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JohnCT

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  1. Thanks everyone. My buddy is going to pass on the Edge. He'd prefer a built in nav and I agree. I've never seen a phone work as well as a dedicated navigation unit. On my wife's old 2009 Edge, if a voice prompt wasn't heard or understood, a simple press of the button on the tuning knob made it repeat the message without taking eyes off the road, although I don't know if the new Sync 4A offers a physical button like the 09 Sync radio had. If someone else borrows the car they won't have a nav unless they know how to sync their phones to the car. In my case, I often forget to take my phone (I'm not a Borg and don't have a hive mind where I need the security of constant contact). John
  2. I *think* the answer is no, but I thought I'd ask. It's odd that Ford would not add a way for the dealer to upgrade an existing vehicle to navigation. My Mazdas always had a provision for adding satellite radio and navigation to cars already equipped with the LCD display. Second question - can a junk yard donor provide the equipment necessary? A friend is looking at a 2022 Edge that doesn't have nav, but has a huge Tesla sized screen. 2022 Edge display Thanks for any input. John
  3. The handle is fine, the latch is porked. I generally go with OEM but web searching suggests that these factory power latch assemblies are garbage (they even had a program on them which of course is now expired), so I ordered a Dorman. My long experience with Ford tells me they never fix a crappy system unless they can do it for no cost, and only upgrade on the new generation. I'll put the new latch in this week and report what's involved. John
  4. Pushing 3/4 does indeed unlock all the doors, but unlocking the other doors is not the problem - pushing the FOB unlock twice unlocks them anyway as you know. The problem is the driver's door won't open from the outside and getting to the inside latch is a problem from any other door. The left side back door is too far away from the driver's door latch to get it (I have the wingspan of a condor and I can barely reach it) and if you unlatch it from the pass side, there's a chance the door will relatch if the car is leaning slightly toward the left.. If the window went down it would really make this easy. In any case, I ordered a Dorman part and will replace it next week. John
  5. Thanks, I was hoping there was an Easter Egg hiding in a key press combination (perhaps there is still!). I'll play around with it tonight but I'm afraid you're correct. John
  6. Sorry if this is the wrong forum. I have to replace a defective door latch on my wife's 2009 Edge Limited because the door won't open from the outside. It's a couple hours worth of work and I won't have time this holiday week even if the part shows up before Christmas. Is there a feature on the '09 where the windows can be dropped either from the FOB or the keypayd? Crawling over the passenger seat is a pain in the butt for older folks.. Thanks. John
  7. Hi all, a 2009 Edge Limited driver door won't unlock. When either unlocked by the fob, keypad, or the interior button, the door lock stub pops up but then immediately drops back down (not sure if it's being actively pulled down). Right now, we have to climb in the passenger door and open it with the door handle (which works normally). Using the manual key, the door lock stub can be moved to the up position (and held up if necessary) which would seem to be unlocked, but the car still won't open from the outside. I've read that there are issues with these locks/latches but all the complaints I've seen have to do with a "door ajar" indicator issue, something this car strangely does not have. I have not seen this particular issue anywhere I looked on the web, including here of course. Before I order a power door lock/latch assy, is there something I overlooked? Second question - since these are known to be problematic, is there a preferred aftermarket part or should I put in a Ford part? John
  8. When my wife had an 09, her car did this. I found a bad outer tie rod on both sides. Changed them both and had it aligned. Problem gone. John
  9. Has anyone tried taking a long Torx tool like this one: .. and cutting it down behind the head to gain access to the fasteners behind the tone ring? Or, would this tool work for that purpose without relieving it behind the tip as is? Thanks. EDIT: I'm inclined to try to make this tool. Does anyone know how thin the "waist" behind the head needs to be? I don't want to make it too thin for obvious reasons but I also don't want to knacker the tone ring either... Thanks again. John
  10. The NAV straightened itself out. It probably had to figure itself out after I reset it a few days ago. It's now on track and usable. One thing I noticed is that the "no gps" warning square pops up on and off on the display while driving today. This was my wife's car before we gave it to my sister and she doesn't remember the no gps indicator, but then, she might not have noticed it even if it did pop up. Is this abnormal? This has a new antenna and it acts like the other antenna I changed a few years ago. I also tried reconnecting the original antenna still mounted under the dash and it doesn't work at all. So the original antenna was bad and I've tried two Chinese aftermarket antennas that work - kind of. I wonder if the marginal reception is because of the cheap antennas. At least it works so I'm not going to worry about it. Thanks for the help everyone. John
  11. No, running stock wheels and tires. Battery about two years old and tests perfect on electronic analyzer. Thanks for the reply. John
  12. In Connecticut, which tends to be hilly with a lot of tall trees. Here's some more info that I didn't think to mention: this car had a bad tone ring - so to keep the ABS from chattering the brakes on dry pavement, I pulled the ABS fuse which disabled the AWD, ABS, traction, and stability until I had the chance to install the new axle. Disabling the ABS also eliminated the NAV from dead reckoning using the car's speed sensors (like when in a tunnel or in a tall stand of trees), so the radio announced a Nav error. Once I installed the new axle and restored the ABS, the GPS still refused to dead reckon even after a couple days of usage. Resetting the phone settings suddenly allowed the dead reckoning to work and the NAV is now functional again, except of course for the 1/4 error. I'll drive it a few more days before giving it back to my sister and see if the NAV sorts itself out. Thanks. John
  13. 2009 Edge Limited. The NAV works but it always lags about 1/4 mile behind regardless of direction. In the diagnostic menu, it shows anywhere between 2 and 5 satellites depending on conditions, but it's always behind. Needless to say it's tough or impossible to use. I went into the phone section and did a reset and that didn't help. I don't see any method of resetting the NAV or calibrating it. This is a car I gave to my sister a few years ago, and it worked properly when I last had it. Is it just too old to work? BTW, I just picked up another antenna on Amazon, and it acts the same way. Thanks. John
  14. My sister went to have new tires installed on her 2009 AWD, and the tire shop couldn't get one of the lug nuts off on the right front. I took a quick look at it and the stud itself is spinning in the hub (I opened a hole on the decorative outer trim cap to see the stud center). Is there enough room behind the hub to tack weld the stud down to the back of the hub in order to pull the wheel off? She's going back today because they said they could change the stud, but in case they run into a problem, I'd like to know what my options are. If we can get it apart, I'll change the hub/bearing. Also, are these front hubs problematic where it might be better to replace both front hub/wheel bearings? Thanks. John
  15. JohnCT

