BlackEdition

It's actually Wizard's idea so thanks again, Wiz. Mine was to use the one with the decoder, and if that doesn't solve the issue then I could just tap into it with a load resistor. But then Wiz mentioned that it's just better to make my own wire (without the decoder), so I went with it as it seems safer. I'll let you guys know what happens after I receive my packages in about a week or so. I just placed the orders 2 days ago. And If the socket on the extension doesn't fit the housing, then im just gonna have to tap into the factory wire whether I liked it or not.

Is this a good place to mount the heatsink? (on each side) Just wondering how hot does it get? there is a rubber tube right next to it.

I understand what you're saying, and I agree with you..but I made sure about that even before buying the Edge. I got that info from the same dealer, not the authorized shop. It's probably because the same dealer owns that other shop. Honestly, I can't remember if the K&N intake is not voiding my warranty, but im 100% sure when it comes to those HIDs. It's why I paid a ridiculous amount of money for them just to "keep" my car under the dealer's warranty. I could've saved over $300 by getting them somewhere else (such as ebay) and installed them myself. I even think what they installed for me is a cheap piece of low quality hardware, but I had to buy it from them if I don't want to void the warranty. I was actually more interested in different kind of temperature than the one they offer.

Thank you for the info, but you shouldn't worry about that as it is different around here in Saudi Arabia Im still under the dealer warranty if I install those things at the authorized shop, im sure about this otherwise I wouldn't have installed the intake 2-3 months after buying the car. Awesome! It's the same socket but with no decoder. I was kinda interested more in the decoder wire because it may actually solve the issue. Just to be safe, i'll get all of these and try my luck with the decoder: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-LED-Decoder-3157A-Adapter-Anti-Hyper-Blinking-Flashing-Error-Cancel-Canbus-/321392426297?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad47b3d39&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty-3157-3057-3155-3357-3457-3757-4057-Wiring-Harness-Sockets-Pre-Wired-/290942034410?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43bd7f21ea&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/3156-3157-Male-Adapter-Wiring-Harness-For-Headlight-Tail-Lamp-Signal-Retrofit-/380722876309?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58a4da0f95&vxp=mtr And a pair of black resistors: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Black-50W-Load-Resistor-12V-Module-6OHM-Electronic-Unit-LED-Turn-Signal-Fix-/290909032573?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43bb87907d&vxp=mtr Any tips before I hit that purchase button?

I almost gave up on tapping into the factory wire, but then I found a socket with 3 tabs that might actually fit: It has a decoder (which doesn't solve the hyper flashing issue with our Edges, according to one of the previous posts that I read ?), and who knows, maybe it'll actually work without needing the load resistors! Im guessing there is no harm in using this decoder extension with a load resistor tapped into it? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-LED-Decoder-3157A-Adapter-Anti-Hyper-Blinking-Flashing-Error-Cancel-Canbus-/321392426297?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad47b3d39&vxp=mtr Should I go for it?

I installed the HIDs and the K&N air filter at an authorized shop, that way im still under warranty. It's a rule here where you'll void your warranty if you did those modifications at unauthorized shop. It's a K&N air intake, and according to the techies @ K&N, I don't need to clean the filter yet (it's been about 5 months now since I installed it). So a cover is not necessary. http://www.knfilters.com/cleaning-pics.htm

multipost

Hey Wizard, sorry for going back to this over and over, and I know im a pain in the a## but you guys are the only place where I can get help on this...please bear with me as im not a genius when it comes to wires under the hood and modding. I took a couple of picture to where I think you mean, is this where i'll be able to find both wires for left and right turn signals? If yes, then that means you're talking about splicing into the factory wires, which is something im still trying to avoid.

