bigblock

Yep all cars have their issues , but it would be foolish to buy the same car after having over $5000 worth of issues. I just ordered the new jeep compass with a stick shift and all wheel drive. Since this model had a complete redesign I was hesitant to be the beta tester but my local dealership offers an unlimited powertrain warranty as long as they do the oil changes and basic maintenance. So while its a bit smaller and underpowered Ill give it a go. Its significantly cheaper and is the wifes car anyway ? not to mention i get the family plan pricing. Over the years Ive learned that you cant really trust a manufacturer, its all dependant on the specific model. For me the mustang has been a winner, and wouldnt hesitate to buy another. Just really frustrated over the edge where 2 design errors screwed up an otherwise excellent vehicle that we really loved for our family.

Yes, the oil pump is buried under the timing chains and there are a few threads on the pump seals letting loose and rapidly dumping into the oil pan. I pulled the dipstick and the oil level was way overfilled and milky. Just an asinine design. It sounds like there was a slight change to the water pump design sometime after 2010 model year but I'll never buy another vehicle with that engine in it. THe Edge was still running when my wife shut it off and had it towed. Best case senario is that I'm hoping I can replace the pump, flush the oil system and drive it about 20 miles to the dealer for trade in. Worst case scenario is used/reman engine or just write it off altogether depending on price(only worth around 4500 trade in). I just don't have the time to pull the engine myself. I don't want to hijack the thread, but since most people that are replacing PTU's are also running higher mileage I just wanted to give a heads up on a failure that is probably a bit less prevelent than PTU failure but can easily cost $3-4k for a shop to fix if you blow the engine. Mine died at ~165K miles. Since I sold my cobra last fall, this will be the first time in 22 years there won't be at least 1 ford in my driveway.

Probably a smart move to dump it. Its only been a few months since i replaced my PTU (which has been running fine) but the other day when my wife was driving the water pump failed suddenly and pumped all the coolant into the oil pan. Needless to say this one is not going to be a cheap fix. Im going to do the min to get it fired back up and trade it in. I would reccomend that anyone who plans to run up the miles on their edge either replace their pump($$$$) or check their fluids weekly, although i had just checked everything 2 weeks before the incident so its likely that it just let loose within a day or 2. Ford myst have had the intern design the pump location. Id love to see the FMEA for that component. Its too bad, we were planning on getting a new edge in a couple years since its a great vehicle in terms of power,cargo, and looks, but this was one failure too many. It was also the first car that ive owned which hasnt made it over 200,000 miles.

Just as a data point, the gear lube in my ptu still looked decient and was not low when it failed @ 150,000 miles. This is my first transfer case/ptu, but i've certainly seen worse fluid in functioning difs. Looks like there are a couple of different failure modes, but regardless any auto company should be able to put together a solid gearbox after a century of experience.

In terms of exhaust bolts, I just used a cheap screw on propane/Mapp torch from the hardware store. Get the nut good and hot, hammer on the socket and crank on it with a breaker bar. Theres only 4 on the main pipes, and youll need to take off the pass side cat which is 4 more. Nice thing about the cat is if the nut is frozen the stud will unscrew out. I had that happen on eone of the studs. My ptu came complete with the seals intact. Went back in much quicker than it came out. Overall the job isnt that bad, just be patient and prepared contort your arms and handa a bit.

Yep, I didnt put ATF in the PTU. The transmission leaks out some fluid when you pull the PTU.

I just finished installing a new PTU on my 2010 edge and thought id share some info/best practices. I understand why the dealer charges ~$1000 in labor. I probably could have done it faster but i did it over a couple long afteroons and spent 10-12 hours on it total. Work was done on my back with the edge up on ramps (get it up as high as you can). I suppose i shouldn't complain since i had 150,000 mi on the original ptu. Bought the replacement from my local dealer and it was the "G" model. It was pretty straightforward to remove and install, but some of the bolts are just a pain to get to. Youll need a buddy to push on the engine a bit to drop out the ptu once its all apart. Also, I recommend having a torch (mapp works fine) to get some heat on the exhaust bolts, to my surprise i was able to get them all out. Once it was all back together it needed just over 3 quarts of ATF to top it off. From my pics, the inside wasnt gummed up and the unit still had a good amount of the fluid in it. You can see the metal shaving that is evidence of the damage done. This is such a basic unit they really should made them bullet proof. Hopefully they dont assign the intern to do the next ptu design.

My wife works in sales and is on the road a lot. Its mainly highway so those are easy miles. My guess is that the base rotor isnt built to oem specs and is basically a "value" rotor that's drilled and slotted. As long as you get a good casting and use it in moderate driving it should be fine. Having to redo a set of brakes within a year is what frustrated me. I've gotten 80,000+ miles from a quality cross drilled rotor on my old stang that had some hard miles on it. Also just as a follow up, the other rotor had the same issues but not nearly as bad.

Since this was one of the first posts that came up in google I will dig up an old post and share my experience with powerstop rotors. I ran these for about 1 year with hawk hps pads. Bedded the pads in per manufacturer reccomendation as usual. Initially they worked well but not a real noticeable change in braking feel. They pretty much ate up the Pads in 1 year (~40k miles) which i knew was a possibility but the real issue is that one of the front rotors failed as you can see in the picks. Looks like the casting has voids in the rotor. Ill be sticking with a quality standard rotor (not drilled or slotted) from now on.