CET999

I recently pulled my wheels off to clean them and clean and paint the calipers. Got that done. wheels back on torqued to 95 pounds on every-other rotation. I picked up a set of mud flaps for the front. Did the right side - wheel nuts off, wheel off, mud flap on - wheel back on, wheel nuts back on -- no grief. Went to left side -- loosens nuts - jack up car - removed nuts 1 thru 4, nut five was coming looser but then bound up. I needed breaker bar to turn the nut but the nut stopped turning and stud began to turn. I stopped - I now had a problem (no way to get wheel off). Put the other wheel nuts back on (left #5 as is). There was not enough looseness in number 5 to expose the back side of the stud so I could cut it off. Have to take into local shop to get it replaced (today). Will advise what the outcome is.

Well I read all there was to read and found that the batteries inside both FOBs went dead pretty much at the same time. I found out the type of battery, went and purchased 2 new ones. Open up the fob (back side up) replaced the battery (in both). tried one key then the other -- they both worked. I did not have to re-do the programming!!! I read if you change the battery out within 30 seconds of opening the key fob that the programming would not be lost. In the years I have owned cars with remote starter fobs and smart car fobs that is the first time I have had to replace a battery. ?? With regards to change the battery in the car. I found out that it does mess up the remote start programming and it has to be re-set, so I am assuming the same thing would happen to the ignition key fob if the battery change out takes a long time, or the battery goes dead - completely or you disconnect a battery cable for a long period to erase the error codes.

FYI its not the key, its the settings within the cars computer. I think that when you disconnected the battery for that long period, it dumped its settings. Dealership may be your only option. Short of that speak with a radio install shop and get their take.

FYI the system that is doing the actual sensing is the ABS system. That system sense each "wheel" individually and computer part of it detects the difference between the rotation speed of each wheel. It then makes a judgement based its software parameters to engage "traction control".That judgement is based on: if it senses a rotation difference greater than a software specified value/parameter that is based on the argument: that if a wheel rotating faster than the other/s, it is therefore slipping between tire and road surface. Unless the tires are in bad shape, different diameters, different amounts of rubber from one side of the car to other, or brakes are being applied differently front to rear there should be no engagement. Other conditions that can cause unexpected slippage: is contact with sand/sandy road surface by one wheel while going around a corner, in winter on ice strips under one side of the car, ice patch under one tire, oil slick/sheen on the road surface after/during a rain, driving on non-asphalt/concrete road surface, tire air pressure is vastly different between a t least 2 tires. What else can bring on traction control when you do not expect it. Well 3 come to mind: careless/wreck-less/driving too fast for road conditions and ABS wheels sensors are going bad or a bent wheel or wheel no mounted correctly. It only takes one of the 4 to make incorrect detection and the difference could trigger engagement of traction control (bring on the brakes and kick in awd system). Rotation of wheels: If the system kicks in after a tire rotation and has NEVER occurred before-- I would first check: loose wheel nuts, the wear differences of tire comparing fronts to fronts & rears to rears, then air pressure, then wheel mounted correctly, wheels not bent. If car is going back to tire shop and it comes out w/o a further problem - then they have found their mistake and corrected it: tightened wheel nuts, tire pressure, wheel mount. The first thing they check when it gets on the rack is a check for a bent wheel. Wheels can get bent at the tire shop, by incorrectly placing wheel tire mounting machine. And if alloy wheels -- theses wheel type need a centering ring. If the centering ring is missing or damage the wheel will not run true. In rare cases: an incorrectly balanced wheel could be sensed by the ABS sensors. And even rarer is technician banging up against the sensor and damaged/moved it while mounting and dismounting wheels. Under normal circumstances their in re-calibration of the ABS system to affect the TCS. This is done by a Ford technician in the process of repairing a car after a traffic accident that impacted any of the wheel sensors and wiring. The only thing the tire shop concerns itself with is the air pressure monitoring system (PMS) sensors and system reset.

2007 Edge SEL Plus. Keys come with door entry lock, unlock, alarm. Have separate fob for remote start. About mid October when first cold spell came in, the key I was using failed to unlock the door/s. So I simply used the key to manually open the doors. Later I switched over to the 2nd key. The second key work fine with the unlock/lock/alarm --until yesterday. We are in another cold spell (-20+Celcius). The key failed to unlock the doors, so used the key manually. I was xmas shopping, so I was off to another location. I locked the doors from the door panel upon exiting (this is the norm for me). When I returned, I tried the button on the key to unlock the door -- it worked! So I am off to yet another location. I used the door panel button to lock the door upon exit. Upon my return I tried the key button to unlock the door -- it failed. And that is the condition it is in at the moment. So, is there anyone out their that understands what in side the car that is not getting the signal from the key, or failing to carry out the action. My thoughts: Because there is a computer like device processing the signal codes -- could the low ambient temps be causing a problem with transistors or could moisture/ice crystals interfere with the connections or solenoids? I had this problem with my 2004 Sorento -- after -20C the computer controlling the remote start process failed to work or work correctly. That was due to cold temps freezing one of the sensitvie components- which was replaced under warranty- problem went away. One person I verbally spoke with said it could be to a low battery -- I don't think so -- there are no other problems. Update: I replaced the battery in both key fobs, I did this while sitting in the drives seat. Both fobs worked fine afterward. I did not have to go through the key/car learning process.

After reading the submission and photos of December 2011 I chose to change the plugs on my own (instead of the $300 tab from Ford dealer). I had never done this on my Edge before, its 2007 3.5 at the time had reached 100,000 KM. Although I have DIY wrenched on every car & truck I have owned -- so I am familiar with the basics of the subject. From start to finish I wrote my self notes and took photos. In all the task took 2.5hr (that includes stopping to annotate and photograph. I have since converted that annotation and photo set into "How To set" for others. I thank those individuals of this forum for their sharing of their own experiences which led me to mine. EdgeChangeSparkPlugsProcess.pdf

Hi, I might be late in this reply, but I thought I would share this information. 1. Ford recommends tranny fluid and filter change every 48000 mi. 2. Changing the fluid yourself can be done, but there is a side note. 3. Changing the filter yourself (and gasket) will be a challenge of patience and requires good tools and dexterity (filter is in vertical housing on side of tranny with little space to work). 4. Changing the fluid once you notice minor malfunctions in the shifting or in OD will prevent minor becoming major. 5. that side note -- you need to flush ALL the old oil out (takes about 12 liters/us qts to do this) -- drain oil --replace plug - fill tranny - run engine shift between R to D holding at 20 seconds in each - do this for 3 minutes. Repeat this until all the new oil has been added. 6. Make sure you use the correct type of fluid!!!!. 7. Add a tranny conditioning oil at the end of the drain cycle. 8. Make sure the oil on the dip stick DOES NOT got into the overfill position!!! (and is above the add mark) 9. drive is for a day and check level again when hot. Personal Experiences on my 2007 Edge 3.5V6 AWD and with FORD (who like our money to do major repairs). I change engine oil and filter every 5000k and change tranny oil every 50,000k (or sooner if I notice hickups in the shifting) - filter only got changed by FORD a 100000k ($100labor, $35 filter and gasket, 2qts fluid) Ford Dealer did not like me when I requested filter only change. Ford charges $400+ for full change. Spark Plugs are my next venture I am at 101,000K - to maintain great MPG.