Thanks Dave for sharing your experience. Installing Dan's DRLs seems to fix the issue, but unfortunately it does not fit my needs and there are a couple of things I don't like about it: First of all, im not a fan of those extremely bright LEDs, I prefer the factory's brightness (im aware of the dimming feature when the headlights are on). Second, I don't like the single cree LED style, I prefer the factory LED tube (I love it! it's one of the things I like about the new Edge). I also don't like how the white LEDs go off when I hit a turn signal, I want them to stay on all the time even after activating a turn signal/hazards. Not sure if there's a workaround for this? I can forget about those things I mentioned above and get myself a pair. But after watching the installation video, there seems to be splicing into factory wires, and also the whole installation looks too complicated for me :-( I don't like playing with the factory electrical wirings, tapping, and adding stuff (I had an old bad experience about this). So I think i'll just stick with the dual load resistor and the 3157 wire extensions. You said the extensions on ebay did not fit on your Edge, so im pretty sure my 2013 has the same socket/base. Im gonna do a little research about this and hopefully find something that'll fit.

Thank you Wizard for your continuous replies. I think i'll stick with the included double-sided tape and some zip ties Those plastic zip ties has never disappointed me in any use, I got a couple of them under the hood holding the ballasts for the HIDs. Everything is figured out now, except how to use one load equalizer for both sides without any wire extensions? Can you recommend a high quality dual load equalizer that comes with long wires? I would like to get the one that comes with a plastic housing, Im thinking the front middle of the hood is the best place to mount it, but im not sure whether it can reach both sides? Can you comment on that? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Signal-Dynamics-01008-Dual-Load-Equalizer-/261382401282?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cdb9aed02&vxp=mtr

I just did some test yesterday, installed the factory bulbs for the fronts and there was no hyper flashing whatsoever! does that mean I'll only be needing one Dual Equalizer for the fronts? I haven't purchased anything yet, I was trying to figure out how to wire the second extension to reach that one Dual Equalizer. And what about mounting it? I can't seem to understand how a double sided tape can hold it down and last for months or years under all that heat/rain and some off-roading. Perhaps go with the included double sided tape + a zip tie, yes? I live in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia and the temperature here in the summer can hit up to 50C/122F (a lot hotter under the hood), It's too much. This is why I wasn't comfortable using a load resistor in the first place. Thoughts?

I have been checking my thread from time to time hoping for new solutions/useful discussions. Im still suffering from this hyper-flashing. Any updates with you FarmerDave? I hope TheWizard can look over this and give us his tips (or anyone else with some experience): I finally decided to go with the load resistors..I gave up. I just saw how Posi-Lock works and I like it! I feel more comfortable using this than ScotchLocks. Here's a video explaining it for those who might me interested: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yiimgl-Rdmw There are different locks for it, im interested in the one called Posi-TAP @ 2:53. So im thinking: A combination of 3157 Wire Extension, Dual Load Equalizer and Posi-Taps. (I still don't wanna tap into the factory wire, that's why im getting the extensions). I'll use one Dual Load Equalizer for the fronts and hope that will do the trick. If not, i'll be having a second equalizer as a backup (for the rears). Using Posi-Tap with them of course. Im not sure how it goes, is this right? I took a screenshot of the video above and added some text to it:

Sorry to hear that the decoders didn't work out for you FarmerDave. But thanks for sharing! I couldn't handle buying them and wait weeks for them to arrive and have them solve nothing for me. Do you think buying the extension and using the load resistors on them (just 2 for the fronts) would solve the whole problem? I might go ahead these next couple of days and do a little test, i'll install the default factory bulbs (for one side only, rear or front) and see if that makes any difference, if it does then buying 2 resistors for the fronts would be enough.

This looks interesting, does it actually work on our Edges? have you gave that a try yet? Im sick of hyper-flashing at night when I have my DRL/headlights on. It's not that expensive, I could buy it and see if it works, but it's a hassle for me since I live outside the US and it's going to take some time for the package to arrive here..So I prefer to wait and see if someone has found a solid solution that's guaranteed to work 100%.

Why not go with Ford's genuine parts? you can get it online: http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=2013&m=Ford&mo=Edge#Search http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?n=H3YmOx%2bYRvRT75NQmNvEug%3d%3d&id=267948075&m=2&search=true&year=2013&make=Ford&model=Edge I searched using my 2013 Edge, assuming they all use the same wiper arms (including the old models?).

