carguy75
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Posts posted by carguy75
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I found this product here that requires the control board be swapped to add Nav to a Mytouch system.
There are three video total that explain the whole installation.
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One of mine got curb-rashed by the wife. I am looking at the same thing. If I can replace the skins, I'd be better off.
I feel your pain.
I would buy a replacement wheel but I know that an accident will just happen again so I may just remove the covers on the current wheels and have them powdercoated or PVD coated for a chrome look so it will be easier to repair in the future.
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Well I did it !!!
It took about 10 minutes to do the install.
The only problem is that the white plastic mounting tab is kind cheap and mine had a piece break off but it still works.
The visor screws are Torx 20.
Here is some pics and quick how-to.
First I removed the cover with a panel tool to expose the two screws for the visor mount.
Next I pulled the driver side pillar off.
Then I removed the two visor mount screws with a torx 20 bit.
Next I pulled down the weather stripping around the door opening.
Then I pulled down the left section of the headliner to expose the green visor power connector.
Next I pulled the glued green visor connector free from the headliner and unplugged the old visor and then plugged in the new visor.
Checked the vanity mirror/home-link buttons to make sure it has power/function.
Then I reinstalled everything in reverse order.
Last I cleared the home-link memory(pressing the two outside buttons at the same time) and programmed the unit.
Done.
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I can take a picture if needed. I have the 3.7l, so the exhaust could be different, but I still had room to work around it.
Picture this:
Laying on your back looking up at the drain plug. You can place the handle of the ratchet facing towards the front of car, while positioning the 3/8" head of the wrench so it slides in to the drain plug. It should only be torqued to 25-30ft/lbs, so it should loosen fairly easy.
When looking at the PTU, and drain plug, there was a sub frame in between my body and the PTU. I was able to reach down (towards my legs) and around (above) the sub frame, with plenty of room to feed the drain hose.
Yes pictures would help if you ever get time to take a few.
On my Edge an exhaust flex pipe and metal bracket prevents my from putting my hands near the drain plug.
I tried but the only way for me to reach my drain plug is to use a extension and feed the pump hose up pass the exhaust pipe.
The job is doable that way, but I can foresee a mess and gear oil dripping on the exhaust flex pipe.
That will stink for weeks until the oil burns off.
I will just unbolt the exhaust pipe at the manifold and move it to the side when I change my PTU fluid to make my life easier.
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So it really is plug and play - headliner doesn't need to be removed.
Correct, not the entire head liner.
Just the area around the A-pillar has to be pulled down to access the visor plug.
I should have typed remove the A-pillar and pull down a part of the headliner to access plug.
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Headliner removal takes seconds (you really only need to remove A pillar cover.
I did mine for under $40 and took under an hour.
http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12674-adding-homelink-rear-view-mirror-to-2012-ford-edge-sel/
Here's a good (older) write up from a Ford Edge:
http://www.escape-city.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4074
Just a note, my visor home link plastic had to be cut out (the lines were molded in the plastic) with a blade. The plastic is soft and easy to cut through.
Nice job!!!
Your install look very OEM and clean.
Not bad for only $40.
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Does your current visor have a lighted vanity mirror?
Yes.
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Just finished the PTU and rear differential. My PTU seal was serviced last June, I'm certain the fluid was fully changed then. So when I changed the fluid it came out dark, but was still easy to pump out. I was worried about over filling, but I think I added about 12oz.
The rear differential fluid was grey and milky, and was much harder to pump out. I tried to use the 1/8" tubing to pump it back in but gave up and used some 1/4" tubing, which sped everything up. I'm not sure how full it was but I filled it till it drained out.
I did check everything while I was under there, and my rear passenger CV housing seal is seaping a bit. My Edge is a CPO, and still under the 5/60 with 43,000 miles, is this something to worry about, or am I asking for more problems having them tear in to the differential?
Doing the PTU was really simple, I didn't even need the 3/8" wobble. I just stuck the wrench up there. I laid on my back and had plenty of room for my hands.