    Spark Plugs

    My sister's 09 set a code last week for a #3 misfire (front of the engine) so I tossed in an NGK plug I picked up locally to get her going. The original misfiring plug was gapped over .09. I ordered a set of Motorcraft plugs, Motorcraft coil boots, Motorcraft PCV valve, and Felpro intake plenum gaskets and changed them Saturday. These plugs are supposedly pregapped but they were inconsistent. Half of them needed to be tweaked. All the rest of the remaining original plugs were in the same shape with over .085 and up gap measured. At 90K miles, these plugs were probably at least 20K beyond their expiration. And just like the old Escapes, a misfire will damage the coil drivers in the PCM and require replacement or rebuild of the PCM, so it's prudent to replace the plugs *before* they misfire. The total job took about 90 minutes and required no special tools. Just a basic socket set, a channel lock pliers to squeeze a hose clamp that held a hose onto the plenum, and a "cats claw" tool to help pop out the wire looms. It may seem daunting at first but removing the upper intake plenum is very easy. Just remember to stuff rags into the intake runners after the plenum is removed lest you drop something down the intake and into the engine (that's bad folks.) There is information both on the web and on this site from other members for the procedure so I won't describe it except to say it's an easy job. Don't be afraid to change the plugs yourself, and make sure you do BEFORE you get a misfire and damage your PCM. John
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