Should I get these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pc-Canbus-3357-4144-3157-Amber-Daytime-Running-Light-DRL-25W-CREE-High-Power-/171194657480?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27dbff2ac8&vxp=mtr Build-in CANBUS controller, and they seem a bit on the bright side. I read somewhere that CANBUS bulbs are usually not that bright, but they are a solid solution to eliminate hyper-flashing. If that's true, then why were the LEDs I had before hyper-flash? could it be because the front & the rears were different models? (all of them had built-in CANBUS controller). Can I re-install my two old CANBUS bulbs on either the front or the back and do the hyper-flash testing? would that work or do I have to install 4 bulbs?

I just emailed Dan asking him to check this topic. I was searching on eBay but I couldn't find anything higher than 50W, so I assume 50 watts are the maximum out there? I would like to buy what 12Edge sent me, but im not sure if they're the same ones Dan is selling (I already have them installed here).

I think those are the same ones that Dan is selling, check @ 1:13. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Me-6NkEtFhk#t=74 Anyways, i'll check something tomorrow and get back to you guys. Thank you for your inputs.

I contacted Dan before ordering those LEDs, he said 10% of Edge owners might face hyper-flashing with his LEDs. I guess im one of them? Anyways, I don't want to return them since they look better than the ones I had before. Load resistors will be the last solution for me. Like I said before, I don't mind buying new bulbs that are guaranteed to work. Could you please read my last post and reply to that? #3.

This is why I don't want load resistors: 1- They will void all my dealer warranties. 2- They produce too much heat for my comfort. 3- Not sure where to mount them, and don't want to drill anything. That being said, can you please recommend me some high wattage LEDs? BTW, I had CANBUS LEDs installed before, but they hyper-flash all the time, at least Dan's LEDs they only hyper-flash when the lights are on. Those are the ones I had installed before: Lumen® PL3157CA - PlaZma Series Front Turn Signal Replacement LED Bulb (3157, Amber) Just to clarify: I had those installed on the front turn signals, but for the backs I installed these: Lumen® 3157CA - Rear Turn Signal Replacement LED Bulb (3157 / 3757, Amber) Could that be the reason they were hyper-flashing? since those 2 models are different.

Hello everyone, I recently received my new DAYTIMEBrightLites LED "Smoked" Taillights, plus the LED pack for all turn signals. Everything looks incredibly good (Thanks Dan! i'll be sure to email you a quick review with pics later on when I get this fixed). I would really like to solve this hyper-flashing issue without using load resistors. Willing to pay whatever it takes! I just don't wanna use any load resistors but would also love to have the nice look of LEDs with normal operation. The ones I have installed seems to work normally (no hyper-flashing) when all exterior lights are off, but whenever I turn on the headlights they start to hyper-flash. Since I usually have the lights on most of the time, this is no good for me. According to Dan's website, those are 50W LED bulbs, so I thought why not look for higher wattage bulbs? this is where I need your help. If you have any other ways or ideas to eliminate hyper-flashing (without the use of load resistors), please share them with us.

Hey Dan, How long does it usually take to reply to emails? I've been waiting for about 4 days and honestly that feels like a lifetime to me, especially when you want something so bad

Incredible! i'll be grabbing one for myself very soon, just waiting for you to reply to my email

TheWizard I don't know how to thank you, I did what you said and now they both work perfectly on the rear turn signals I will be ordering a full set now. Thanks a bunch!

Hi, I finally received this one today: It looks much better on the front signals, but unfortunately it still doesn't work on the tail lights Tomorrow morning I will try what TheWizard said, bending the contacts on the LED, and hope that'll do the job. The good thing is, they both work perfectly, no hyper flashing! and according to the website, it has built in resistors: CANBUS Compatible Properly equipped with load resistors, Lumen LEDs will not interfere with CAN Bus data systems on modern vehicles so equipped.