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Jonathan Lynch

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  1. Ok, so took the risk and updated. Went flawlessly. CarPlay works well. A couple of things I noticed were CarPlay is accessible regardless of what audio choice you are listening to, but in order to play music from your iPhone, you have to select iPhone as the audio source prior to using. This requires going back to sync first if CarPlay is active. True for stored music, Pandora, and Spotify. Also in order to use Sync NAV, CarPlay has to be disabled or unplugged. Disable through CarPlay preferences, but it's easier to unplug. This means no Sync NAV and CarPlay at the same time. At least I haven't figured out how to do this yet. Anyone else?
  2. I have the file for the 2.2 update for NAV. I am wondering if there is a file for the current 1.0 system, just in case I need to downgrade, or if the update bricks my system for some unlucky reason. Did someone post a 1.0 file earlier? I scanned through the 9 pages of posts but didn't see it.
  3. Oh, and I saw this asked before somewhere, but never saw an answer... is there anywhere to download v. 1.0 of the sync 3 software? I would hate to try installing 2.2 without having a back up of the original system. I did a search for v1.0 online but didn't see it anywhere...
  4. I tried and tried to use the tools to pop out the hub to no avail. Thanks to the info about pulling out the side trim, I was able to pull out trim on both side, pull up the trim for the back shelf, and gained access to the hub. I simply stuck my finger in and found the clip on the bottom of the hub, released that, and then holding the hub halfway out with my other hand, reached in again and popped the top out, sliding the hub out. This technique took less than 30 seconds once I was aware of where all the clips were located. No tools needed. My iPhone flashlight helped me see where everything was. The shelf trim and the side trims popped back into place easily as well. Even though I haven't updated my sync yet to 2.2, I did notice a change. When I selected my iPhone in the audio source, new buttons for Pandora and Spotify appeared on my screen. So already seeing how much better the new hub is.
  5. Carplay is supposed to come out on the 2017 Escape sometime in May. I would assume an update will be available shortly after.
  6. Next tank, low fuel warning finally came on with 8 miles to empty. Talk about scary low! Does anyone know if this might have something to do with being in my first 1000 miles? I think I recall something like this happening with my 2012 Edge Sport, too.
  7. So low fuel warning FINALLY came on with 20 miles till empty. The fuel gauge turned a yellowish orange and "Low Fuel Warning" message appeared on left LCD screen. The remaining fuel gauge was a thin orange line, which did little to reassure me that I will be reminded about fuel. Guess I have to re-establish those 20th century skills of actually paying attention to my fuel level and when to fill up. I preferred my 2012 Sport which sent out a reminder when tank reached 1/4 tank level.
  8. Not happening. Should I reset the fuel economy, or is this an issue that needs to be serviced? Again, display says 22 miles to empty when I go to that screen, but otherwise...nada. No yellow, no message, nothing.
  9. I don't see a low fuel light anywhere. My old 2012 edge used to come up on the left side lcd screen with a yellow screen i had to "OK" out of that listed miles left til empty. Nothing is there. No fuel light with a little gas pump symbol showing up anywhere when car starts. No nothing. I only have 250 miles on the car, too...
  10. Down to 22 miles til empty. Still no warning light. This will only be my second fill up, so not sure if there is some computer mechanism watching driving patterns before light activates. Will continue to watch...
  11. I'm at 30 miles left and still no low fuel warning on my 2016 Edge Sport. Will continue watching and report back.
  12. Ok, found this on another site. It is from the 2013-2014 Ford Escape Repair Manual, but the Ambient Air Sensor is the same part # as the 2016 Edge. Thus, this info probably applies to me. LA traffic is to blame for my problem.... Outside Air Temperature Display The Ambient Air Temperature (AAT) sensor provides the Ambient Air Temperature (AAT) data used for the outside air temperature display in the IPC. The Ambient Air Temperature (AAT) sensor is hardwired to the PCM through separate input and return circuits. The PCM provides a reference voltage to the Ambient Air Temperature (AAT) sensor and monitors the change in voltage resulting from changes in resistance as determined by outside air temperature. The PCM filters the Ambient Air Temperature (AAT) input and sends the BCM the air ambient temperature filtered message over the HS-CAN. The BCM sends the air ambient temperature filtered message to the IPC over the MS-CAN. Due to the location of the Ambient Air Temperature (AAT) sensor in the front grill area, it is greatly influenced by heat generated from the engine compartment at low vehicle speeds and at engine idle. For this reason the outside air temperature value displayed in the IPC does not update in the upward (hotter) direction under 33 km/h (20 mph). This update strategy is used because the PCM is unable to determine whether the increase in temperature is truly from an ambient temperature rise or by heat generated from the engine compartment. The outside air temperature display in the IPC updates in the upward (hotter) direction under either of the following situations: - if the vehicle is driven over 33 km/h (20 mph) continuously without the vehicle speed dropping below 33 km/h (20 mph) for approximately 90 seconds. - if the vehicle is allowed to sit with the engine off for approximately 6 hours (the outside air temperature display in the IPC immediately updates to reflect the current ambient conditions since the engine has cooled sufficiently and no longer has an effect on the outside air temperature sensor reading). NOTE: If the vehicle speed drops below 33 km/h (20 mph) before the outside air temperature display in the IPC begins to update, the PCM logic resets and the time starts over. Because this filtering strategy exists, it may be necessary to drive the vehicle continuously above 33 km/h (20 mph) for approximately 90 seconds when observing the outside air temperature display operation. After the vehicle has been driven above 33 km/h (20 mph) for 90 seconds, the outside air temperature display in the IPC starts to rise (filter upward), increasing toward the actual outside air temperature. Depending on the difference between what the outside air temperature is displaying in the IPC and the actual outside temperature, it can take several minutes for the outside air temperature display in the IPC to reach the outside temp. The outside air temperature display in the IPC does not filter in the downward (colder) direction and always displays the coldest temperature detected by the sensor even when the vehicle is stationary. When the outside Ambient Air Temperature (AAT) is lower than the temperature displayed in the IPC, the IPC immediately updates the displayed temperature downward to reflect the colder ambient air temperature, even at idle.
  13. Ok, I officially hate the outside temp gauge. Drove around today for hours in 85+ temps and outside air gauge never moved from 70 degrees. Seems I have to get on the freeway to have it update, but I never need to drive on freeway, mainly just around town. What's the point of this thing?
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