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About mjonis

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  1. mjonis

    Sync Connect?

    But my reply was specifically in regards to waldo's post that: "Of course there's logic. To have Ford Connect you need a modem. To put in a modem you need wiring and software" That's why I replied: "Not sure about the needing wires for a modem part" Plugging in an ODB module to get a modem doesn't need new wiring. How am I reading that wrong that the plug in module adds a modem? "Ford SmartLink plugs into a car's OBDII port, hidden under the dashboard, and contains a GPS chip and 4G/LTE modem." I never said it was the same, you're putting words in my mouth.
  2. So, had this issue on my Pioneer AVH 4000 NEX head unit, have it also on my Hyundai SFS with Carplay, so I'm pretty sure it's a Carplay/iHeart radio issue, but need more data points. I had a previous issue that iHeart Radio eventually duped and mostly fixed. iPhone 6s with latest public release of iOS (no beta). 1) Make sure your iHeart Radio app is not running on the iPhone (need to double tape the home key to pull up the list of apps "running" and nuke iHeart Radio if running) 2) Plug in iPhone to car. Carplay screen should show up on iPhone and a few seconds later, the iPhone should "lock" (go blank on you). 3) Now, use touch screen or Carplay (speak to siri) to: Play iHeart Radio What happens on my iPhone (both with Pioneer head unit and new vehicle), probably 90% of the time: Carplay spins around and then says it can't connect to iHeart Radio. Try again "button" on touchscreen (head unit) is there. Try again like 3 times, still no go. What does seem to work: 1) While it's spinning "connecting" to iHeart radio, unlock the iPhone screen, then all of a sudden you'll see iHeart radio launch on iPhone. or 2) Back out to the main Carplay menu on head unit and go *back* into iHeart Radio, then it'll finally load. All other apps work fine (don't have this issue). Also had an issue (iHeart Radio duped it) where if you were using iHeart Radio and then went out to radio/XM/whatever on head unit, that 3 minutes later it would switch back to iHeart Radio (very annoying). Took 'em about 3 months and like 7 updates to finally mostly resolve it (happens rarely now).
  3. mjonis

    Sync Connect?

    Not sure about the needing wires for a modem part, unless I'm reading this article wrong: https://www.cnet.com...ected-features/
  4. Thought this was interesting: https://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/ford-smartlink-gives-older-cars-remote-start-other-connected-features/
  5. mjonis

    Sync 3 Voicemail Playback

    Not so in reagrds to the same BT standard. Android (Unless Google has recently changed this) does not support all the bluetooth profiles like Apple does. One of the reasons on a Pioneer Head unit (for example) that bluetooth only (vs. USB/Carplay/AppRadio connection) on iOS can utilize playlists, etc. whereas Android cannot. Further complicate this by Samsung's BT implementation that (at least on Galaxy S4/S5) had known issues with various things. Although I would say in Ford's defense that it's more difficult outside of Android Auto to ensure compatibility as there's many diff. versions of the OS, then you have the phone vendor and/or Phone provider that further tweak things so it makes it a bit difficult sometimes. Apple, being a closed ecosystem is *usually* easier to deal with in that regard, IMO.
  6. IF it makes you feel any better, the Kia Sorento and Hyundai Santa Fe vista roofs also making noises due to the heating/cooling contraction/expansion of the various parts. Although I've not seen any reports from Kia/Hyundai forums about loose sheet metal, etc. like on the Ford. Nor have I seen any issues with the Hyundai Santa Fe Sport vista roofs getting stuck (2016 Kia Sorento, yes, but not on the Santa Fe Sport).
  7. mjonis

    Invoice price

    IMO, look at Truecar pricing for your area with that EXACT config. If you're under or close to the "lowest" price paid, I personally consider that a good deal. Or you could come to the albany, NY area and pay full MSRP as nobody will deal with you.
  8. mjonis

    A-pillar blindspot - Thoughts?

    When I did my test drives, the A-pillar visibility was pretty bad, IMO. Especially in the parking garage where I have to park my car. Going "down" the parking levels, the A-pillar on the passenger side was pretty bad. Basically by the time you pulled out to see if someone was coming up, it would be too late. Only options at that point: a) when turning "right" to go down the levels, you would have to get all the way into the "oncoming" lane in order to get enough visibility (but then again if someone is coming up, now you're literally head on with them) Slow to a complete stop and inch forward to be fair, my old Chevy had *almost* (but not quite) as bad visibility. The Hyundai has (IMO) marginally (not a lot) better visibility. Sorento just as bad. Yes, the little window would've helped, IMO, but last time I saw one of those was on my sister's Lexus. I understand it's for crashes and stuff, but it's a bit annoying. Fortunately I just inch forward and piss off the people behind me in the garage as apparently everyone is in a hurry (both coming in and going out apparently). Although with the Hyundai, the surroundview camera can help a little, but obviously you have to be looking at it and not the "road". Not sure if the 180 degree front-view camera could help in that situation on the Ford.
  9. Sorry for the delay. I haven't had any creaking/noises, although in all the vehicles I test drove, if you opened the power shade (but left the sunroof closed), and there was a strong wind, you could hear the vinyl rails creak a little or hear them as the sun heated things up. The top-end Santa Fe Sport has a lot of nice leather, although the dash is some softer plastic, but the "grooving" can make it interesting to clean, although some 303 sprayed on a microfiber cloth (vs. spraying on the dash) works quite well. My roomate's 2014 SFS still is quiet and no creaking/noises. I will admit the Edge had nicer seats and a well-designed interior. Again, if the dealers in my area had been willing to deal, I would've taken the Ford, but I couldn't justify an $11-12k price differential. After a few months now I will say that the road noise is probably the biggest deficiency (but I knew this going on) on the Hyundai. But I could spend $2k on some professionally installed sound dampening and get something as quiet as the Ford in that case (well except for the acoustic glass). Again, about a 4db difference between the two.
  10. mjonis