What engine do you have in your Edge?
On my 2011 Edge with the 3.5 I do not have much room to access my PTU drain plug without moving the exhaust pipe it seems.
I can use a long handle socket I suppose, but it looks like it would be a very time consuming and messy affair trying to doing without just moving the exhaust to the side on my 2011 with the 3.5 engine.
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Gas station was a mile down the road no fears. I rarely let it get to that level but sometimes time runs out and you have to push. Anyway new AEM dry filter ordered and will be installed tomorrow (Note: Making the install quick video just for Akirby just because he is such a fanatic on after market air filters) LOL. Thought I would try out a dry filter vice the K&N oil type to see how it works out.
LOL.
I remember what happened when I posted about using the same type of dry filter in my Edge.
A certain moderator tried his best to discredit it.
I can wait to hear the different if any between an oiled performance air filter and dry performance air filter in the 3.5.
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Yes, it is simple plug & play. Did on my 2011 MKX as we don't get the home link transmitters on any Ford or Lincoln in our region.
Weird about the Home-link option or lack of.
Ford is funny like that as my car has automatic rain sensing wipers, blind spot monitoring, panoramic sun roof, premium My-touch sound/display,AWD, parking sensors, etc. but no home-link device.
Well that problem will soon be solved.
The hardest part will be pulling down the headliner to get to the green power connector for the visor it seems from what i read on the job.
Thanks for confirming that it is plug and play.
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You can also retrofit any visor homelink module from any vehicle. The only tricky part is getting the fabric off and back on in one piece. You can power it from the vanity mirror wiring. And you may need to dremel out a hole for it although I think the newer visors have the space molded in already.
I paid $37 for mine several years ago for my 06 Fusion. It was a Maxima visor.
Thanks for the information.
I was looking at retrofitting a transmitter from a another car(mirror or visor) or cutting the sun-visor and mounting a universal unit, but just decided to wait for a OEM one since I like having a clean OEM look to my accessories.
I am picky like that.
Plus, i hate dealing with cutting and stringing wires into things that are very visible since I am very picky about flaws
Man, that HomeLink stuff eats batteries for breakfast
I have not considered that.
However, i do charge my car batteries every month so i should be ok.
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Next week I will be installing a Home-link visor in my wife's 2011 Ford Edge SEL.
Our Edge is loaded, but did not come with an Home-link installed.
Home-link seems to be only available on the Limited and maybe Sport models.
So we have been using a garage clicker clipped on the visor, since a new Home-link visor from Ford cost nearly $400.00.
It took nearly a year of searching Ebay, but a used Home-link visor from a 2012 Ford Edge finally became available for a little over $100.00 and it is in very good condition.
So I will be installing it next week when I get some time.
For what I read it should be a simple plug and play install, so we will see.
I will post some pics and instructions for anyone else who may what to also install Home-link in their Edge.
Here is my visor I got in the mail today.
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I have a cylinder 4 misfire on my wife's 2009 edge. 110,000k miles.
I swapped coils between #4 & #5, no change in error code.
I swapped plugs between #4 & #5, no change in error code.
I put heet in the gas, thinking I might have water in the gas no change
I put BG 44K fuel injector cleaner in the tank and let it run for an hour, still have the cylinder #4 misfire
The plugs looked good.
Any suggestions?
Not to insult you or anything, but what cylinder do you think is cylinder #4 on your engine?
You may have swapped the wrong plugs if you got your cylinders wrong, hence why the engine is till misfiring.
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Hi
I have a 2012 edge with less than 10k miles on it. Sometimes, but not all the time, when I am at a stoplight and it goes green, I hear a low level hum (cant exactly make out where its coming from but feel its somewhere in the center of the vehicle). It goes away rather quickly within a couple seconds. The hum doesn't fade away but after the couple of seconds it just completely stops. The car appears to be running fine with no issues aside from this hum.
