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This link contains an interesting graph of brake fluid performance when moisture absorption exceeds DOT specified test limits https://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/resources/faq/dry-and-wet-boiling-points-dot-brake-fluid/ And increased hygroscopicity is not a bad thing. It keeps moisture from destroying metal components. It just means that a brake fluid tester should be used regularly to keep up with fluid condition, and/or do regular fluid flushes. You can get test strips/pens on Amazon pretty easy. Also note that if your brake system specifies LV fluid, be sure to check that the viscosity of any replacement fluid meets those specs.

No, I was talking about the 2.3. We have previously seen it in the Explorer. But to have that engine crammed into an MKC with the reputation the engine has thanks to the Mustang community gives me a glimmer of hope that we would see upgrades to it like have been developed for the gen 2 sport. Of course, nobody hotrods a Lincoln anymore, right So may be a task for someone who purchases an MKC as a second owner etc. I think it is a gem in the rough. Maybe even a retrofit project for 2.0EB based vehicles.

The fight for colder, denser air is always worth it when done right. And a performance intercooler is a big step forward. This is on a SHO, with the same limitations that any of the Ford boosted transverse platforms have: space

Let us know how it holds up for you longterm. Many many many owners esp those with special needs will be eternally grateful

Yeah, fluid changes have proven key for multiple performance-oriented models. The more extreme the demands, the more extreme the change intervals. And always try to get the best fluids you can - engine oil, transmission fluid, PTU/RDU fluids etc. A lot of owners are now running high E fuel - that takes a toll on engine oil. Not using high heat capable PTU fluid wears down bearings and ultimately chews up the gears. And yes, you CAN feel a difference immediately when you install hipo fluids. Coolant is not a big deal for the Ecoboost engines in the Edge/MKX/Nautilus platform as far as water pumps go, BUT additives do wear out and drop out of solution. The orange coolant is still not where it needs to be in terms of longterm performance. It poses challenges just like the gold coolant did. Specialty Green may have been the best thus far. Transmission fluid has detergents that help keep the transmission clean. BUT the "filters"/screens are internal. So you have no choice but to change fluid regularly. As vehicles get older, people are now taking the case halves apart themselves and replacing the screens, but that is not suitable for everyone, unless you are in SpecialK and snmjim's car club And of course, no one mentions brake fluid. Is it really that reliable? Maybe, but it could be much improved as well. Just be sure the fluid specs on your new fluid are the same or better than what Ford specs. It can negatively impact the ABS if not.

Nothing new for Ford. They have done pseudo-support for non Mustang and F150 performance oriented vehicles for decades now. Mostly because that is where the numbers say to put the resources. You saw advances in the Taurus and Explorer platforms in 2013 solely because they have a huge LEO fleet market to consider, and then of course defray the expenditure by spreading the goodies around to civilian model lines. They produced the Edge ST to make a change just for the sake of change? Maybe, maybe not. There wasn't really an Edge SPORT till the 2015 model year. Lipstick on a pig till then with all the bling - the bling was done quite well tho Even their FPS offerings for STs are not really for true enthusiasts. It does get you factory warranty with the upgrades, but the quality is just a starting line. Aftermarket is still where it is. I think they are really wanting to not do anything till the refresh when we will see an option for a hybrid, like we have seen with the new Explorer. What IS exciting to me is that the Corsair has the 2.3L EB option. Although tuning might be hobbled as it was with the 3.0EB for the Continental and MKZ, still it opens the door!

They are just trying to play catchup and are jelly of your achievements thus far!

The evap canister and vent solenoids are always under the vehicle. Remove the undercabin shields, and you will have access to them.

Front plugs can be deceiving. The back plugs will tell the real story. A lot of heat concentrated near the firewall. But as long as fuel trims look good and there are no performance issues, you should be ok.

Those three letters are ones to watch out for: AWD, PTU, etc 😄 Assuming the driving has been good, no unsettling sounds from the powertrain, regular maintenance would include: Change the PTU and RDU fluids Change the coolant Change the transmission fluid Change the power steering fluid Change the brake fluid Check all parts of the suspension, replace as needed - struts, strut mounts, shocks, sway bar links, etc. Change the accessory belts, and if necessary, the tensioner Check battery CCAs and if necessary, replace battery if alternator tests good and you drive enough to recharge battery If you have the Vista roof/BAMR, clean the tracks and lube with dielectric grease To protect from the salt bath, something like Fluid Film is recommended at least annually. IDK what shape your Edge is in tho. Change the cabin air filter at least annually There are probably other concerns I am leaving out Plenty of helpful info on this site, and videos are available on YouTube - MACTFORDEDGE channel, and elsewhere.

It says it will, in the description. So, the assumption is, yes.

Hard to draw a conclusion based strictly on the absence of data, BUT from Ford's point of view, there IS no problem since not a peep about it all these years. Of course we see stretched timing chains on vehicles that supposedly do not have that particular issue, so who's to say what hand YOU are going to be dealt. Tho I would tend to agree that in the aggregate it is not a major issue, but to the individual owner, it can be quite a shock.

At 200K+ miles, we really would like to know the maintenance history on both engine and transmission. Especially transmission fluid, but also plugs/coils/pcv valve etc. A whole lotta problems stem from just OLD fluid, and it is a cheap/easy place to start your diagnostic. Check the torque mount on the transmission, but that hard shift from D to R, assuming a complete stop prior to shifting, is likely to be the solenoid body assembly.

Not sure that Sync has any relationship to locks ... It could be as simple as the battery in the fobs or the vehicle battery itself. Weird behavior is typical of a battery starting to give out. Check cold cranking amps, not just voltage. Tho typically a Battery Saver message comes on Sync if the battery is failing. Did you get such a message? It is also possible the Remote Keyless Entry module is causing these problems. The reported incident rate is very low tho. Could be a short in the wiring itself leading to the driver controls. But have not heard of it causing issues like you are seeing.

Noise typical of a failed starter. That is what I would test and if it fails, replace.