TourGuide

I have as well.  Thumbs up from me.  Mine has information about my ESP, etc.  Manual and wiring diagram - love it - pdf format, so it is a big file, but I love that it is searchable.

Michelins seem a good option for climates like Phoenix where you are worried most about things like performance in the heat, rain, and treadware.

Ford must get a deal on the Hankook tires (besides all the other reasons they may pick them), because my original Edge 16 Sport had those on it.  I didn't like them - they did not seem to do the job in the winter to my liking.  For my climate it is Nokian tires for me.  I usually run the WRG5 variety.  

The 2.0 is known to be hard on the trans fluid, so refreshing it on the early side seems like a good call.  I try to live by the motto - It is cheaper to replace the fluid than the part.  In this specific case - a lot cheaper.

I've owned a couple of these the motorola and the AAwireless variety.  In both cases, there are sometimes random glitches that occur - android auto failing to launch, etc.  In all cases correcting the random error is resolved with a restart of the device (sometimes both phone and dongle).  

Android auto has been going through multiple revisions of late, and my aawireless devices have been updated too.  I have had no luck pinpointing where the actual cause of these issues originates.  There have been too many variables to narrow things down before another change comes.  

My sense is that for now - some degree of this glitchy behavior is going to be there for the time being.  It generally works for me more than 90 percent of the time.

Couple interesting bits of trivia about this process with the cooler installed on my unit.  On my unit there is no drain plug - so - I am stuck with an extract and fill - as a jobber solution (cheaper) that doesn't follow the service procedure.  

OR

According to the OE instructions - I remove and replace the cooler unit with a new one (service kit alone is ~$300 bucks) - then your looking at fluid and labor to remove a frame cross member to even be able to remove the cooler in the first place.  I have no idea what the labor on that would be - I'm guessing expensive.  

All of this in order to do a proper spill and fill - because it doesn't have a drain plug.

2 hours ago, 1004ron said:

Please add your Model and Year to your profile signature, and location - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

I actually just went in and checked that - it is in my profile.  Maybe I need to add a custom signature or something.

The Haz, the myth, the legend - Thank you again for helping the community Haz!  

I actually own the ST with the 2.7 and I have the aux cooler strapped on my ptu.  

15 hours ago, enigma-2 said:

Thought that the PTU drain plug was added starting on the 2015 model year. Definitely there on the 2019.

 

Or was there models that still got the 1st gen PTUs?

I have no knowledge of which generation ptu ended up in my 2019, but it does ENRAGE me that FORD designed this GEAR BOX sans the drain plug to make it as difficult to service as possible.  In addition to the heat soak with the position - the straight tiny quantity of lube keeping this thing alive is one of the problems.  

Ford Engineering:  "Hey EVERYBODY!  We've got this great idea to build a gear box without a way to change the lubricant.  Isn't that a GREAT IDEA?!!"

Everybody:  Sound of crickets....

Does anyone know what the labor time would be to do a timing job on the 2019+ units?  While they are in there for such a job I would of course also have the oil pump belt replaced.  

13 hours ago, enigma-2 said:

True enough, but the Dorman model had a built-in heat shield, drain and fill plugs (no advantage for 2019+) and improved seals. 

My 2019 does not have a drain plug (Thanks FORD) it has the cooler unit in it.

The Amazon reviews cite several reports of seals being installed backwards on this unit causing leaks upon install.  As promising as this unit looks - the current run of product seems to have problems - and in the review chain on Amazon - there is no response from Dorman.  This kind of thing would create all sorts of chaos in the shop and for a customer.  

It also appears that for the 2019 and up - where the design changed - this product is not available.

Yeah - the service records - that is one concern - the other to me is - 2 owners and the second owner was in it only 16 months.  My spidey sense is activated on that.  People who get into a car usually don't get out of it in that length of time for no reason.

Yes - the collection of personal data is out of control and has been for some time.  The patterns are just more obvious now that you can see how they are being utilized.  This little news item did enrage me since the idea that my automobile could be participating in this practice is a new frontier.