    Well ain't that a pickle?

    Thanks! Maybe in a few years I might change my mind or something. Shoot me a PM with the dealer name. Ironically the two dealers (not the "we dont' play sticker games" one) called me back to see what decision I'd made. Dealer #1 (Latham Ford): I said, the best offer you gave me was like $41,635 WITH trade-in and I'd still have to spend $2,000 for the warranty, remote start, and parts to fix the seat backs. That's almost $14,000 more than my offer from Hyundai. (both offers didn't include tax, title, registration) "yeah, but it's not apples to apples". Me: You're right. The Ford is nicer, but not $14.5k nicer, IMO. I told them Orange Motors offer was $39,500 with trade-in but still the $2,000 more so total was like $41,500. I said that was the best offer I received. Dealer #2 - Orange Motors The guy really did try somewhat. Best price offer with a Factory Order and 10 week wait time (plus no guarantee they'd have the 0% for 72 months) was $39,500 plus the $2,000. So $41,500. Only $11,500 more than the Hyundai. Oh well, lessons learned. If you want top trim, and nobody stocks it, expect to pay MSRP and then they'll do the tradein. I even told both dealers I would've gone up to $35,500 (maybe $36k) with everything (if they had included the warranty and the smart phone remote start parts, I would've done the deal). But enjoying my new car now. I did tell dealer #2 if a used one shows up in the lot in 3 years (unlikely) to give me a ring.
  11. Amen! Yes, for *me* it's good. I have no regerts (that commercial). I will say I envy those of you that the Edge though. It's a VERY nice car. Just wish the dealers would've had stock and could've played "lets make a deal". THANK YOU ALL for answering all my questions. This is the best Edge forum out there!!!!
  12. Well, it is done. Unfortunately, while I liked the Ford the best, I could not justify spending almost $10k more vs. my #2 - the Hyundai Santa Fe Sport. I was willing to go up to even $4500 more, but because it's end of year, a nationwide search on Ford's dealer locator (the guy showed me) only yielded ONE Ford Edge Titanium, AWD, 2.0 L Ecboost, with 302A, Driver's Pkg, and Cold weather pkg. One in the "area". All the others were out of state (like Arizona and elsewhere). Because of that, the dealers have little room to deal. The "best" deal was 40k which included $4500 for my trade-in. But that still left me having to spend about $800 for extended warranty, another $350 for parts to fix the seat cooling issue, and another $500 or so for the remote start. At that point, the "total price" would've been about $41,750. Before tax, title, registration. Hyundai before tax, title registration: 30k. On the plus side, I got my Hyundai seat issue fixed. Apparently I did not realize that I sit very close to my steering wheel in my own car (because it doesn't have telescoping steering wheel). As such, I was sitting with the Hyundai steering wheel "out" too far, which made my legs stretch. I pushed the steering wheel in further and then I could move the seat up more and raise my legs. And the AC issue must've either been the model I test drove (it was still in plastic), but the model I bought (I did test drive today) worked fine. So I am a happy camper. If money was no object, I would've taken the Ford, but in my old age, I look at things a little more practically now. Thank you ALL for answering all my questions. The Ford is a fine vehicle, even if it's missing a lot of features of my Hyundai (and to be true, Hyundai's missing some features of the Ford). Who knows, maybe in 3 years I sell mine and buy a used 2016 Edge.
  13. mjonis

    Well ain't that a pickle?

    Yeah, they said they could still factory order, but it would only be $600 cheaper. Well unfortunately the only dealer WITH what I wanted (and it's been on the dealer's website for quite some time) doesn't do "sticker games". It's MSRP minus whatever factory rebates there are.
  14. Rats none of the Ford dealers have what I want. The best they can do is order from Arizona and sell it to me at MSRP. The best deal I got was $40k with trade in which is basically $4500 for trade in and a little less. Poop. That's like almost $83.5k more than the Hyundai. My only option is to take a color I'm not thrilled with and 20" tires. I wonder how easy it is to switch the tires out?
  15. Yeah, but not sure if the Canadian Kia DRL is actually the same light assembly, or if there's an additional row of lights. I will say it made a big difference for me. I'm used to my Chevy DRL "auto" lights, so I can pull into the parking garage or my own garage and actually be able to see something while the vehicle takes its sweet ass time switching to full headlights. On the Kia you get no lighting for about 30-45 seconds while it detects a low-light condition and turns on the headlights.