Has anyone else exhibited this type of hum?
I could be from the drive-shaft if the other posted possible problems are not correct.
It may just need to be lubricated in the joints with grease or at the worst maybe you have a leaky drive-shaft seal which is causing the drive shaft bearing to go bad hence the humming noise.
It happens because Ford engineering is the worst of all the automakers.
Just kidding before someone locks this thread.
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They're not hubcaps and it's real chrome on the surface. They just used a plastic substrate which saves weight and won't corrode and pit over time like steel. Ours were 6 years old when we traded our 08 Edge and they looked like new. Downside is they're hard if not impossible to repair.
Thank you for the information.
I read on a Dodge forum(they have chrome wheel covers as well) that you do have to have the wheel polished to remove all the epoxy.
The wheels on the Dodge look like crap with the covers off until he polished them.
I assume ours will look the same.
http://www.ramforum.com/f41/crome_clad_covers_glue_removal-7343/
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How hard is it to remove the plastic covers?
My wife curbed one pretty bad and the plastic is bent up a bit.
I looks horrible.
I would just pull all the covers off and go with the painted finish, but I am scared on what I find under the covers or if it will be too much work to get the plastic chrome covers off without damaging the finish underneath.
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Yes, I agree with that statement.
No, I disagree. The PTU is still failing. It's the same flawed design. As stated before, it needs a drain or a complete redesign...Or, they improved the the current design (7 up dates?) JUST ENOUGH to make it last for the initial warranty...than they don't give a sheet.
Darn, I keep thinking that the PTU failures are a thing of the past.
Well i hope mine last as long as I own my Edge.
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Since you';ve already made up your mind and you won't be swayed by any facts to the contrary, I agree. Let it go.
And that website you posted is nothing but clickbait with no meaningful information.
Well if you have some good information to share, do so by all means.
I just used that link as a quick reference that the Ford F150 Eco-boost was not the best example for the member to use as Ford's banner of product perfection just because they added a splash shield, since many other serious problems is still tarnishing the brand and model.
That is why we have this forum, so we can trade information or share it.
My point is that these posts can go on and on when it just become a trade-off of opinions with some article linked here and there that really do not provide any hard proof or concrete facts that disprove one side or the other.
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Every part of every Ford car is designed and tested to last 150,000 miles and has been for quite some time. The fact that some parts don't make it that long is only due to production variability or customer usage that isn't captured in Ford's test procedures.
100% true, but automakers have learned that long-term reliability leads to higher profits.
Here's an example of how Ford cares. The Ecoboost F150 had an issue where water splashing up from the tires could bounce around and hit the exhaust manifold. Over a long time (~80,000+ miles) this can cause the manifold to crack. So Ford added a shield at a cost of around $5 to every EB F150 even though there was no history of anyone having a cracked manifold under warranty.
What you say sounds good.
However, if Ford really designed every part on the vehicle to last 150K miles on the Edge(or any recent vehicle over the last several years since you mention the practice have been going on for a while) then some engineers need to be fired because they are not correctly testing the parts for real world durability (wheel bearing, power steering hoses, brake booster,PTU, AC condenser,etc).
My AC condenser failed at 22k miles!!!
Well Ford maybe considerate enough to add a $5 metal shield to prevent a cracked manifold, but they still are having problems fixing existing problems with the Eco-boost in the F150.
http://ford2015car.com/common-problems-ford-ecoboost/
However, i never stated that Ford do not care at all, just not enough to spend more money than deemed acceptable to correct issues that happen later in life on the car pass 5 years/60k miles.
Now, before we go on and on with this, i really do not work for any automotive company so I really do not know how much resources go where in any company.
This is just my opinion I am posting , like yours unless you are a CEO or key member of management in the Ford Motor Company.
So lets just have our own take on the matter instead of trying speculate our way to victory here on this forum.
