WWWPerfA_ZN0W

glad to know things are going smoothly with your setup.

unless you have a high amp stereo system or similarly power hungry equipment, most of the electrical needs are at startup. once the vehicle has started and electronics have stabilized, headlamps and engine fans are usually the most power hungry appliances. on a highway drive, it is unlikely engine fans were needed. and unless you were driving in darkish conditions, or have DRLs on, the headlamps would not come into play. that is my best guess.

Should be. Just have to update the ATC strategy code (from label on the unit) so the RDU can be controlled properly by the PCM. There are officially 3 revisions used in gen 1.5: Production Date: 06/2009-08/2010 08/2010-07/2012 07/2012-04/2014 I have not seen any mention of specific changes in the factory manuals, but there may be slight differences in mounting. Sometimes they like to eliminate fixtures they deem unnecessary.

you will want to do them ALL, AND check the coils for integrity. rotate the front to back and back to front at the very least. these MYs have an issue with the worn plugs burning out coils burning out coil drivers in the PCM. can get expensive very fast.

only the idler gear is sold separately. otherwise, complete ptu.

make sure the manual selector valve / range sensor PIN are correctly aligned. that should do it.

https://www.youtube.com/c/MACTFordEdge/search?query=alternator all signs point to alternator failure. if it were charging the battery in your 2010, voltage should get up as high as 14.5-14.6 with the engine running, at least in the first few minutes from a cold start. use a device like a solar ba9 to check alternator function (the MACT effort gets a kickback from this link) https://amzn.to/2RPEGfY and/or use an amp meter to see how much current is actually flowing from the alternator to the battery. it has hardly ever been wiring related, but if there are pest issues in your area, it is a possibility. if terminals are not tightly attached, that is another possible scenario. buy a motorcraftalternator whenever possible, especially if you dont want a redo of the install.

can't see pics. OEM or aftermarket camera?

https://lombardfordwarrantys.com would be my goto. you can get lower quotes from Flood, Ziegler, Anderson Koch, etc. i have heard Lombards will match.

sounds to me like you need the BBK if you don't have it already lol

Cleaning hasn't been the issue, so I don't see Seafoam doing much of anything unless you have bad varnish buildup in the engine. Cushioning is provided by additives like Molybdenum and full synthetic base components like ester oils. It will be trial and error as to which oil works in this regard. Some have reported Amsoil is effective. In my testing thus far, Driven FR20 has been quite effective. As to +ve effects on wear/longevity, IDK.

best of luck then. you may have one of the good ones. this is the mileage generally stuff shows up so, fingers crossed.

This is awesome!

yes knock sensors are integral to the amount of timing advance / retard. the tstat is the first step. next is having the fans come on earlier and stay on longer, if you like to frequently stomp on the happy pedal. finally, get a better intercooler. all having been developed and put in production already.

with a 2018, sorry to say, you need to check if you have a Cleveland built engine. check for a 420 or 422 on the label on the pass side of the valve cover. if you could post the label here, even better. these particular blocks are known for coolant intrusion into the cylinders, the only fix being block replacement with a VEP block or remachined Cleveland block. =============