wisdomsp

Hmm. I should take mine in and see if they will find a bad booster. I really don't want to through a bunch of parts at this thing...

I'm dealing with this now too. mine seems very intermittent, but I do notice an all around softer peddle feel. 2013 2WD 3.5. I'm leaning towards the Hydraulic Control Unit and a stuck valve. There are some test you can do to check the booster. mine checked out good so far. Check out this guys vid. He explains the issue I think I'm having. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0r46_unyYk8

Thank You Thank You Thank You... I have a 2013 3.5L Edge Limited, with 88k miles and dual climate control. Two days ago the drivers side AC stopped working, and would only blow the hottest air known to mankind. All the while, my wife sits comfortably in the passenger seat and has full temperature control. I live in California and it has been 100+ degrees outside for the past few weeks, so you could imagine my frustration. I popped into a local dealer to see what I was up against. The service tech told me it was one of 9 possible options, and worse case would be 250.00 with parts and labor. Using the diagrams posted by autom8r (above), I was able to remove the driver side actuator, and move the linkage by hand. Walla! I have AC on the drivers side. I still need to order the part but at least I have something to work with. I've seen a few different part numbers so there's some research to be done. I also read that these should be calibrated, or a setting in the ECU that needs to be changed. Can anyone confirm either of these claims? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks again for all the info so far... I'll keep you all posted on the final fix. Happy Trails!

just a shot in the dark here, but if your towing your edge with all four wheels on the ground you will need to put the car in neutral. To do this you will need the key on. Ford has you disconnect the battery so that the computer and instrumentation is not draining the battery during towing.

I myself am not a fan of Black Plastic. I would also like to refinish or replace the lower black plastic. It just isn't cost effective at this point for me to do so. I have had some experience refinishing smaller items though. On my Pontiac I painted the engine cover, the mirrors and the grill to color match the body. The engine cover and the mirrors were textured. I used aggressive sand paper, 300 grit I think, to knock down the texture. Then I went progressively finer. until it was smooth. Finishing it off with 3000-4000 grit. I used primmer that was specific to plastic. I never had an issue, even with the heat in the engine bay. The Edge lowers are much bigger sections, and I probably would not tackle the paint myself. Anyone know how much a body shop would charge, if I removed them from the car, and prepped them myself? seems like that's where most of the time is.

Did you apply the most recent update? Though I have an iPhone, and have never been able to get the Edge to read text messages the update does mention that it fixes issues with reading text messages. It may help you out... Just a thought though. Or, try and restore defaults in settings.

never heard that. I am anxious to hear other responses.

While under my hood checking fluids and what not, I noticed that under the red rubber boot for the positive battery terminal was a severe amount of corrosion and calcium like build up. Anyone have an idea what would cause this?

Awesome Pictures! What camera are you using?

Once again Mr. Wizard has saved my day, and came through with very valuable information. I may change my screen name, because I may not live up to it... LOL! I bought these LEDs from E-bay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/191263581001?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT and as the original poster stated they did not turn on. after reading this post I bent the contacts of the bulb out a little, and wah-lah! They work. I do notice that they are not as bright as the stock bulbs, so I will switch them out for some brighter ones when I get a chance. I am happy to report that even though I needed to install resistors for the front switchbacks to work with out hyper flashing, after installing the rears I still have no hyper flash even with out rear resistors. I did buy enough resistors to install them in the rear, so if anyone needs them, I have a set of 6olm 50 watt resistors up for grabs. Thanks WIZ!

Installed Resistors for the LED turn signals. Fronts are done, gonna tackle the rears tomorrow. I'll keep you posted...

So when I take one of the bulbs out I still get hyper flashing. I checked the connectors and they look ok. After searching most of the day for my meter I was able to determin that the connectors were not compressed enough to make good contact. squeezed them with some pliers and all is well. I'm ready to tackle the rears.. . Thank you again!

I'll try it and get back with my findings... Thank you for your help!

I purchased and installed 50 watt 6olm resistors as talked about above. Even after the install I have hyper flashing. The hyper flash is only present when the parking lights or the headlights are on. If the white side of the switch back is off they work normal. in fact they worked normal prior to installing the resistors, once any other lights are on the hyper flash. Do you guys think I should switch the resistor wire to the other power wire and see if it fixes the problem? I followed Wizard's directions for what wires to use whn making the connections. any help here would be appreciated. THANX!

Thanks for the help guys! It's hard to filter through all the information here. I thought for sure that prior to installing the LEDs I had amber running lights on that came on when the car was put in drive, so I thought that the whites would come on. I found this not to be the case. The whites only come on when I have the parking light switch on, The head lights on, or it set to auto and it's dark outside. I appreciate the description of Type one and type two switchbacks. I may switch to type tow now that I know what they do.