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You can believe whatever you want. but it's a fact that automakers do care. Here's a quote from Ford's 1st quarter earnings call:
As shown below the chart, favorable lease residual performance due to higher auction values in North America contributed to the higher pre-tax profit compared with fourth quarter 2014.
Surely with your economics background you can understand how higher sale prices for used cars at the corner dealer relate to higher auction values.
Right from the CEO's mouth:
"One of the biggest dissatisfiers to customers is when, at the time they want to sell their vehicles, if it's lost a lot of value," says Mark Fields, president of the Americas for Ford Motor, at a dinner during the industry's annual Management Briefing Seminars here in northern Michigan.
LOL.
I know that they care.
Any business cares about subsequent markets and product demand.
My point is that Ford do not care enough to design its components just to appease used car owners.
Any designs Ford make to its cars is focused more on the new car buyer, and most components are designed to last through the warranty period at the least.
If lucky, the parts will go longer but the standard I believe is the warranty period.
I believe this because it costs Ford money to repair cars under warranty and those repairs have a better chance of reducing the demand for their products.
So yes, Ford cars about used car owners, but not as much as attracting and keeping new car owners.
Plus, you have to remember if old cars lasted longer it would drive down the demand for new cars and reduce the revenue from replacement parts and repair services done by the automakers at their repair facilities.
So Ford, and other cars makers know what they are doing when it comes to designing components and their lifespans.
Sometimes, the parts fails too soon and cost them money when it fails during the warranty period.
In which they are quick to find a solution, like with the early PTU seals on the pre-2011 Edges, which costs Ford a lot of money due to having to replace the whole PTU on cars under warranty before the new seal was developed.
If the same PTU seals failed at 100k miles, then owners would be still complaining about needing a solution I believe.
Profit and losses is what automakers really care about, not much else.
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Don't you think that high residual values (driven by used car sales) results in cheaper leases thereby giving Ford a pricing advantage versus the competition?
Not so much how many used cars are sold but rather the average resale price. Seems legitimate to me.
No. Higher demand equals higher price, less demand equals less price.
So yes a higher demand on used cars would bring lease/new car prices down, but Ford may not have an price advantage since demand/preference usually determines price(supply/demand also come into play).
Therefore another maker may be more preferred to Ford and sale more cars which means that they can sale their cars for less money than Ford(KIA for example) since Ford still has to make enough profit to keep running.
Amazon and Walmart are prime examples of selling quality products cheaply at large volumes less than the competition.
Overall, If anything used car sales bring in less money than a new car in our current market.
You have to factor in depreciation and sales volume into your question when comparing profits from used cars sales vs. new car sales.
Most used cars are value nearly 50% of what they were valued when new, especially American cars made by Ford.
So in theory it would take two used five year old Ford Edges to equal the value of one new Ford Edge sold.
The lease is even better because Ford will gain two sources of profit from the transaction, the lease(including fees) and the sale of the return car either as CPO or at the auto auction.
I agree that if Ford sales the used cars then it has more interest in the used car market prices(any business would), but ultimately Ford only have a small interest(prices and demand) in the used car market conducted outside it facilities I believe.
But not enough to make the Ford Edge components last longer just to appease used car owners, like the topic was originally intending to address.
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Ford clearly and specifically lists the parts that are covered by each warranty including the powertrain warranty. I would assume other mfrs do the same thing. But most people never bother to read it.
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/07frdwa5e.pdf
So true.
Many owners like myself do make assumptions that everything will be covered if it is connected to the engine or transmission, but that is not the case with power-train warranties.
Some manufacturers cover more than others with broader coverage and some are very specific like Ford.
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This is not true. Who do you think own's every Ford leased through Ford Credit when the lease is over? Ford does. Ford has to sell those vehicles (usually at auction) and the more money they can get for them, the more profit they make.
Or to look at it the other way, a lease price is a very simple calculation. It's the price of the new car, minus the price of the car at the end of the lease, divided by the length of the lease with some financing added on. Therefore if you have a higher projected residual value (price at the end of the lease), the montly payment for the customer will be lower. Lower monthly payments translate directly to more sales. Therefore automakers do care greatly about used car prices because it does directly impact their new car sales.
