out the lights and then turn off the power when the headlights go on to make the cover clear again. Even better would be a material that is normally dark and goes clear when power is applied - that way they would be dark even with the car off and only go clear when the headlights are on. Best of both worlds - blackout look during the day with no loss of lighting at night.

I would be amazed if there is a Ford programming option to turn on the bumper lights as DRLs since the factory lights are much too dim to meet legal requirements where DRLs are required. The headlight and turn signal options make sense because the lights are much brighter.

When you burn an audio CD, you have the option of including CD-text on the disc - that's what gives you artist and title information. Most major distributors don't do that on their retail discs so that information has to come from someplace else or you only see track numbers. Many CD ripping programs do online lookups of track metadata to create the file tags when saving to MP3 files. The other option is having a player that does those lookups from a music database. My Mustang has a Gracenote database installed with the navigation system so it will generally show title and artist information for CDs that were in the database when I bought the car (I haven't paid Ford's exorbitant price for updates). I don't know if the Edge includes a similar database.

To be honest, I haven't installed it yet. I had the front end off last weekend to install a remote radar detector, front camera, and strobe lights. I'm going to try to install the inside stuff (including the LockPick) this weekend if I can.

I fold down the seats to fit mine in. I can fit them in without folding them down but don't want to scratch the shit out of the rear panels. Is also tight trying to fit in a pull cart but can be done. I don't advise it.

It's even more difficult to get an electric cart in. I don't advise it.

I'm confused... what is the purpose of the relay? The LEDs can't possibly draw much current so couldn't they be powered directly off the ignition switched circuit with the fuse tap? Then the OEM connector could be used to maintain the original courtesy function and as a trigger to switch the LEDs to 70% brightness? That would have eliminated the relay, the red and black power wires, and the white headlight trigger wire.

Typically anything on the drivers side is the Left side. I guess because you see them standing in front of the car it is marked the opposite. If you were to tell a mechanic of an issue with your wheel on the drivers side of the car (or truck) it would be the vehicles LEFT side. Too many years in the trucking business so don't confuse me now

Yes, left and right are always determined from the driver's position so that there is no question of which way the viewer is facing.

That's weird... Mine are marked correctly. LH for passenger's side and RH for driver's side.

Has New Jersey been returned to the British again (so that you drive from the right hand side of the vehicle)?

Yep, except that like many Microsoft products, Ford StYNC is a euphemism for "planned disobedience".

Autolumination.com sells both types. Look for the "CAN-BUS" version on their website to avoid the hyper-flash issue. Personally I prefer using external resistors because you can put them on the turn signal side of the circuit and still have reduced current draw advantage of LEDs for the parking lights.

The address entry screen attempts to speed input by limiting the available keys to those that match what's in its database. Sometimes you have to work down from state and city first then street name then number because it will only let you enter certain values. For example, if there are no house numbers on a street that start with anything other than a 1, the 1 will be the only key available (e.g. all the houses on my street are in the 10,000 range). It can be helpful because as soon as I enter JAC, it automatically fills in JACKSONVILLE and then B becomes the only key available in case I want Jacksonville Beach as the city.

I know it should assume that the state and city would be where you are at the moment but it doesn't always seem to do that and you can only correct it by manually selecting the state and city.

Sorry guys - I've fixed the link.

Switchbacks have amber LEDs on the "bright" (turn signal) circuit and white LEDs on the "dim" (parking light) circuit. In your case, the DRLs and the turn signals will be amber. At night, the lamps will be white but the turn signals will continue to flash amber. It's up to you whether you get the AW type which will alternate white and amber when flashing at night or the AO type which will flash amber and off at night (both types will flash amber/off during the day). The page I linked has an animation of the two different bulb types to give you a better idea how they look.

The difficulty finding "type 1" or "type 2" bulbs may come from the fact that only V-LEDs uses those designations. Check out http://www.autolumination.com/switchback.html . They designate theirs as AW (amber-white) or AO (amber-off) depending on how the turn signals flash and they have both types in stock.

Too bad repeating yourself isn't enough to make you right. Check out the application guides on any of the online parts sites (such as partscheap.com or even Ford's own site accessories.ford.com... both say kit DA8Z-19G364-A fits "Edge - Without Push Button Start WIth Power Liftgate").

Or just check the PDF file linked in the earlier post. Line 10 shows 2013 Edge without push button start and without power liftgate requires the complete kit with antenna and cabling. Line 11 shows 2013 Edge without push button start with power lifgtgate requires only the kit with the two 5-button key fobs. Both have the notation that vehicles without an existing hood switch will require a switch.

No, that's not what I said. On a 2013 Edge with power liftgate, you MAY need the hood switch (check and see if you have one from the factory) but other than that, you only need the kit containing the two key fobs (and have the dealer program it on). The antenna is not required for this situation. Only Edge models without the power liftgate must buy the kit that includes the antenna and extra cabling.

It appears that 2013 Edges with power liftgate have everything except the key fobs and programming already installed in the vehicle from the factory. The kit DA8Z-19G364-A consists of nothing but two key fobs.

On the other hand, models without the power liftgate apparently don't have the requisite additional equipment and so require the BC3Z-19G364-A kit which includes the antenna, coax cable and two key fobs.

The hood switch is not included in either kit. Most listings say "remote hood switch required if not already equipped". The switch part number is BT4Z-19G366-A. You can look under your hood to see if you already have one - it's a plunger type switch near the right headlight.

2013 Ford Edge Sel with Appearance Package > Just slightly over 1,300 miles @ 16.7 mpg 95% Short Distant City Driving ..... So far I am remaining positive.

 

I believe the 20" wheels keeps the 'mpg' from climbing faster. Only a guess.

 

And since it has been extremely hot in the LA area the air conditioner has been on more then normal.

Actually, the 20" wheels and tires by themselves have no significant impact on mileage - they are within a couple of millimeters of the same diameter as the 18" wheels/tires. 245/60-18 overall diameter = 751mm, 245/50-20 overall diameter = 754mm.

The difference would be because Ford put different rear end gear ratios with 20" wheels... 3.39:1 for 20" wheels, 3.16:1 for 18" wheels. This means that you are running the engine at higher RPM for the same road speed with the 20" wheels - causing somewhat lower gas mileage (about 7% or about 2mpg on a V6).

Am I going color blind? The photo makes the wire look light blue but the manual says it should be purple with gray. And where did the ground wire go? I suppose it wouldn't be the first time a schematic has been wrong but it seems odd.

No it's a 3.7L V6. I've upgraded the gears for a little more torque but at my age I was looking for more of a cruiser (convertible) than a performance car. I've had everything from a Boss 351 Mustang back in the day to an LS1 Trans Am until a couple of years ago but the current Mustang is the best I've owned and I find 300+ horsepower and 30 mpg to be a great combination!