I ran across this article on the blog of malwarebytes - it actually popped into my email as I have a subscription - about Ford filing a patent application for an IN VEHICLE eavesdropping system that will serve you targeted advertising.  Blog post linked here:

https://www.malwarebytes.com/blog/news/2024/09/ford-seeks-patent-for-conversation-based-advertising

I have to say - IF this system comes to Ford - I would never be interested in owning another one of their products ever again.

A number of people have reported here that auto stop will quit working in that range but the vehicle starts and runs fine.  When mine reached ~390 CCA I replaced the battery and all the function returned - including the controversial auto/start-stop.

10 hours ago, enigma-2 said:

reconfiguring .....

reconfiguring .....

reconfiguring .....

TURN RIGHT NOW ...

reconfiguring .....

wait, my bad, reconfiguring .....

 

 

ahhh, nope. no thanks. 

Oh come on now - you need to get to Albuquerque and you end up in Topika and you could call that an involuntary vacation!

On 8/8/2024 at 4:29 PM, 1004ron said:

It's not my observation that "many" have said the catch can will void warranty - the law is not on their side when it comes to proving the catch can caused whatever engine failure.

 

https://duckduckgo.com/?t=h_&hps=1&start=1&q=magnuson-moss+act&ia=web

I emptied my JL oil can yesterday after ~1500 miles and found it had about .25 to .5 ounce of oil in it.  I'm glad it is working and that I saved that from going into the intake but I am also pretty sure I can safely empty it every time the oil is changed.

Deleted.

Following on with this thread - I decided to try disabling the auto stop feature in the info center and it keeps reenabling the function after I have UNchecked it as an option in the menu.  Anyone else have this also happen?  

I would call this a zombie feature that you cannot get rid of.  This does not seem normal to me.

Your case seems unique to me.  I live in a climate that experiences below 70 degrees outside about half of the year and my start stop function does not care what the outside temperature is that I notice.  There is the usual limit of ~90 to 120 seconds before the engine starts again - but from what I have seen outside temperature does not seem to be much of a determiner of when it kicks in or not.  I will say that my 12v battery is essentially new.

I make it my practice to regularly question whatever the dealership service department wants to sell me.  Dealership service departments get REALLY excited about selling you services.  I flat out do NOT trust one of my local dealers (the one I purchased from incidentally).  I recently went in and had a 'complementary oil change' done (included in my purchase) and they told me - your pads are at 4 mm - which is getting close to needing replacement.  Next oil change - green condition on the brake pads - meaning plenty of wear material left.

I verify everything that outfit 'recommends' that I have done. 

Tires should be easy to visually see - if they are bald - as you say and have no tread - take them to an independent shop and ask for their evaluation.  For sure you will get better quality for cheaper  than what the dealer will want to charge buying the tires elsewhere.  

I second enigma's thought about the opener itself (the hardware) being the problem.  I have replaced 2 craftsman openers (about 10 years old) that had mainboard issues that prevented closing.  The problems were intermittent but replacing the units with liftmasters solved the issues.

On 11/14/2022 at 4:12 AM, enigma-2 said:

This particular problem can sometimes be caused by a blocked path between the sensors, dirty safety eyes, loose wires at the sensors or at the motor head, one or two bad sensors, bad motor control board, or one of the sensors has been bumped and is out of alignment. 

 

(In my case I had the same problem and finally traced it to one of the sensors had been bumped and no longer pointed directly at the other sensor. Door opens but refused to close as the sensors are there to monitor if anyone is in the doors path).

 

Besides checking the sensor placement,  try resetting the unit by unplugging the garage door opener for a few minutes and re-plugging the unit back into the outlet.

 

In addition, try cleaning the Sensors, look for any damaged wiring, check for corroded connection at the sensors. 
 

One other thing that can cause problems is the use of certain LED light bulbs in the opener. If your using LEDs, try removing them and see if they are the problem. (If so, replace them with LEDs specifically marked for use with garage door openers).

2 hours ago, Cerberus said:

i went with this one. Definite upgrade from OEM and for a few bucks cheaper

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07664V1JN

That one has the added bonus of the cow flatulence reducer blend built right in.  Good call.  👏