LOL. I was talking about used cars sales overall.
Yes, Ford and other car manufacturers resale leased cars returned to them usually under the CPO program like i mentioned in an earlier post and at auto auctions.
However, Ford do not care or profit from used car sales done at privately owned dealerships(Carmax for example) or personal sales conducted by owners.
No matter how you try to flip it with your excellent attempt of marketing terminology usage, the automakers main focus is on new car sales /leases not the used car market.
I never said that they do not have any interest in used cars, however used cars do not create the large profit gains that is generated by new cars sales/leases which include financing and interest profits .
Since I am not receiving any cash dividends or profits from any auto maker I will let you have your opinion on the matter.
If you really feel that Ford and other automakers highly value used car sales outside their facilities and prices of the cars sold in private transactions,so be it.
I believe otherwise.
Well, maybe automakers do value the free advertisement of having older cars with their brand-name driving on the road, which helps create a reputation of durability that help attract customers which causes a demand for their product.
I took a few economic/marketing classes (micro and macro included)in college way back when as well.
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It is very interesting to hear the terminology of those who seem to see all things through a blue lens. They take terms completely out of context or meaning to attempt to discredit concerns. Jumping up and down? Come on, get real. This is a known problem. The failure rate for both transmissions and PTU units are far higher than normal. Google the repair records for this car. It is far worse than normal. That is unquestionable with clearly easy to find numbers. All I asked at the beginning of this thread is for Ford to own up to a poorly engineered part, a major part, and offer some relief to those who were stuck because of it. I have found instances easily this morning of people who bought an extended powertrain warranty from Ford and then Ford refused to honor it when a sensor, that is a known issue, failed by calling it an electrical failure. The part was inside of the transmission. Look up the used car ratings on these. Ford can clearly stick their collective head in the sand on this. Maybe they, and I think this is it, hope that enough people will just overlook the issue. They might. That does not mean they don't richly deserve to be called out on it.
You are right about Ford and their power-train warranties.
I was lucky to have bought a extended warranty when I first bought my used 2011 Ford Edge, because Ford blamed my leak on transmission cooler/AC condenser unit, which is not considered a power-train component even though it is part of the transmission.
I would have had to pay over $1000 to replace it myself, if I did not have my extended warranty.
So again, I agree that Ford do have some crappy ways of getting out of repairing cars under their power-train warranty.
Even Nissan repaired a leaky power steering hose under the power-train warranty coverage on my old 2006 Murano, which my Ford dealership told me was not covered under the power-train warranty coverage when i asked what was covered specifically after I was told that my transmission-cooler was not.
So used car buyers beware, Ford power-train warranty really only covers the internal engine parts, internal transmission parts and internal differentials/transfer-case parts .
Good news is that the PTU is supposed to be covered though, just not any thing outside the unit.
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/14frdwa3e.pdf
Diameter of front-brake rotors
in All Wheel Drive (AWD)
Posted · Edited by carguy75
The rotors look nice!!
But I would just get some just slotted or even plain rotors, since the holes and slots in these rotors actually gives you less surface area for the brake pads to grab on to.
The drill rotors are good to have with racing pads to prevent fading from heat, but do not really work better than plain rotors on regular roads.
I would try to find some high carbon plain rotors or slotted if you really love that look and some carbon pads, that will be powerful braking combination.
High carbon rotors applies more friction to pads for quicker stops and the carbon pads resist fading so they can keep up with the high carbon rotors since regular OEM pads will fade sooner when paired with high carbon rotors.
FYI, I think that your Edge may only have the 11.8 front rotors since only the AWD models and Sport models get the 12.6 front rotors.
I would look at your front and rears rotor and see if they are the same size(or if the rears are larger since Ford changed brake design in 2011), if so then the you have the 11.8 front rotors.