Everything posted by Krcole
Old thread but for those searching like I was. I was able to change the pcv on a 2012 without removing intake. Had already done the plugs and reassembled which really isn't a big deal. Just lots of things to unplug, move around etc. Anyways a week later I realized I forgot to do the pcv. Oh well. I only had to remove the plastic cover that goes around the oil filler and has one twist screw and a push anchor. After this is off you can see the pcv on back side of engine just past the first plug/coil pack from passenger side. The toughest part was getting the spring clamp off / up so I could get the hose off. After that I used a small pair of pliers to twist out the pcv and the new one in. Spins out easily when you grip on the flats of the pcv. Getting hose back on took a few minutes again because of the clamp. In hindsight, I should have just removed the hose up top where easily accessible and just twisted the pcv out while still in hose and reassembled the same way. I feel sure it will twist out of engine and spin inside of the hose with clamp still engaged. I'll find out next week when I do the explorer, also a 2012.
For anyone with the sudden sinking pedal. I had the pedal go to the floor with my son on a learner's permit driving. Slipped into intersection and luckily nobody was coming from either way. Repaired under warranty with brake booster replaced. Few months later went over rough railroad crossing and pedal again went to floor with no power brakes. Paid ford dealership another $1200 to repair with new brake master cylinder installed. Three months later hit a patch of snow and antilock activated and same problem, no power brakes. Ford said good news, we've replaced everything so should be no charge this time. Days later call and say it's the abs control module stuck valve, $1200. I called bs and said pull her out and give me the keys. I may have used less civilized words. Watched a lot of youtube stating I should jam on brakes to activate and "unblock" the abs manifold/block/module. Tried and no luck. Finally, read further and someone suggested not only jamming brakes on gravel road in forward to activate abs but also doing in reverse. Tried in reverse and pedal IMEDIATLLY came back to normal. 1 1/2 years later 30k miles later and free youtube fix still going with no problems and $2400 stealership fixes were a waste and never did fix problem or protect my family. After you make ford replace the booster under the extended coverage customer satisfaction program, find a gravel road, drive her up to 25 mph a couple of times and jam the brakes, then do same in reverse (no need to be at 25 here) then send me the ,$2,400. Only kidding. Those sacks of xxx at stealership will try to charge you that much and dont really fix, they just bleed and temporarily mask the problem. Just walk in and tell them Ken says they suck.
Krcole replied to omar302's topic in Recalls, TSBs & WarrantyFor those that say the brake booster failure in NOT a safety issue please read. My 15yr old on a learner's permit was driving. Sitting at light for some time and brake starts makeing hissing noise under dash. Car lunged forward. Son says I've got pedal to floor! Fortunately he was smart enough to press the emergency brake before we were fully into oncoming traffic. Calling dealer tomorrow to determine how to proceed but sadly someone will be killed because of this mfg defect if they haven't already. If you pump brakes it's like old school manual brakes. Hold the pedal any time and it goes to floor and....